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traction aids...which is better clutch or no clutch?

Originally Posted by dirtwarrior17
stock hp: 210
Manifold 20( holley projection)
670 cfm tbi 15 ( probably more around 25- 30 with the chip(stock 210 hp 350 sees 20 on its best day without a chip)
cam 20(its old but crane cams made it as a hydraulic replica not repacement)
447 lift 272 dur
headers 15
exhaust 10
compression 20
bore 5
chip 0
Kand n xtreme filter lid and kandn filter 10( manufacture claims 10 at the wheels)
higher fuel psi 10
heads more like 20... been ported and polished but they are 1.94's
those numbers are very very modest considering what manufactures claim.
ok I'll rest my case at 350.

Last thing i want to do it bicker for another 3 weeks but this is just my opinion. Just my 2 cents.

YOu are still too optimistic. With your heads being 1.94's they are hardly better than stock. Maybe worth 10-15HP. Your complete exhaust makes maybe 15-20HP over a stock system. Headers only make 7HP on average on a stock engine.

that would be about 335 to 340. :deal: :saweet: good enough.


couldn't resist.....
 
back to what this thread is about....

How is a 14b sf any different than a ff? more ground clearence, eaiser to find, cheaper? What were they on, where can i get one, and for how much? I thought i remembered somebody saying that its the best of both worlds as far as ground clearence and abilitly to take a beating but i was too wrapped up in the hp discussion.
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
back to what this thread is about....

How is a 14b sf any different than a ff? more ground clearence, eaiser to find, cheaper? What were they on, where can i get one, and for how much? I thought i remembered somebody saying that its the best of both worlds as far as ground clearence and abilitly to take a beating but i was too wrapped up in the hp discussion.
a 14BFF is a full floating rear end. Do you know what that is? The axle shaft in a FF rear end just transfers power, it doesn't hold any weight unlike the style of a smei floating axle. The weight rides on a spindle and a hub with dual bearings. The axleshaft slides into the spindle because it is hollow. A 14BFF has bigger everything over the SF version. Here is a pic of my 14BFF.
6991dsc_014.jpg
 
A SF 14 bolt should have about 1/2" less ground clearance than a 10 bolt. They'll hold up to 38's reliably, the only downside is that it is still a 'C' clip rearend.

Jake, you're gonna give Bobby and anuerysm soon enough...he is right in saying a truck with a 700R-4 will almost always blow the doors off a truck with an SM 465. With enough motor and some skill the reverse could be true...but mostly the 465 is not a fast shifting tranny (and the splits between gears are huge)

but it does put more power to the ground LOL

Rene
 
rjfguitar said:
What the hell! You come to me bitching and moaning about your Th700R4 and I get you HOOKED UP on a good deal from the guy that built my 700 and got a duplicate tranny of mine built for you. You tell me last night that it shifts perfectly and is just as good as the day we brought it back from the shop. Now you want to badmouth them that it's going to give out anyday? :rolleyes:

The 465 would not be faster from 0-60 like you think it would be. The cute little 4spd box in your mustang is half the iron a 465 is, a 465 is like shifting a truck, not a car.

Reread my posts above about the dyno. You loose 35-45% AT THE REAR WHEELS, thats through the tranny,Tcase, driveline, rearend, and tires. With every transition of power through each drivetrain part it causes a loss in energy. As Rene said, they take about 20-30 HP, big deal in my book. A 465 has a clutch and is full of gears and bearings, they suck HP too.

I have heard plenty of guys complaining about the 465's. Timmy boy has one that pops out of gear all the time IIRC. That means it's shot. How about the nasty spread between 2nd and 3rd gear? How about when that tranny needs a clutch? Have fun pulling the transmission out to get a clutch in.

On the dyno there probably wouldn't be more than a 25HP difference. Our TH700's our BUILT with aftermarket blueprinted converters and premium internals that help transmit the power the best way a hydralic coupling could.

YES, the 465 would put a couple of more ponies to the ground, but you will never feel the difference driving it unless you were pulling a load, and you yourself said you never tow anything anyway. Do what ever the crap you want, throw your $1500 built 700 that I got you hooked up with inthe garbage and good luck with that 465 swap and when you complain about how bad it sucks because you don't have OD anymore and it accelerates slower because, to your suprise, it doesn't shift fast like your mustang.....don't come to me looking for help to reverse the swap.

Damn that was long!! :grin: i like the 700, i just like the 465 idea better. Ill keep the 700, until it goes out, and then go to a 465, just like you wanted to do at one point in time.:)
 
what kind of ground clearance does that transfer to when going from corp 10 to 14 sf?

Come on now, I already posted that on the first page. Tells me whether I should bother replying to your posts or not. :rolleyes:
 
I know... wasn't sure if you meant it loses a 1/2" over 14bff or 10b but i get it now.

while were on the subject how much more clearence does a 14b sf have over a 14b ff?

sorry for all the question but what does c clip mean? Just want to know what to look for when i buy the lockrites and gears.

thanks for the respones.

6991dsc_014.jpg


hold up.... is that a diesel exhaust pipe im lookin at?
 
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dirtwarrior17 said:
6991dsc_014.jpg


hold up.... is that a diesel exhaust pipe im lookin at?
\
No, most diesel's have rolled tips, thats what I will use with my Cummins, but a tip is a tip really.

I havel Hooker headers, dual 40 series flowmasters, dual 2.5" piping, and dual 5" tips
 
hi pinion said:
Damn that was long!! :grin: i like the 700, i just like the 465 idea better. Ill keep the 700, until it goes out, and then go to a 465, just like you wanted to do at one point in time.:)

1) You THINK you like the 465 idea better.

2) For how much you drive your K5, that brand new Th700 willlast most of the rest of that K5's life.

2) I NEVER said I wanted to down grade to a 465 ( no offence 4 spd guys), thats for damn sure. Maybe a 4500 5spd but I would never actually do it, I like my 700 a lot better than the 4500 in our '98 Chevy dually ranch truck.

I can't believe you would even consider trading 80's transmission technology for 60's non overdrive manual transmission technology. YOu, my friend, are nutzzz...
 
rjfguitar said:
I can't believe you would even consider trading 80's transmission technology for 60's non overdrive manual transmission technology. YOu, my friend, are nutzzz...

I'm proud of em. :grin:
 
84_Chevy_K10 said:
I'm proud of em. :grin:
You had a high mileage, sotck 700, I don't blame you. He has a brand new built TH700 that would laugh at a mild big block, he's nuts.
 
decided to go with the lockrites instead or maybe even a detroit since i decided to put a 14bsf in her i will have more options. Probably still go with the lockrites since they don't come unlocked on the trail and stayed locked with the right amount of gas plus the has better street manners than full lockers and are alot cheaper than selectable.... im not knocking full lockers just saying on the street I want good tire wear and a predictable rig.

thanks for the input tho....

anybody know of any CHEAP electric rear selectable lockers?
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
decided to go with the lockrites instead or maybe even a detroit since i decided to put a 14bsf in her i will have more options. Probably still go with the lockrites since they don't come unlocked on the trail and stayed locked with the right amount of gas plus the has better street manners than full lockers and are alot cheaper than selectable.... im not knocking full lockers just saying on the street I want good tire wear and a predictable rig.

thanks for the input tho....

anybody know of any CHEAP electric rear selectable lockers?

I think you'd be better off with a Detroit in the rear. Between Detroit and a lockrite.... Both are going to work along the same principle and the Detorit will be stronger.

You can get a good, cheap elec. locker with 4.10 gears and a case for about $450 used. But then you'd have to swap to a Toyota rear axle. :thumb:
 
Heck, some of the prices I saw for 14SF lockers were within a couple $100 of the ARB I believe it was.
 
hmmm.....

For now I still want the lockrites unless somebody has a cheap selectable they know of. I want the lockrites just because they unlock going around corners on the street and then lock up nice and tight on the trail. Saves me some tires and less stress on the drivetrain.

Looks like the front 10b is getting a spool tho.(manual hubs)
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
hmmm.....

For now I still want the lockrites unless somebody has a cheap selectable they know of. I want the lockrites just because they unlock going around corners on the street and then lock up nice and tight on the trail. Saves me some tires and less stress on the drivetrain.

Looks like the front 10b is getting a spool tho.

Detroit is designed to do the same thing. The only thing that doesn't is a spool.
 
what? I thought detroits were almost the same as a spool because they had a little more play. it comes unlocked around corners? I know they make one just like the lockrite but I thought the detroits were straight up lockers not like the lockrite.
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
what? I thought detroits were almost the same as a spool because the had a little more play. it comes unlocked around corners?

Yes. It will unlock when no power is supplied and usually around corners. It is designed to do this. Same principle as with a lockright except the lockright is a simpler install, but not as strong.

Only lockers that lock 100% of the time(when locked) are the ARB, some of the new elec lockers and spools. Although the ARB and elec lockers can be "unlocked" by a flip of a switch.
 
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