Did you fail to click on the link that @Bent77 posted? It is a D44 unit for sale.
CK5
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trac loc
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
I dont have huge hands...
front unit ...... look at a detroit true-trac helical gear posi .
I click it multiple times, there is no mention of brand, and their part number doesn't coincide with any others. I guess the Furd thing was throwing me off, thou I do own a 1969 Bronco, next project.
yep this is a real nice option over a the 2 spicer units and lots of guys like them in the front and rear also .
What ratio do you have?
I have one, need to check what ratio
am switching to 4.88
Eaton is Detroit True Trac. I have one front and rear with 4.56 gears. 10 bolt is 2.72 up.
Back to the OP, when you say "street driven truck" I'm not sure what your concern is. If you have the truck in 2wd with the hubs unlocked it doesn't matter what differential you have in the front. The only time it will come into play is if you need to run the truck in 4wd on the road, such as in a snow storm. From my experience I prefer a completely open front diff when you simply want 4wd for slippery roads. My K5 had an Eaton limited slip in the front at one time and it always wanted to push real bad (keep going straight) when you turned on snowy roads.
In general the Trac-locks were one of mildest limited slips on the market, in regards to being able to transfer the least amount of power between the two tires. They were definitely designed for OEM rear axle applications to allow for some additional traction but limited impact on the handling of the vehicle. Don't get me wrong as they do help some in off-road conditions. In my experience of 25+years of off-roading and 12 years performing automotive testing, here is how I rank differentials on a 1 to 10 scale in true off road conditions. This is with 1 being the type with the least amount of power transfer (open diff) and 10 being the best (Detroit locker or spool).
1 = open diff
3 = Trac-lock, and most OEM limited slips
5 = Eaton limited slip (aftermarket version)
6 = TrueTrac
6 = Gov-loc (if not worn out...on my 2500HD with 130k miles if you put 1 tire on wet grass and the other on dry asphalt it will spin the tire that is on asphalt instantly when you floor it, main limitation is if you lift a tire before it it locked in you often can't get it to lock)
10 = Detroit locker or spool
Again, those rankings are simply for off-roading and not for overall strength, wear, road manners, etc....
In general the Trac-locks were one of mildest limited slips on the market, in regards to being able to transfer the least amount of power between the two tires. They were definitely designed for OEM rear axle applications to allow for some additional traction but limited impact on the handling of the vehicle. Don't get me wrong as they do help some in off-road conditions. In my experience of 25+years of off-roading and 12 years performing automotive testing, here is how I rank differentials on a 1 to 10 scale in true off road conditions. This is with 1 being the type with the least amount of power transfer (open diff) and 10 being the best (Detroit locker or spool).
1 = open diff
3 = Trac-lock, and most OEM limited slips
5 = Eaton limited slip (aftermarket version)
6 = TrueTrac
6 = Gov-loc (if not worn out...on my 2500HD with 130k miles if you put 1 tire on wet grass and the other on dry asphalt it will spin the tire that is on asphalt instantly when you floor it, main limitation is if you lift a tire before it it locked in you often can't get it to lock)
10 = Detroit locker or spool
Again, those rankings are simply for off-roading and not for overall strength, wear, road manners, etc....
Should have said also street driven. Will do trails washes it's going to retire in rural AZ with me, tow camping rig. Yes I do have locking hubs and np205 so will unlock.
Never had a locking/ls front diff. I guess my concern is not snapping the stock axles, and was thinking I should get a selectable.
But I see now I can use non selectable.
I wouldn't even change it except I am regearing to 4.88, and thought while I am in there....
Never had a locking/ls front diff. I guess my concern is not snapping the stock axles, and was thinking I should get a selectable.
But I see now I can use non selectable.
I wouldn't even change it except I am regearing to 4.88, and thought while I am in there....
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Here's my take on going with a limited slip or selectable in a 10bolt or d44. Either way you go, spend the money now on upgraded shafts. Either diff will put more stress on the shafts than you think. Even with reasonable tire size like 35" or less.
I've broken 2 right side shafts and 1 left side shaft in 3 years. One per season. However I got lucky on the first two and only had to fix the shafts themselves. This last one killed the ball joints and ended up needing a knuckle too, but that's only because the upper ball joint wouldn't stay tight.
Add up what I've spent over all three failures and I could have put chrome-moly shafts in it.
You might get away without the upgraded shafts with a looser limited slip, but if you go for a tru-trac I'd make the switch to the good shafts at the same time.
