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To run a Carb or not?

I would like to see the U.S.A. in my chalet,that's all 48 states,all the highs and lows,so I need FI,but got a new create 5.7 so putting a factory fi would be a bitch,,so which is the best??just a 280hp 5.7 with no room. THANKS
What's your fuel delivery system set up for? GM TBI is much lower pressure than FI or even an aftermarket TBI system.
 
Following!this seems like a very interesting thread
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On a wheeling rig, it would be some sort of EFI for sure. I ran a carb on my K5 for lots of years on lots of trails; I made it work but it was far from ideal.

I'm running a Holley Sniper on a 454. It did have to go back to Holley for an ECU replacement after about 3000 miles. To their credit, they did it for free even though it was no longer under warranty. I've seen as much negatives as I have positives for both the Holley and FiTech systems. Some say they work great and others say they're junk. I think there are a ton of variables at play and certainly quality is one of them. I also think a lot of the issues are user/installer related. For example, when I first installed the Sniper I had a kinked fuel return line. It would have caused issues but luckily I had installed a fuel pressure gauge and saw there was a problem. Without that addition I might have been a long time figuring out what was wrong and likely might have decided the Sniper was the culprit.

In regards to my Holley Sniper and the benefits of hindsight I'm on the fence about if I'd go the same route again. Ultimately I've spent about the same money for the Sniper as the ProFlow costs upfront due to adding timing control distributor, but it was easier for me to spend the money in chunks rather than all at once. If the Sniper continues to operate without another ECU failure, then I won't have regrets. If it does fail I'm not really sure what I'll end up doing because it will mean starting all over again with a new EFI setup. That means a lot of money down the pipe and a lot more required to replace it.

I currently daily drive a 73 C10. It has a new Street Demon carburetor. It starts just fine at any temperature; it's been at or below zero in the mornings here a few times. It is a little finicky driving while it's still cold; if you get too quick on the pedal it'll die until it's run for a several minutes on the really cold mornings. It's kinda fun running a carb on an old truck, but I'm seriously considering doing an aftermarket EFI on it. Because it's a daily driver, I'd like to get better fuel mileage. I also notice my 454 with the Sniper doesn't have stinky exhaust like the carb'd C10 even though neither one has a catalytic converter - it's thanks to the O2 sensor in the Sniper EFI.

I still have the factory carb on my 66 C20. It has a manual choke but still starts up fine in the cold. This truck only gets driven once or twice a month typically. I don't plan to eliminate the carb anytime soon.

My conclusion would be that I would recommend EFI on a trail rig and a daily driver type vehicle. If it's an occasional driver that just gets driven on the street for "special" occasions or just when you feel like it, a carb might be just fine. Make sure it's in good operating condition and also make sure the same is true of the ignition system.

As for specific recommendations for EFI, as you can see, there's an opinion for just about every option and ultimately you'll just have to pick one that gives you that warm fuzzy feeling.
 
I figure for the time being I’m going to run the carb until everything blows up. I may or may not run it as hard as possible to help move this swap along. I’ve done too much on this truck over the last year to just start over.

I know you can run the TH350 behind an LS, but if I’m going to go LS I might as well do the entire drive train. Engine, tranny, Tcase, probably will need newdrive lines as well and exhaust, fuel delivery.

If I can find someone who can plop an LS in and keep the majority of what I’ve done I may consider that. With that said, switching to a Holley or Fitech efi/TBI type of fuel systems would probably be a waste of funds for what appears now is my ultimate goal of going LS or Pro flo.

I’m fairly convinced LS is the way to go. And while the PRO FLo is expensive, it sure isn’t LS swap expensive. So I need to debate that and figure it out.
 
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Look up goat rope garage on YouTube. He puts out awesome videos about the HP tuners platform. They greatly helped me get going and confident in tuning.
I love his channel, I wish I found it sooner.
I bought the HP Academy books and while they are great in giving you a step by step guide, they lack in explaining the theory behind what you're doing. I filled in the gap with forums and YouTube videos.
 
Does the Pro Flo need to have new fuel delivery from the tank? I assume a new electric pump will need to replace the mechanical one. Do you need to drop the tank and install a new fuel sending unit?
 
Does the Pro Flo need to have new fuel delivery from the tank? I assume a new electric pump will need to replace the mechanical one. Do you need to drop the tank and install a new fuel sending unit?
All the injection systems need high pressure, a pump and a return

you can use a frame pump, most prefer the in tank
 
Does the Pro Flo need to have new fuel delivery from the tank? I assume a new electric pump will need to replace the mechanical one. Do you need to drop the tank and install a new fuel sending unit?

yes, broflow and just about every other EFI system (including "LS" engines) require a new fuel system.
 
“Broflo” is a far better name and where edlebrock dropped the ball.

I too am a fan of installing “bro” whenever possible, for people or objects. Though I use”brother” far more for people.
 
get a efi tank for 1987 truck or 1987-1991 blazer suburban crew cab and swap the sender to the same and use a acdelco ep381 pump on the tbi sender and its plug and play .

thats how my pro flo 4 is fed . i did custom late model plastic efi lines for the higher psi rated system but it all works just fine .

pic all you want on the name until you install and run it .
 
We’ve determined the ep381 isn’t to spec for these, actually need a 255LPH pump
 
spec for what? broflow?
Actually any of the 43psi or higher units. I think that’s because the manufacturers are over stating the need so as to CYA

I ran mine on a 241 for 6 months

:dunno:
 
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