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Ton axles? Which way....

U-711ipmc

1/2 ton status
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Boyd, TEXAS
OK...Need some advice. I'm in the market for one ton axles to put under my overland 'burb I'm building up. I am in the process of accumilating a 203/205 doubler and will be running behind a sm465. I will be running H1 wheels and tires so 37", so they match my M1101 trailer. I want DRW front axle since backspacing on stock wheels. For gearing I want 4.56 gears.

My question is....For what I want DRW and 4.56 should I buy a 1-ton c&c truck, thats been stripped of body parts, that has 4.10 gears and DRW and sell the 14 bolt rear thats to narrow ($1000 is what owner is at now)? Or find a CUCV axle with a 4.56 and convert it to DRW? As these get installed B-52's and rear flip will be installed. CUCV tons are not the easiest to come by here in North Texas....they normally go pretty quick, not impossible.

Thanks.
 
Kinda depends- do you want to run a front locker???
If no- go CUCV since it already has the right gears and finding someone that will trade DRW hubs for SRW will likely be easy.
If yes- go with the DRW axle since you'll be able to change the gearing in it when you install the locker.
There is a third option- some CUCVs came with a Trac-lock limited slip already installed in the front axle. (I want to say they were the ones that came with 205 transfer cases as well, maybe M-1028s??? Someone with more CUCV knowledge can correct me on this)

Now, that is for front axle BUT, I will say, for the axle package:
CUCV sounds like the easiest way to go since it has the gearing you want (4.56) the Detroit locker rear, MAYBE a Trac-lock front, and only lacks DRW front hubs, and some rear spacers.

If you do get the $1000 truck for its DRW front axle, I would suggest picking up a van width 14 bolt full floater rear axle. Yes, they are harder to find (at east in my experience) BUT, they are 1.5" longer per side than a normal SRW 14 bolt. (so 3" wider overall) So, that extra width will help in matching to your DRW front! (won't have to run as wide of rear spacers)

Does that $1000 truck have any other usable parts for you???
 
I may have a line on a van 14 bolt in the 300$ range that I've been looking at. And may jusy go that route since a selectable locker is what I'm wanting to go with but not in the budget at this time. DRW and 4.10s for now. Until the budget allows gears and locker.

The cab and chassis truck doesn't offer me much as far as what I need beyond the axle, but selling other parts and scrapping the rest like the flat bed and what not could help fund the budget!!!
 
I would think a DRW axle could be found cheaper than $1000, then you would have to deal with parting and scrapping the donor truck.
 
few points from me .

cucv = lower miles / cleaner axles over rusty / 4.56 already . . . .

civilian = hard to find 4.56 / prob rusty housings if it scares you / lot more miles and possible hidden damage .

yes full width van srw full floater = WIDE . unless you find dana70hd from a drw pickup with the fender flares on rear and swap to srw hubs .

if you swap srw hubs for drw make sure you make out as there worth more than drw hubs . hell I got 3 sets in my stash now and cant hardly give them away .

why 4.56 if doing 203/205 ? why not save the coin and just go 4.10 and be done .

have you played with this yet http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html most usefull tool . . . :whistle:
 
OK...Need some advice. I'm in the market for one ton axles to put under my overland 'burb I'm building up. I am in the process of accumilating a 203/205 doubler and will be running behind a sm465. I will be running H1 wheels and tires so 37", so they match my M1101 trailer. I want DRW front axle since backspacing on stock wheels. For gearing I want 4.56 gears.

My question is....For what I want DRW and 4.56 should I buy a 1-ton c&c truck, thats been stripped of body parts, that has 4.10 gears and DRW and sell the 14 bolt rear thats to narrow ($1000 is what owner is at now)? Or find a CUCV axle with a 4.56 and convert it to DRW? As these get installed B-52's and rear flip will be installed. CUCV tons are not the easiest to come by here in North Texas....they normally go pretty quick, not impossible.

Thanks.

I have a bunch of very low milage CUCV axles about 200 miles from you. I also have dual wheel hubs. I would be willing to meet you halfway as well.
 
If you use a DRW D60 front, get a DRW D70HD for the rear as the width will be almost the same as the 60.
 
If you use a DRW D60 front, get a DRW D70HD for the rear as the width will be almost the same as the 60.



So what do I need to look for to find the 70HD? I tried looking it up but couldn't find a definitive model to look for.
 
So what do I need to look for to find the 70HD? I tried looking it up but couldn't find a definitive model to look for.

Any 73-87(91) square body dually pick up ORIGINALLY WITH A BED, not a cab & chassis.
 
If you bought that truck, and a CUCV set you could probably come out ahead selling the 14b and converting the dually front to single wheel and selling that. Or at least you'd be further ahead than just buying parts to make the civvy axle 4.56 etc.


Hell theres probably a lot of people that would gladly straight trade you the dually hubs for singles off a cucv axle also.
 
So what do I need to look for to find the 70HD? I tried looking it up but couldn't find a definitive model to look for.

Any 73-87(91) square body dually pick up ORIGINALLY WITH A BED, not a cab & chassis.

Yep, ANY truck like John mentioned. You can even use them from 2wd's also. Just like mentioned, it HAS to be the bed with the wide fiberglass fenders protruding out.

One way to identify these rears is the cover looks like a D60 and you can also measure the tubes which are 4" diameters.
 
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