Time to axle swap my truck but with what

[K85 Octane]

Doesn't look like a bad axle for your needs. Even has the flat top knuckle that can be machined for x-over in the future.

true, I'm going to take back my earlier statement. The flat top knuckle saves you time and money looking for one and the 4.11 gears are a good start with 35s. The axle just looks like hell, so you may end up dumping money for bearings, u joints, and ball joints.

I wonder if you could just steal the knuckle and gears from it, maybe the hubs/brakes if they are 8 lug. Otherwise there is really no strength difference between what you have and this axle. Just better gearing and crossover possibility.

 

[COCHEV]

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198556

 

[Pookster]

3/4 ton is probably enough

3/4 ton is probably your best ticket in terms of price/performance. You get piece of mind.

You get more with the 1 ton, but if your sticking with 35's or less, its overkill.

3/4 ton running gear has been well proven with H2's to be good for 35's and 37's, so I wouldnt worry too much for the rear.

As for the fronts, the 1/2 and 3/4 stuff is the same, sort of the outer hub for 8 lug.

And your front's are technically able to get you home even if you snap a shaft. Just unlock the hubs and use 2wd.

Its the rear that people worry about snapping, and without full floater capability, the axle shaft will slide out.

You could search for the mysterous unicorn of the 6 lug 3/4 axle. Then you wouldnt even need new wheels.

 

[6.2Blazer]

For the rear axle, definitely go ahead with the 14FF. They are cheap, easy to work on, have a large aftermarket following, and you will never have to worry about swapping in a beefier rear axle. I went from a rear 10-bolt to a mildy shaved 14FF with the same 35" tires on K5 that mostly was just a trail truck at the time. I did not notice any major difference on the trail in regards to ground clearance. I did go from a good limited slip (Tru-Trac) in the 10-bolt to a full locker in the 14FF that partially overshadowed the loss of ground clearance, but still I did not notice much difference. I wheeled this thing all the time and ran a lot of the same trails so had a good feeling for how it would do.

Not quite sure what to tell you about the front axle. I don't think you NEED a D60 front, but again you can always go larger tires in the future and not worry about swapping in axles. If it wasn't for the cross-over steering plan I would say just stick to an 8-lug 10-bolt for D44. I ran a limited slip 10-bolt with 35's for several years. Broke a couple front axle shaft u-joints but after installing some good Spicers and adjusting my driving style never had a problem for years (both u-joints broke while having one tire stuffed into a rut at full steering lock and giving it power).

In regards to the 6.2 pulling larger tires, I ran 13/38-16 Swampers with 4.10 gears to and from the trail for several years. The OD in the 700r4 was useless but 3rd/D was perfect and it had no problems cruising down the freeway at 65-70 mph.

 

[KevinL]

i compared the 10 bolt in the blazer to the AAM 11.5 in my duramax

Clearance was 8.5" vs 10.5" tire height is pretty close so I guess thats not too bad and the Corporate 14 might only be a inch or so less ground clearance because of the smaller ring gear vs the AAM.

I was not worried about the dana 60 clearance it was the 14 bolts. But 14 bolts are so plentiful and cheap there seems no reason to go with the SF version.

CUCV 1 ton axles seem to be the easiest to find. So I will probably buy a trailer first if I go to 4.56 gears

The main reason for an axle swap at this point is to lose the 3.08's

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I can say from experience with my M1008 that 6.2L + th400 + 4.56's + 35's = no freeway speeds.

Frankly in your situation I'd say stick with the 35's and find a set of 3/4 ton axles with 4.10's. 14FF or 14SF is up to you. You can find a 14SF 6 lug without a terribly large amount of work and folks will often sell half ton front axles for cheap even with 4.10's.
Now that's if you want to keep it on 35's and fitting in your garage.

Going to go bigger and give up some of the convenience? Then probably 1 tons would be your best bet. Half ton axles past 35's are just risky. Even with sedate wheeling.

 

[KevinL]

Yeah the garage thing is tough. My duramax already don't fit in the garage (too long) so I would have to park both outside which would block my wifes car in. Also right now I usually leave the top off 6 months of the year and don't have to worry about any rain or anything.

Ideally I would like 37's but it would just create too many issues at this point.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Sit down and make a realistic appraisal of what you are going to do with it and what you want to do.

My truck will never see bigger than 35's and that's a BIG maybe. I don't really wheel anymore. Two tracking at the farm at worst. Hence sticking with my 33's. From the 38's I had on my M1008 I learned that big tires are expensive and heavy and require a whole different amount of work than 33's. Also they're over kill for what I was doing. Try finding a decent used spare as well.

After you've considered what you're going to do then pull out the wallet and start spending money. Nothing sucks more than spending a bunch of money and ending up with stuff you didn't need.