Tom Woods versus HAD

[79k20350]

1310 are what came stock...quote]

from what both guys told me, the joint used in a stock cv is a 3R something.
does price and time have any factor here?

anybody have anything good to say about Tom Woods. I have seen their shafts in person on several rigs that run through my friend shop. I have never seen what type of quality comes out of HAD.

Then im sure thats what it is... As far as i knew it was comparable to a 1310

 

[koldsimer]

I bought my super bling driveshaft from Jesse at HAD. One of the things I really liked are that he requests all measurements to ensure the shaft will perform properly. The product quality and service are excellent. I have also ordered from Tom Woods- just a superflex joint- but he was always very friendly and more than helpful. He also let me exchange my u-joint for a 1350 series when I realized that's what I was gonna have to use. No questions asked, he just sent me the new one as soon as he received my 1310. Both good guys. I don't think you could go wrong with either.

 

[4X4HIGH]

No matter what you do you're gonna get the shaft.

 

[drivelineman]

He did talk to me today- I was irritated Because Dana spicer screwed my stock order up- I should not have even answered the phone until my head was on straight- I appoligize for the disgruntled air on the phone - I was really suprised your running 44" tires and 1310- I do after all hate 3r c/v's -Jesse

 

[4X4HIGH]

Look at that, right from the horses mouth. An apology for his "disgruntled air" on the phone. How many other vendors would do that? Jesee is the man.

 

[gmc4cw]

awesome, the man himself. sorry if my original post seemed biased against you, I sell GMC trucks and get my a$$ handed to me on a daily basis by customers, so I know how it feels to have some jackass start asking you dumb questions when you day is already bad.

That being said. run us through the differences between the flex on a 1310 and 1350 setup. I have snapped axle shafts in a dana 44, not yet my D60. I figure a axle shaft will go before a driveshaft due to the difference in torque values and shock load. am I correct?

 

[Greg72]

I got my rear driveline from Jesse about 1 week before BlazerBash '02.

It was serious "thrash" time for my rig, and time was slipping away to get all the parts back together and under my truck. Fortunately, Jesse made MY emergency HIS emergency and got my driveline built and shipped in a hurry.... I'm sure he had to put some other stuff aside to hit my deadline, and his willingness to help has left a permanent impression on me.

My next driveline will be an HAD....and the next one after that.....and so on.

 

[drivelineman]

With 1310 you will get around 28-34 degree's depending on who does the clearancing on the c/v with a 2" tube - Now my take on this is if your running a 5:13 ring you will most likley brake a wheel joint first- unless your locked up in the front- that distributes the torque to both wheels- if you have a 4:56 or 4:88 it will likely be the 1310 joint or the slip yoke that holds the joint that fails- the 1350 c/v will go to 32 degree's -1310 non c/v 26 degree's at the axle 1350 20 degree's and 1410 28 degree's - these are angles on stock style yokes- now aprox torque to break a joint -1310 seems to be around 2000-3000 -1350 3000-4000 range and 1410 4000-5500 - this is the short term duration- I know these #'s because of the send car 1/2 shafts were working with and the torque limiters- Hope this helps- Sorry for my bold statments about 3r- I actually have 1 c/v kit that's been on the shelf for 4 years now- Its real real dusty-Jess

 

[gmc4cw]

so does everything out of your shop have grinding done on it to increase clearance? what effect doe that have on the life of the joints? does the fact that the joints are so close together have any effect on the torque it takes to break them. I am running a 350 making 400 lb/ft through a 700R4/208 into 4.56 gears. obviously the engine does not make 400 off idle. thats about an average. max is 440 at 2800 RPM. the only time the engine gets reved is in MUD where there isn't that much traction to braek stuff. every break I have had was on rocks, go figure.

 

[CDA 455]

Excellent thread !!

I'm in need of new drive shafts and was thinking of similar things as well.

DUMB QUESTION:

Besides length, what other questions need to be answered to get the proper drive shafts for me?

My 'To do list' below has my equipment I'll be putting in my truck.

 

[muddermilitia]

Excellent thread !!


My 'To do list' below has my equipment I'll be putting in my truck.

Dear Gawd!!! that truck is gonna be bad a$$!!

 

[MaxPF]

With 1310 you will get around 28-34 degree's depending on who does the clearancing on the c/v with a 2" tube - Now my take on this is if your running a 5:13 ring you will most likley brake a wheel joint first- unless your locked up in the front- that distributes the torque to both wheels- if you have a 4:56 or 4:88 it will likely be the 1310 joint or the slip yoke that holds the joint that fails- the 1350 c/v will go to 32 degree's -1310 non c/v 26 degree's at the axle 1350 20 degree's and 1410 28 degree's - these are angles on stock style yokes- now aprox torque to break a joint -1310 seems to be around 2000-3000 -1350 3000-4000 range and 1410 4000-5500 - this is the short term duration- I know these #'s because of the send car 1/2 shafts were working with and the torque limiters- Hope this helps- Sorry for my bold statments about 3r- I actually have 1 c/v kit that's been on the shelf for 4 years now- Its real real dusty-Jess

What's so bad about the 3R/S44 other than it's size (roughly the same as a 1330, IIRC)? Also, any idea on how much torque it takes to break a Toyota u-joint?

 

[CDA 455]

Dear Gawd!!! that truck is gonna be bad a$$!!

...And heavy as an M.F.er !!

 

[bigjbear]

I don't think you are going to see Tom Woods come on here and answer posts. At least I don't ever remember him doing it.

That said, I have a Tom Woods shaft on the front of my '80. He was great to deal with, (even if he does sound like Ben Stein on the phone.) I had that shaft made before I ever heard of HAD, about six or seven years ago. It has held up fine w/o any issues. When I broke my rear lock right I pulled the rear shaft and drove the two hours home from Tellico on my T/W front shaft. I also drove it to work for a few days like that, too. I a very happy customer. The rear shaft-which I had made locally- is another story.

 

[gotmud77]

I have had great dealings with tom woods. I have bought two shafts from them and will be ordering a new front shaft for my buggy. I have spoken with Josh both times and he has always led me in the right direction. They built me a 1350 rear shaft and a 1310 front shaft. I needed the travel in the front and the size in the rear. I also run the tom woods ebrake kit. Very nice and the price cant be beat. I have had very limited dealings with HAD. I have bought some stuff from him but never a shaft. With the shipping on the woods shafts it will be all of 5 days to get to you. I live near state college and it took mine 6-7 days if I remember correctly but it was over a holiday weekend when I ordered.

 

[pauly383]

What's so bad about the 3R/S44 other than it's size (roughly the same as a 1330, IIRC)? Also, any idea on how much torque it takes to break a Toyota u-joint?

I broke my s44/3r CV shaft . But it was not the CV or the BF ( solid ) u-joints that broke . I broke one single solitary greasable u-joint . If I had not broke the greasable joint , I would not of lost the Cv ball socket on the slip yoke .

I shouldn't of used the greasable u-joint , but it was all I had left in the garage when I re-jointed my shaft about a 1.5 years ago .

I also broke a weld onthe 12 bolt , and broke some teeth on the front ring gear . To be fair I don't know when I broke the other stuff .

But I did not break a single s44/3r solid BF u-joint in the CV , nor did I break my 1310 at the pinion end .

As for size , 1330 is same outer cap diameter as 1310 (verified ) and wider than 1310 . S44 is much larger outer diameter cap ( verified ) closer to 1350 sized caps .

 

[drivelineman]

chas- We do clearance or machine castings in many of our applications- And usually don't charge more for that- Any time you run a u joint through more angle life will be less- It sounds to me like your into the mud mainly and if your not catching air at 5000 rpm you will most of the time get a away with that- but you say you rock crawl a little- ? that's what i 'm concerned about - if its just mud well put a pto shaft in there - if its a little of both- then don't get mad if the pto shaft breaks - Jess

 

[drivelineman]

To Do List:
Chevy Ram Jet 502
Rockwell 2.5 Ton Axles, Dual rear, 2in 47 Spline Chromoly Axle-Tubes, ARB front; Spool rear
Full Hydro Steering
Military Split-Rims and Grave-Digger Tires
KluneV Reduction Gear
Highly Modified 4L80(nonE) 900ft/lb Torque-Rated
JB Conversions NP205
8 Point Roll Cage
Vintage Air A/C Heater System
I like the to do list- Your axles are going to help allot- I assume your going to run lock outs? The front driveline would have been an issue if you did not have klune -have you bought the klune and or jb 205 yet? we are a dealer for both- I would say 1410 where ever it fits- and a c/v rear if angles are tight- Nice wet up- Jess

 

[drivelineman]

the 3r c/v is famous for a shiatty ball and socket- at 20 degree's the ball pulles the lip of the seal off and leaks- and the 3 part c/v puks are not a good form fit past 20 either- thus they suck on a lifted rig- the joints are pretty strong the internals are garbage- but hey there cheap - Jess

 

[drivelineman]

its good to some storys about Tom - He Is a stand up guy -He's my main competitor -But He's doing things that work for him or he would not be in buisiness - On the flip side we have very different ways of thinking- Jess