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towing with lift

beater_k20

beater_k20

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anybody here tow with 6" of lift and 35s? im thinking of SFAing my 91 K1500, and going with 6" of lift, 35s, a 4L80 and 4.56s. i'd also like to use it as a tow rig for my K30. anybody got any experiences of recomendations for this?
 
Oh boy, don't let Timmay see this one. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

Honestly though, I would get yourself a 2500HD or 3500 truck that will have the 4L80E (or 5 speed) and better suspension for the load you will have. Your K1500 would be barely OK with proper trailer and equipment, but I wouldn't do it with a lift.
 
well, there lies the problem. i dont want to buy a new truck. i like the one i have, and i dont like the payments that a new one would cost. i'd prefer to do it a little at a time. and built the way i want it, not the way some engineer says that will be the best compromise of a bunch of different factors. also, the 10 bolt will be replaced with a 14FF, and 4.56s gears in both axles. what type of lift for the rear would handle such a task?
 
You don't have to buy a new truck just one that's better suited to towing than your current setup. I wouldn't tow with a lifted rig on a regular basis, just once in a blue moon. Tow a K30 with the setup you mentioned just once and you'll be looking at every classified ad in the country searchin for a dually... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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You don't have to buy a new truck just one that's better suited to towing than your current setup.

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truck that isnt my K1500 = new truck. my "current setup" is all up for change, the trans, the transfer case (obviously), and the 10 bolt out back is as good as gone. i just want to build off of what i already have. i have a good running engine, a decent body, and the title is 100% mine, i dont owe a dime on it. i know its not optimal the way it sits, and i'm looking for advice to make it do what i want to do with it.
 
i guess i should probably add that i wont be doing any "regular" towing with it. my K30 maybe once a month, and possibly a car now and then.
 
I tow with my K5 almost every weekend. I pull a 27ft. boat with no problems at all. It only as a 4" lift with 35" tires running with 4:56 in a 14 BFF w/ locker. I did upgrade the transmission with a good transmission cooler. Also added an adjustable thermostat for my fan. So far so good, but I think my transmission is finally starting to go after 163,000 miles.
 
load leveling setup with weight distribution. strengthen up the fram a bit front and rear, air bags and some engine mods. stay away from the lift UNLESS you go to a 19.5 or 22.5 inch rim. re gear as needed and lighten the thing up to the point where its almost only a tow rig so you can still daily drive it.
a good brake controller and breakaway kit with the trailer. as well.
thats just waht i woudl do though.
Grant
 
I don't see a problem at all as long as it is updated to 1 ton drivetrain.

There is absolutely no reason that a 4.56 geared truck with 1 ton axles and rear suspension cannot tow another vehicle. It's a longbox truck and that's exactly what my tow rig is...a 1 ton truck with 1 ton suspension/drivetrain.
 
i dont recommend it. first of all 8000+
lbs on a 1500 is alot. second of all the drop hitch is kind of tall to tow that kind of weight. you are almost towing the wrong direction. of course i dont know about the true weight of the k30 and trailer.

i would also add braking is dynamically changed with that much lift. center of gravity has a pretty good impact (lift is negative impact) on trailering. braking ratio and load transfer causes the front to dive, and the load to shift. i wouldnt be surprised in heavy panic braking to see a 8 to 10" drop hitch to bend.
 
Ok dont laugh too hard........but idea.......what if there was a way to just lower the hitch??????? Im sure this has been gone over just curious /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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i would also add braking is dynamically changed with that much lift. center of gravity has a pretty good impact (lift is negative impact) on trailering. braking ratio and load transfer causes the front to dive, and the load to shift. i wouldnt be surprised in heavy panic braking to see a 8 to 10" drop hitch to bend.

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1. COG, agreed, that's why you keep lift to a minimum.

2. Keeping the trailer and the tow rig level is essential but really doesn't have much to do with how tall your tow rig. One of our trucks with a 4" lift is just starting to get near the height of new 4x4 trucks which sit quite tall compared to the trucks of yesterday.

3. My trailer has an adjustable coupler, and I could pull it with a dump truck and not need a drop hitch. Reguardless, if you're pulling a heavy trailer you're going to be using a weight distributing setup which will allow still more adjustment yet.

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Ok dont laugh too hard........but idea.......what if there was a way to just lower the hitch??????? Im sure this has been gone over just curious

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This is a great idea. That is why my adjustable coupler would work out so well. Simply pull two bolts, remove the coupler, adjust to the new desired height and replace the two bolts to secure the coupler. It couldn't possibly be any easier.

If your trailer is not sitting level behind your truck that is a totally seperate issue from the lift your truck may or may not have. I'd say being geared for the tire size is far more important an issue to be worried about. Nearly any trailer can be made to sit level behind a tall truck with the proper adjustments.
 
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i would also add braking is dynamically changed with that much lift. center of gravity has a pretty good impact (lift is negative impact) on trailering. braking ratio and load transfer causes the front to dive, and the load to shift. i wouldnt be surprised in heavy panic braking to see a 8 to 10" drop hitch to bend.

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Have you ever seen drop hitches made by Drawtite? Cause I have an 8" drop hitch that I use to tow 10k with my 9" lifted F350 on 41" Michelin XZLs. Ive made some panic stops with it, and it has never bent. It is solid 2x2 square stock, and rated for 12,000 lbs. Towing with a lifted rig can be done easily and safely. Starting with a 1/2 ton base isnt the best way to go, but with upgraded axles and suspension, it should be doable and work out quite well.
 
first of all. you cannot compare a 1991 truck at x height to a 2004 at x height.

second, i know there are exceptions to everything. but because it "feels good" doesnt make it safe.

third. if i can shake the cobwebs out of my head ill do some math to show yall some COG's.

fourth, a 140lb vs 200lb motorcycle rider has a VERY noticable effect on braking distribution as a result of transfer of weight. its all basic physics.


disregard my above..... sure its ok to tow.
 
Well, not to start a pissing match, but if that last post was directed at me....you will have to quote me on where I listed any dates of trucks, let alone a 2004. Try 10 years before that for my F350. Im not disagreeing with you that COG isnt a factor, Im just saying that when running a GCWR of 20k with my 94 F350 on 41s at 60 mph, I didnt feel unsafe, braking was very controlled, suspension rode smoothly and the truck accelerated well for having 3.55s at the time. With the proper equipment, lifted rigs can tow, and tow damn well, plain and simple.
 
no its wasnt directed at you, or anyone else. frame technology has changed alot in the last few years.

whenn you hit reply on this thing it picks a name and adds it. i cant argue too much today.... still sore from getting kicked last night.
 
also id like to add 35" 15r or 16r tow rated tires are not all that common.
 
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i would also add braking is dynamically changed with that much lift. center of gravity has a pretty good impact (lift is negative impact) on trailering. braking ratio and load transfer causes the front to dive, and the load to shift. i wouldnt be surprised in heavy panic braking to see a 8 to 10" drop hitch to bend.

[/ QUOTE ]

Have you ever seen drop hitches made by Drawtite? Cause I have an 8" drop hitch that I use to tow 10k with my 9" lifted F350 on 41" Michelin XZLs. Ive made some panic stops with it, and it has never bent. It is solid 2x2 square stock, and rated for 12,000 lbs. Towing with a lifted rig can be done easily and safely. Starting with a 1/2 ton base isnt the best way to go, but with upgraded axles and suspension, it should be doable and work out quite well.

[/ QUOTE ] Does drwtie make this drop kit tow deal??? If so, give me a link,i want one /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
I bet it would be fine. Especially if it's a long bed. I would add in an addaleaf when you do the lift. I tow all the time with my K5 that is lifted 10" on 35" boggers, 3/4 gear. I have hauled a 79 F150 4x4 on a trailer and it felt plenty stable even at 60mph. I have hauled other things also that are just as heavy as a vehicle on my tandem axle trailer without a problem.

Make sure the brakes work good on the trailer and especially on the truck. My brakes work very good on the K5.
Forget the 4l80 swap, that costs a ton unless you try and use used wrecking yard parts or something. Build the th700, mine has never skipped a beat under load after being built up.

Most importantly..use your head....that is the key to safe towing IMHO.
 
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