CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Toyota Transfer Case Crossmember combo, idea for Chevy auto

sled_dog

1 ton status
Joined
Sep 3, 2002
Posts
16,867
Reaction score
3
Location
Austin, TX
I helped a buddy install one in class today. Hes doing a straight axle swap and so he installed one of the Front Range Offroad crossmembers that bolts to the backside of the transfer case. So how does he get away with this? Is the Toyota case really strong enough to take the abuse of being the transmission mount?? I know an NP case just wouldn't take that abuse. Yes I realize its just a V6 in front of the case but hes got the TRD blower and a 5 speed, I'd think its still taking a beating.
 
Toy case is just a cast aluminum housing like the NP cases. I dont think I have ever seen anyone try a mount like that on a Chevy case..

I think it owuld hold up just as well as the Toy cases....


For those of you who dont know what he's talking about, he is a pic of one:

Wheeling-Taco-013.jpg


The black plate around the back of the t-case is the x-member.....



I've seen some with skid plates attached to guard the case.
 
So I forgot to post the rest of this, I was also thinking about something here. I am puting a 241 behind a TH350. I could get a 700R4 adapter and make a spacer that goes between the TH350 and 700R4 adapter to make up the output shaft length. Make the spacer from a big piece of 3/8" flat stock, and build off of it for a crossmember. Crazy idea? I know I most likely won't end up doing it, just a thought I'm having. Could tie the crossmember into the bellhousing bolts to take some stress off of the transmission.
 
Emmettology 101 said:
Toy case is just a cast aluminum housing like the NP cases. I dont think I have ever seen anyone try a mount like that on a Chevy case..

I think it owuld hold up just as well as the Toy cases....


For those of you who dont know what he's talking about, he is a pic of one:

http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/images/Wheeling-Taco-013.jpg

The black plate around the back of the t-case is the x-member.....

I've seen some with skid plates attached to guard the case.

Yes that is exactly what we installed today. I was wondering how much tougher the thing could really be, read my second post for what its making me think.
 
I say, TRY IT! :D If you look enough on the net, they run these cases behind SBC's all the time. Only thing the change is the input shaft to 23 splines if it didn't come with one(some are only 21 spline)....

And most will look at Toys and say they are alot smaller and llighter when in reality they aren't much lighter... Alot of guys on the Toy forum on Por are in the mid to high 4K to 5k+ range. Similar to a K5..
 
sled_dog said:
So I forgot to post the rest of this, I was also thinking about something here. I am puting a 241 behind a TH350. I could get a 700R4 adapter and make a spacer that goes between the TH350 and 700R4 adapter to make up the output shaft length. Make the spacer from a big piece of 3/8" flat stock, and build off of it for a crossmember. Crazy idea? I know I most likely won't end up doing it, just a thought I'm having. Could tie the crossmember into the bellhousing bolts to take some stress off of the transmission.

What you are saying here doesn't seem much different than what is already being done stock, so I dont see why not. But why not just use the stock adapter foot to mount it rather than fabbing a new one? Unless you went the route of thr FRORF mount.
 
Why not 1/4" thick flat stock instead? You'd save some weight and 1/4" thick is still strong enough to prevent from bending/warping.
 
the problem is, like almost everyone does with a big lift, I'm going to have driveshaft to crossmember issues. This style of mount would be easier to get around this issue. I'll likely work some modification to the stock crossmember to make it work though. My S10 will probably be something like 12" of lift when I'm done.
 
thatK30guy said:
Why not 1/4" thick flat stock instead? You'd save some weight and 1/4" thick is still strong enough to prevent from bending/warping.

I have a sheet of 3/8" laying around. I'm using it for brackets and such.
 
If you look at the pic, you can see how they "get away with it". The ends of the crossmember are mounted with rubber mounts. They're aren't bolted solid to the frame, like a GM crossmember is. I hope your buddy used the rubber mounts... :rolleyes:
 
Being a yoter driver I've looked at that x-member kit. I'm not sure it's all that great of an idea. Ref the discussion here a while back about 4 vs. 3 mounting points for the engine/trans/t-c combo.

My thot was to build the plate like the FROF kit has, but use a rubber or urethane spring eye bushing pair under/behind the t-c itself. Say directly under the rear driveshaft, but slightly above the bottom of the t-c, perhaps by the thickness of the x-member. Then use a more std x-member to pick up the soft mount. Gets you clear of the front driveshaft and only uses three points.
The yoter t-c has bosses on it's bottom for the stock mount. Figured to use those to mount a very needed skidplate. Not sure what I'd do if I were to go this route on the Sub.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom