To those with 52's,overload, zero rate, and crossover

[plyr2k]

How does your steering clear? I understand this may only be a GMT400 thing, but my drag link is really close to my spring plate.

If you notice, the draglink is in the rear hole of my cross over arm. If its in the front one, i cant turn all the way and i dont like all the stress at lock on the steering box. Plus, then the draglink hits the spring.

The second hole on the arm measures over 7" from the center of the kingpin. I know without the zero rate it will bring the plate down, allowing the draglink to possibly go over the plate.

It isnt as close at the pic portrays. It only hits with the tires at lock and the right front tire stuffed.

 

[cybrfire]

You can clearance our spring plates without taking away from the strength much at all. Sounds like its just barely making contact.

 

[xenomarine]

You can clearance our spring plates without taking away from the strength much at all. Sounds like its just barely making contact.

I ended up clearancing mine for high steer, when I had new 8" springs. I would just do that. I took a couple leaves out and that evened it out and made my grinding unnecessary.

 

[cybrfire]

It's a combinational thing. Tall enough leaf packs, axle slid forward and what have you. Those things combine to intrude on the spring plate. For most it will never be a problem.

Our plates are taller than alot of our competitors, but incredibly rigid as well. We've used 3/8" thick and 1/2" thick flat steel and find that they bend quite a bit when you torque down the ubolts.

Taking off the top of the "45" won't hurt the strength of the plate. It's a little bit of an inconvenience. Not a huge thing in the grand scheme of a build.

 

[-stew-]

Why overloads on the front?

 

[K85 Octane]

Why overloads on the front?

probably so bump stops are needed, height too, either way removing them wont help the problem

 

[yellowK20]

Why overloads on the front?

Factory Overloads, and there gonna be needed on this heavy pig

 

[plyr2k]

It's a combinational thing. Tall enough leaf packs, axle slid forward and what have you. Those things combine to intrude on the spring plate. For most it will never be a problem.

Our plates are taller than alot of our competitors, but incredibly rigid as well. We've used 3/8" thick and 1/2" thick flat steel and find that they bend quite a bit when you torque down the ubolts.

Taking off the top of the "45" won't hurt the strength of the plate. It's a little bit of an inconvenience. Not a huge thing in the grand scheme of a build.

I was looking at taking the plate off, notching it, and bending the 45 at a 90 so the rigidity remains.

probably so bump stops are needed, height too, either way removing them wont help the problem

Bump stops will still be needed, and it would help because it would bring the axle, and steering arm, up. Possibly allowing the dragline to go over the spring plate.

Factory Overloads, and there gonna be needed on this heavy pig

You love it Gus. Don't lie. It's light as a Suzuki.

 

[yellowK20]

I will love when its on the strap behind my mighty 6.2 liters of raw horsepower!!!

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

What pitman arm do you have and how long is it from center of hole to center of hole?

I don't know for sure what tie rod ends you're using but it looks like there is very little thread engaged.

 

[cybrfire]

I was looking at taking the plate off, notching it, and bending the 45 at a 90 so the rigidity remains.

Ya know, I think I did that to Drey's spring plates on his blue truck. Don't know if he's still got it even. It'll work though.

 

[yellowK20]

What pitman arm do you have and how long is it from center of hole to center of hole?

I don't know for sure what tie rod ends you're using but it looks like there is very little thread engaged.

It is a Balistic fab kit I bought a few years ago, it used GM 1-ton TRE's but had a ****-load of thread on them Like 3-1/2 4" there is probably 1-1/2" of thread inside IIRC