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Tips and tricks for axle U-joint replacement

tRustyK5

tRustyK5

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So on one hand I'm real good at not busting these things on the trail, on the other hand when I do need to replace them it's hours of fuvking around.

So, tips, tricks, tools, etc...

How do you swap em out the easy way? What methods or tools work for you every time?

I currently have my shafts out, yokes look perfect, but the U-joints have been in there for quite a while. The half circle clips are out and weren't much of a problem...the cups just seem seized in the yokes.
 
I take em to work and use the 30 ton press. Support the ears very well so as not to bend them, and use some heat, then some penentrating oil (liquid wrench I like)
before putting the new ones in, take a brake cylinder hone, or wadded up emery cloth, chuck it in a drill and polish the surfaces where the caps will reside, it will help them go in much easier.
 
I use a vise and a big hammer. Quick but make sure your have at least a little aim with a hammer.
 
Taking cryptic U joints out I like to punch a hole in the cap with a torch. Gives the thing room to collapse on its self and break the interference fit thats clogged with all that rust. Just watch out that old ass grease likes to spit and pop and throw flames. Then I press them out.

Installation I just use a big vice and sockets. I dont use a press for installation. Personally I think its over kill and doesnt give you that "feel" that something isnt going together right. It can be a pain in the ass though, often wishing I had a third arm when doing it.
 
I have done them so many different ways over the years. Running in deep mud and water in the swamp, I sometimes had to change then two or three times during hunting season, and then again afterwards.

I have used presses, vices, hammers, even shot one with a .22 three times to break the cap free.......

If you are going to do more than just this one time, I suggest getting the correct tool.
My mechanic friend has one something like this, and I have seen him change them under the truck without ever even dropping the shaft.

I have always liked this one. Check out the manual in PDF under literature.

http://www.tigertool.com/product/20...4-81ae-7521-650f0d50e162&sortBy=DisplayOrder&

But, it is way too pricey for casual use.

Pretty much everybody makes one. OTC, SnapOn, Sears, even Harbor Freight.

Makes it a lot easier.
 
BTW, honing out the yoke is nice, and makes it a lot easier to put the caps back in. Just don't overdo it, or do it each time you change them.
Remove too much metal, and the caps will spin in the yoke.
 
If/when I get em out I'll give em a polish and a thin skim of anti-seize. Hopefully some stays in the bore and makes things easier next time.

Last set I did took hours, when the cross finally started to move I flipped it over to look and the stub of the cross had punched through the cap...I'm hoping for better this time.
 
huh, I glue mine in with green sleeve retaining locktight in the 4x along with full circle clips.
 
tRustyK5 said:
If/when I get em out I'll give em a polish and a thin skim of anti-seize. Hopefully some stays in the bore and makes things easier next time.

Last set I did took hours, when the cross finally started to move I flipped it over to look and the stub of the cross had punched through the cap...I'm hoping for better this time.
Click to expand...


Well, you can always try my .22 trick. Just be sure to wear eye protection, and stand back a ways.
That lead tends to splatter........

If the third shot had not moved it, I had a .223, and a .351 self loader in the wings, but did not really want to go there.........
 
tRustyK5 said:
If/when I get em out I'll give em a polish and a thin skim of anti-seize. Hopefully some stays in the bore and makes things easier next time.

Last set I did took hours, when the cross finally started to move I flipped it over to look and the stub of the cross had punched through the cap...I'm hoping for better this time.
Click to expand...

Hole in the cap will solve that.
 
Big fan of nothing on the caps when I reassemble unless its lock tight. One moves and its over.

I usually put one cap on the back of the vice, then carefully line up the shaft so its square, and slide the joint inside to keep the bearings in ( or add heavy wheel bearing grease). Tap axle down onto cap. turn over and inset cap retainer. Use a brass drift to set the cap past the axle so the retainer clip drops in.

Now the joint can be partially slid out the 1st cap and catch the bearings on the second. i usually always tap the axle onto the cap, not cap into axle.
 
in the near distane future i plan on doing a write up with pics .

going to try and show both clips and injection molded orignal .
 
I recently did the joints on these rusty ole gems...

20120925_180913.jpg



I found the easiest way at home with no press and a smaller vise not working was to put the axle on the ground, support the splined side with a 2X4. Then I just put a 36 mm socket under the yoke to support & pound the cap flush with the yoke first using the ball end of a ball peen hammer. Then I used a drift to hammer it all the way through. It was VERY stubborn from the start but once it started moving it was just a matter of beating the crap outta it!
 
After doing oh so many of these beastys i cut the cross with a grinder if I am home, they come out oh so easy after that. Then a little emery cloth on the bores to clean up the rust and full circle clips. I do use anti seize in mine it makes trail replacement much easier.

I have bent the ears on too many shafts unless they come super easy I cut em
 
While I often use the hammer an vice technique. When I get one that won't be undone I use my harbor frieght ball joint press the cheap universal one. Works on solid axles for ball joints but it shines when doing u joints I've done ever thing from newer toy stuff to. 1410/1480 joints never fails
 
I've used every method from hammers and two sockets,to a hydraulic press at work,usually they dont give much greif once you get the process down pat,the worst ones to do are the injection molded OEM ones that must be heated up to melt the nylon crap out of the grooves that retain the cups.....................................................................................................I've had flaming grease and nylon goop squirt out and scald me several times doing those...I like using a ball joint press that is just basically a big C-clamp to replace them,it makes it easier,but with all methods your wishing you had more hands than just two--its tricky to get the caps started without having the needles fall out or get jammed while your trying to assemble them--I use some thick sticky grease to help keep them in place..I must have replaced a few hundred U-joints at the parts stores machine shop in the past--just as many exhaust manifold stud replacements too,I hated drilling,tapping and trying to extract busted studs,its a suck job!..
 
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