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Ticking motor remedies? I don't wanna pull this sucker out

Lotsa_Faith

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Jul 10, 2001
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Mckinney, Texas
A rebuild or swapping motors is the absolute last thing I wanna do...I am getting a loud tick on the left side of my 350. Hoping its just a stuck lifter or something like that, whawt should I do to try to remedy it?
 
replace the lifter, try adjusting it first obviously.

I am having this issue with mine as well, and what really sucks is this is a brand new motor.

I have fought with adjusting these things over and over, finally got all but one to behave, the one causing the headaches will quiet down during an idle adjusting session, but while idling, the ticking will slowly return, crank the nut a touch more, quiets down, still comes back, so it's obviously a bad lifter.

Guessing the machine shop that rebuilt the motor used cheaper brand lifters. Sucks too cause i had them install all rollers.

It's pretty noisy at first morning start-ups but quickly quiets down for the most part once the oil gets to it.
 
Thats a little indimidating to me, as I've done a motor swap before, but never touched the internals of a motor...I think I've heard of people using Marvel myster Oil before to help with ticking lifters before, I was thinking more something like that? Also, would sea foam help at all?
 
eh, i'm not one for fixes in a can, so i don't know, if theres a problem with something like a lifter, it's really not that big of a job, yes there is work involved with it, but it's not rocket science.

Depending on your climate, i HAVE switched to a thicker oil before, seemed to help with a noisy valvetrain, especially Quaker State oil, but it will eventually gum up the internals with crap over time.

Honestly, i'd try just removing the valve cover first, and finding the one that's ticking and crank on the rocker nut just a tad till it stops, see if that helps first, and pretty close to free if you don't ruin the valve cover gasket, and even still they are only a few bucks.

I would however look for some rocker arm clips to cover the oil holes in them, they are not usually all that bad for price and come in handy for adjusting valves when the motor is running, keeps the oil spray & mess down to almost no mess :D
 
Like he said just adjust them. As for the oil clips, just buy an 18 pack of your fav beer and use half the box to tuck in the head perimeter. Much easier than the clips and keeps you hydrated :D.
 
I have used marvel mystery oil on noisy lifters with pretty good success, BUT **** warning*** I only use it on engines that I have figured I would be rebuilding or replacing soon... I used it this past year on my '86 camaro, and the lifter noise went away in about 2 minutes, changed the oil a few days later, and it still hadn't come back a few months later when I sold the car. I have friends that swear by the stuff, but my fear has always been that it breaks a big chunk of crud loose, and really cause a problem. I have never been a big fan of the "solutions in a can" either, but earlier this year my mechanic who replaced my leaking intake manifold gasket, did a chemical motor flush on my '91 K5's 350 after he had to chisel and vacuum all the carbon and crap out of the lifter valley. 7 months later the motor still runs better than ever, and it really quieted down the valvetrain!!! I was actually a bit upset when he first told me what he had done, after hearing so many horror stories about guys using motor flushes and ruining motors.
 
Need to be careful with the chisling of the carbon crusty oil buildup in the lifter valleys, i have done this to a couple of different cars, and even though you think you get it all out, alot ends up heading down the passages and into the oil pan.

I have cleaned out valetrain areas with cleaners to break up buildup stuff and usually the stuff runs to the oil pan, knowing i need to change the oil anyways, i go through with this. Turns out there is more crud that falls down there than can be seen while cleaning.

One vehicle, my dads, i already knew i was pulling the oil pan because of the way the inside of the motor looked, i KNEW it had a bunch of crap in the pan already, and i'm glad i did, when i did, the oil pick-up tube/screen was caked with stuff, limiting oil pressure throughout the motor.

On the second one, it didn't LOOK that dirty, but after getting everything back together and firing up the motor, it ran fine, sounded fine for a bit, ran it up and down the street a few runs to make sure everything was working good, and then the oil pressure light started flickering, and eventually stayed on constantly.

Pulled it back in the garage, and the top end sounded like a Diesel engine, clattering and whatnot. So i knew right away what was going on, and the next day proceded to remove the oil pan on this Dodge Intrepid (was fun :rolleyes:) and again, sure enough, more crap that i could not see, fell into the oil pan and clogged up the pick-up tube/screen. Cleaned everything in the pan out and reinstalled everything and it sounded like a brand new engine.

Quieter than MY brand new 350 in my Burb,, :doah:

So i really don't have a problem or have an issue with removing build-up in an engine with cleaners and whatnot, but i just expect it to be part of the job if i'm going to do that kind of cleaning, to remove the oil pan and do a complete job of it. :D Then do a double oil change, cheap oil to flush out any other stuff and new filter, let it run for a day or so, then good oil with a good filter for final run.
 
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