CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Should i buy new oem stuff or build my own for almost the same price with heim joints?
What are the pros/cons of each?
What are the pros/cons of each?
CK5
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Time to replace my tie rod and drag link
- Thread starter CherryK5
- Start date
DO NOT use heim joints if it is a DD. Heim joints are single sheer and not nearly as strong as a TRE/DLE. I bought a HD drag link from ORD and a HD tie rod from WFO and both use TRE's.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Did you use cheap heim joints?
I keep bending those adjustment sleeves and killing my alignment on my tie rod..
A nice heim joint setup seems much stronger IMO.
well that's just it
you need it set up correctly to hold the heim on both ends, not just one.
An HD quality heim with some kind of boot or protection for it would be nice
but when it comes down to it, tierod ends are low maintenance, strong, and convenient at any autoparts store for replacement. Hence, good for DDers. Easy to find for trail fixes too.
you need it set up correctly to hold the heim on both ends, not just one.
An HD quality heim with some kind of boot or protection for it would be nice
but when it comes down to it, tierod ends are low maintenance, strong, and convenient at any autoparts store for replacement. Hence, good for DDers. Easy to find for trail fixes too.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
it isn't the ends that are my problem, its the weak spot in the tie rod, the adjustment sleeve. You barely bend one and your alignment is shot.
And convenience isn't in my vocab.
If i wanted something convenient i would drive a honda accord.
Not only that, i have one of those oddball tierods that's "4.10" only.
So they have to order them at the parts store anyways.
Silver84k5
1/2 ton status
ditch the sleeve and get a tie rod that is threaded, with a slit cut in it. then use a clamp... Then i sleeved my entire tie rod, and cut the slit in the outer sleeve... it shouldnt bend anymore.
I have never used a Heim joint because of the failure rate and being in single sheer they ARE NOT anywhere near as strong.
Ditch the factory tie rod that uses the adjusting sleeve in favor of a length of DOM tube that is threaded on each end (right hand on one end and left hand on the other so that you can adjust without having to remove either end) then use the proper TRE for your application. This is the STRONGEST method available.
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
My heim joints are double sheered...
But yeah, if you want to run heims get some double sheer arms and do high/crossover and a drag link that wont stop you from turning when drooped...
But yeah, if you want to run heims get some double sheer arms and do high/crossover and a drag link that wont stop you from turning when drooped...
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Or, you could build a tie rod and get threaded tre's as well... Tap the tie rod or use weld in bungs with jam nuts...
My heim joints are double sheered...
But yeah, if you want to run heims get some double sheer arms and do high/crossover and a drag link that wont stop you from turning when drooped...
Not many people take the effort to do that but even then a Heim joint wears out ALOT quicker than any TRE/DLE will.
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
I picked my heims up from a local fab shop that builds tube buggies to race the King of Hammers... I'm hoping they will last a decent amount of time, but with my set up a tre would never work...
He has options, he just needs to do some more research... He'll get it though...
Blazinaire
1/2 ton status
or you could do the same and use a jam nut instead of the slit/clamp route, just make sure that mofo is tight!
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Doing it. i never even thought of that. =]
Maybe because it was one of those things that was too obvious.
But i'll definitely just go that route. Sounds pretty tough.
Just make sure you use a jam nut to keep the TRE's from moving once you have the toe adjustment set.
Stock TRE's are single shear. The big difference is they are in a tapered bore in the knuckle to insure that they don't have any play in that portion of the system. If you drill a hole in the knuckle for a bolt (say, if you were going to heims) it will have a little slop that will get bigger and bigger as time goes on.
Also not true, depends on the size, material etc of the heim chosen. They could easily be stronger than the stock TRE.
The big reasons to stay away from Heims are that they wear out much faster than the stock TRE's and they aren't meant to be mounted in single shear which means either deal with steering that may not be tight (and will wear out the knuckle eventually) or make a tab on the knuckle to allow double shear.
I already knew all of that.
I still disagree that ANY heim mounted in single sheer is stronger than a TRE.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Well i might just double sheer it.
That sounds like one of those "do it while you have your **** apart" situations.
Unless it is a dedicated trail rig (and you carry spares) I would not suggest using heim joints. It's not like you can go to just any parts store or hardware store (not that I would ever buy a cheap heim from either) and buy a heim joint if/when one fails.
It's your rig though so do as you wish.
