CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Torque converter lockup

This truck has exactly that, ford starter solenoid relay, for the override. So I guess it could possibly be the same then. The batteries seem fine and the starter turns over fast, but this 20-30 seconds start time is getting frustrating. I will try to check the plugs either tonight or in the morning. Where is the ford starter solenoid usually setup, im assuming mine would be at the same place as yours?
 
Whoever did the conversion on my Suburban put the ford solenoid right on the firewall in the center right behind the air cleaner...but it could be mounted in a lot of other places--they probably put it there because the original glow plug harness would reach there..on this truck the oem glow plug relay would be mounted in the center on the drivers side fender..

The oem relay used a ground wire (via the controller) to activate it,the ford solenoid needs a 12V hot source to activate it..
I suspect the ford solenoid on my Burb got all corroded inside,and was not allowing much amperage to flow to the glow plugs..
 
This truck has exactly that, ford starter solenoid relay, for the override. So I guess it could possibly be the same then. The batteries seem fine and the starter turns over fast, but this 20-30 seconds start time is getting frustrating. I will try to check the plugs either tonight or in the morning. Where is the ford starter solenoid usually setup, im assuming mine would be at the same place as yours?

There's no reason that a ford solenoid can't do a fine job in this role. The corrosion inside the relay (of any type) is likely the problem if the relay is flipping but not getting power to the plugs.

Start with the plugs. One at a time, unplug each one and test it. Use an ohmmeter if you have one (And buy one if you don't!). The resistance between the spade lug and ground should be a small number of ohms. Both my Duraterms and my 60G plugs ran 0.7 ohms when they were new (different manufacturers can have different values). Higher resistance values will yield lower heat output amounts (Ohm's law). Burned-out plugs will appear "open" (infinite resistance).

When flipping the solenoid the voltmeter should dip noticeably (if you are actually drawing 8 plugs' worth of power). If you find that the plugs are all good and you still can't get the voltmeter to drop, you probably have a corroded connector somewhere in that circuit. The relay is a likely candidate for corrosion. Again, an ohmmeter will give you definitive answers, but you can also try jumping it like Dieselforme suggested. If the relay is not passing current well enough you will see a large amount of current in your jumper wire.
 
Some people wire up the TCC like this to give an "extra" gear (usually about a 200-300 rpm difference) between gears when they do alot of towing. DO NOT try to start off with the clutch locked, you want to be moving already before you lock the convertor. In your case I wouldn't worry about locking the convertor until you're in 4th gear at hiway speeds.
 
maybe its starting only on one head. theres a plug on drivers side inner fender where both left and right head glow plug wires meet. could be a bad connection .maybe not on every year. what year your truck. does it smoke only on one side!
 
The early/mid 80's units can't lock up in the lower gears, based on a lock-up valve in the valve body. It wasn't until they did away with this in the TBI trucks that you could actually lock in 1st gear and very low speeds.
 
I put the dura terms in a couple of years ago...I'd bet less than 1k miles on them.
Ford solenoid replaced the glow controller, and in the same spot.
 
I put the dura terms in a couple of years ago...I'd bet less than 1k miles on them.
Ford solenoid replaced the glow controller, and in the same spot.

I forgot this truck came from a CK5 member. :rolleyes:

Does your knowledge of this truck give you any ideas about what's going on? :dunno:
 
I just found out about the build thread and that the previous owner is on this site. Makes it much more easier. I've got so many questions!
 
I just found out about the build thread and that the previous owner is on this site. Makes it much more easier. I've got so many questions!


It looks like both of the recent POs are on here. That is a blessing indeed. We can give you general info, but they can tell you exactly what has been modified and why. :thumb:
 
Yeah I just sent a loooooong message to the guy who built the truck. And I love the blazer and am definitely glad I decided to get another. I just need to learn a little more about what's been done and why and fix a couple things.
 
It looks like both of the recent POs are on here. That is a blessing indeed. We can give you general info, but they can tell you exactly what has been modified and why. :thumb:

Its been a while, but here to help as much as I can!

We'll get it figured out, and get her runnin' right again :waytogo:


goochieman, you're more than welcome to add to the build page here:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294307&page=2
or even start a new one :)
 
Top Bottom