Not a bad idea, hydro power is amazing and easier to control, I'll have to look into controls and a motor! Would you look into a hydro style winch? Or run a pto winch with hydro motor? (I may be overcomplicating things...)
A direct drive hydraulic winch would not be strong enough unless you went with a
big hydraulic motor.
Post 10 of this thread as some links to info about my winch.
coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247677
I would go with something like I have. Its a regular PTO winch with a hydraulic motor.
If you look at the pics on the other thread I mentioned earlier, you will see that the motor is bolted directly to the winch.
Instead of a PTO winch with a motor added, its a PTO winch with a hydraulic option.
Instead of a keyed shaft for an input, it has a hollow shaft that the motor fits into.
As I mentioned in that thread, I ordered it with an 8ci motor. At the time, you could get one with a 10/5ci motor which was shifted hydraulically.
You would use the 5 for winding up the cable at higher speed, and the 10 for pulling with lower pressure than I run with the 8.
The big PTO that was mounted in the old Chevy, worked pretty good considering.
It was mounted right behind the cab with the cable gong straight down to a pulley.
Then it went forward out the front bumper. I still have the winch, it was the one on my older truck.
It would shift to freewheel, but he almost never did. To do so, he had to reach in the back, lift the wooden box up that covered the winch and shift the lever.
Instead, the PTO unit had a forward and reverse. So, he just powered the cable in and out.
Over several years, the main pulley got bent somehow, and the cable rubbed on the frame crossmember and almost cut it in two.
Plus one of the guide pulleys got crimped down on a stump and the cable would not pay out.
But, for the most part, it worked OK.
My hydraulic winch has a simple forward and reverse hydraulic valve with an open center.
I don't think it is a motoring valve. It should be of course, but I like for the outputs to be closed when in neutral so that the motor is locked.
The winch has a brake on it, but I like the hydraulic lock also.
Of course, the pump is returned to the tank in neutral, only the lines to the motor are blocked.
Since it is a motor, I should be using a motoring valve which leaves the two motor lines open when it neutral so as to reduce the chance of damage to the motor caused by the sudden blockage of the lines.
But, that motor is under a good load even when not pulling, so it does not coast much at all.
The valve originally was mounted on the tank under the toolbox and was supposed to be controlled by a cable like a big choke.
But, it was too hard to work for a regular cable. I intended to hook up a big shifter type cable, but wound up mounting the valve under the edge of the floorboard on my side.
I can just reach down between the seat and the door, and shift between forward, neutral, and reverse on the fly.
A cool setup would be a dual spool winch like some wreckers have with the gearbox in the middle with a dog clutch for each spool.
Then it could be mounted behind the cab, with the two cables going down through the bed.
One could go forward, and the other backward.