Canadian78
Registered Member
I'm going to look at a 89 blazer tomorrow. What things should i look at that are usual problem areas.
CK5
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Tips for buying a 89 Blazer
- Thread starter Canadian78
- Start date
lectric80
3/4 ton status
The 700r4 trans will probably have been rebuilt at some point. Find out if it was rebuilt by a shop that you can contact. Find out if they used any upgrade parts on it, and what parts they used. 700r4's are notoriously bad to rebuild, which leaves many failing in a very short period of time after the rebuild.
It is new enough that I wouldn't expect a lot of rust issues, but those would be floors, rockers, and fenders most commonly.
Check for the SES light, not only to see if the computer is throwing any codes, but if the light even works. I have seen too many owners who pull that light rather than fix the problem, or when they simply can't find the root cause of the problem.
Those are the most common things I would check when considering something like this.
It is new enough that I wouldn't expect a lot of rust issues, but those would be floors, rockers, and fenders most commonly.
Check for the SES light, not only to see if the computer is throwing any codes, but if the light even works. I have seen too many owners who pull that light rather than fix the problem, or when they simply can't find the root cause of the problem.
Those are the most common things I would check when considering something like this.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
GM corrected a lot of the problems on the 700R4 after 1987 (IIRC) most 700R4's after 88 are fairly reliable.
Thunder
3/4 ton status
Yup. After 88 700r4 are a fairly stout tranny. 1989 has all the upgrades. Still its a good idea to check the trans fluid. Make sure it is not brown and burnt.
I have an 89 Blazer that I have owned 10 years. I really dont have many problems with it other than normal wear and tear and maint.
Some of The later fuel injected 350s have a tendency to blow head gaskets. So check the engine oil to make sure there is no water in it. Also Radiator coolant for signs of oil.
89s are a good year. They got a lot of improvements and upgrades to drive train eariler years did not have.
Better trans
Stronger NP 241 transfer case
30 spline axles.
I have an 89 Blazer that I have owned 10 years. I really dont have many problems with it other than normal wear and tear and maint.
Some of The later fuel injected 350s have a tendency to blow head gaskets. So check the engine oil to make sure there is no water in it. Also Radiator coolant for signs of oil.
89s are a good year. They got a lot of improvements and upgrades to drive train eariler years did not have.
Better trans
Stronger NP 241 transfer case
30 spline axles.
Canadian78
Registered Member
Thanks for the tips. here is the add. Seems like a alright deal. I cannot post the pics.
FOR SALE
'89 Chevy Blazer 4X4.
350 Lifted on
33" tires,
boat rack and removable canopy,converts to convertable, lots of fun in the summer!
some rust, needs U joints
Must sell $1000 obo.
FOR SALE
'89 Chevy Blazer 4X4.
350 Lifted on
33" tires,
boat rack and removable canopy,converts to convertable, lots of fun in the summer!
some rust, needs U joints
Must sell $1000 obo.
Where abouts are you in Canada?
I'd be very concerned about rust up here. Look very closely at all of the fenderwells, the inner fenders where they bolt to the tub, look under battery trays on the core support, look at the tailgate, and where it's hinges attach to the tub. Also look very closely at the rockers / rocker boxes, floor pans where your feet sit, and also along the windsheild frame.
Other than that, make sure that the PCM isn't throwing any codes, and that the transmission shifts well. Don't want any slipping out of it, and the lockup should be working. You can test it by lightly touching the brake pedal just enough to make the brake lights come on while travelling in O/D, the transmission should unlock and increase the engine speed 2 - 300 rpms.
Check the steering on the truck, make sure neither the steering links or the ball joints have any noticable slop in them while turning the truck's wheels sitting on flat ground. Make sure that the tires are in good shape, and if you get the chance, take a look the brakes as well.
When road testing it make sure you cold start the engine, put your hand on the side of the engine to make sure it isn't warm already, you want to listen for knocking / ticking when it first starts up. Driving it around feel for pulls / slop in the steering, and any vibrations.
Of course, you're bound to find some things wrong with it being such a cheap truck, but take everything in stride and make sure you know exactly what you are getting into with it before you shake anyone's hand. If you are looking for a DD, be a bit more stringent, if you are looking for an off-road only beater, you can probably put up with a couple more problems.
Just remember that it may be cheaper in the long run to buy a $5000 K5 vs a $1000 K5 after you factor in the cost of all the repairs it may need.
I'd be very concerned about rust up here. Look very closely at all of the fenderwells, the inner fenders where they bolt to the tub, look under battery trays on the core support, look at the tailgate, and where it's hinges attach to the tub. Also look very closely at the rockers / rocker boxes, floor pans where your feet sit, and also along the windsheild frame.
Other than that, make sure that the PCM isn't throwing any codes, and that the transmission shifts well. Don't want any slipping out of it, and the lockup should be working. You can test it by lightly touching the brake pedal just enough to make the brake lights come on while travelling in O/D, the transmission should unlock and increase the engine speed 2 - 300 rpms.
Check the steering on the truck, make sure neither the steering links or the ball joints have any noticable slop in them while turning the truck's wheels sitting on flat ground. Make sure that the tires are in good shape, and if you get the chance, take a look the brakes as well.
When road testing it make sure you cold start the engine, put your hand on the side of the engine to make sure it isn't warm already, you want to listen for knocking / ticking when it first starts up. Driving it around feel for pulls / slop in the steering, and any vibrations.
Of course, you're bound to find some things wrong with it being such a cheap truck, but take everything in stride and make sure you know exactly what you are getting into with it before you shake anyone's hand. If you are looking for a DD, be a bit more stringent, if you are looking for an off-road only beater, you can probably put up with a couple more problems.
Just remember that it may be cheaper in the long run to buy a $5000 K5 vs a $1000 K5 after you factor in the cost of all the repairs it may need.
Canadian78
Registered Member
Thanks a lot for the tips definitely some things i did not think about. its going to be more of a off road truck but will see drives on the road a couple times a week. I live about 40 mins out of Vancouver.
Good advice right there
Canadian78
Registered Member
thanks for all the tips guys. The truck was pretty rough. Had a big hole in the header tube and the interior was a mess and some frame rush. Not really what i was looking for. I already have a project dont need a other. He was really desperate to sell tho he said he would take $500 for it. I will just hold off a bit more and try to get a blazer after tax season
Dabba
1/2 ton status
yeah, eff that
Walk away! If he is willing to knock his asking price down by half, there is something seriously wrong with it!
Canadian78
Registered Member
yeah for sure. He lived in a trailer park and need to get rid of it the wife was nagging him. I might phone him in a week and see if he still has it and will take like 200.
