Fixed the problem, chassis power was too weak...
Last edited:
CK5
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TPI Help (aka..Dorian, Scott, please advise)
- Thread starter noahrob
- Start date
Did you figure out why there was no power at the fuse block?
Check to make sure you have power at the pink/black wires at the computer while cranking. You may have a bad ignition switch that's only intermittently powering up the computer.
Check back and give us a little more background on electrical problem and what you fixed to get power at the fuse box.
Check to make sure you have power at the pink/black wires at the computer while cranking. You may have a bad ignition switch that's only intermittently powering up the computer.
Check back and give us a little more background on electrical problem and what you fixed to get power at the fuse box.
Agreed with the wiring. Check it out good.
You fuse everything that was fused originally?
Oil pump switch has no bearing on the fuel pump operating given that the ECM and fuel pump relay are operating correctly. Nor do you need the fuel pump relay if the oil pressure switch is working correctly.
Computer will not run the pump every time you turn the key, I *think* it's a timer in the ECM that controls the prime circuit, obviously when you first turn the key to run, but also when you turn it off, then turn it back on quickly.
You fuse everything that was fused originally?
Oil pump switch has no bearing on the fuel pump operating given that the ECM and fuel pump relay are operating correctly. Nor do you need the fuel pump relay if the oil pressure switch is working correctly.
Computer will not run the pump every time you turn the key, I *think* it's a timer in the ECM that controls the prime circuit, obviously when you first turn the key to run, but also when you turn it off, then turn it back on quickly.
Sorry Noah hate to agree but because I know your truck I also think it sounds like bad wiring.
If you don't have any injector pulse or spark then either a bad module (you said you just replaced it) or a bad pick-up coil inside the distributor. If either of those go bad it will affect injector pulse signal as well.
I replaced the thing inside the distributor, at the base...what is the other module, the external coil? So far no luck tracking down the wiring, but I'm hopeful it will turn up eventually. Thanks for the feedback.
In order to replace the pick up coil you must remove the distributor and take it completely apart. I'm pretty sure that you only changed the ignition module as you've stated earlier. The ignition module has 2 plugs that plug into it and one of those plugs is a 2 wire plug from the pick-up coil.
Alright Scott, got it, I was looking at the ignition coil wondering what the heck you were talking about...but now I got it, the pick up coil. Can that thing fail intermitently?
Actually a few have even had problems with the magnet. Others have had the pole piece become damaged due to slop in the distributor itself.
OK, the saga continues...I replaced the pick up coil and am still having issues. I think my fuse block is full of gremlines, can that happen? It seems like it has power, then a pin will lose power...Here is what I know...
The engine will crank over, but the ignition will only fire once the key goes from crank to "on", kind of like it was building power, then releases a charge at the end. I checked this at the coil, 12v in to the coil and only sparatic spark out of the coil. I changed the coil and the same thing. I changed where the 12v came from and it worked better, but then that fuse pin got weird..
With that said, I think I am going to replace my fuse panel, after all it is 34 years old...should I get a stock GM replacement part, or is there some aftermarket product that is a better solution? What should I search to read how to do it?
"fuse panel replacement?
The engine will crank over, but the ignition will only fire once the key goes from crank to "on", kind of like it was building power, then releases a charge at the end. I checked this at the coil, 12v in to the coil and only sparatic spark out of the coil. I changed the coil and the same thing. I changed where the 12v came from and it worked better, but then that fuse pin got weird..
With that said, I think I am going to replace my fuse panel, after all it is 34 years old...should I get a stock GM replacement part, or is there some aftermarket product that is a better solution? What should I search to read how to do it?
"fuse panel replacement?
I'm so stuck on factory stuff, that's my answer, but it would obviously be from a TBI truck.
I'm sure some here are using aftermarket panels, see what they have to say. From what I've seen, they are way too much $$ for my blood.
I'm sure some here are using aftermarket panels, see what they have to say. From what I've seen, they are way too much $$ for my blood.
