DERBINATOR
1/2 ton status
I am going to be building a traction bar and have noticed some differences in lengths. I have seen then range from 33"(sams offroad) to 6 ft.(moo sub). What are the pros and cons in the length?
CK5
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Traction bar length
- Thread starter DERBINATOR
- Start date
The shorter bars would be more prone to bad anti-squat. Mine are 52" long...which was as long as they could possibly be with my wheelbase.
Rene
Rene
DERBINATOR
1/2 ton status
So length won't matter if I can live anti-squat? And anti-squat is what exactly?
Anti squat is the rear end raising up under power. What happens is as the bar length gets shorter the angularity of the bars gets worse. When you accelerate hard enough the diff tries to drive 'under' the bars instead of pushing directly on them. This raises the rear of the truck.
spring rate has an affect on this as well...but most guys that need traction bars are using soft springs.
Rene
spring rate has an affect on this as well...but most guys that need traction bars are using soft springs.
Rene
DERBINATOR
1/2 ton status
Is there a difference in where they mount to the rear end. The ones that MOO make mount way on top as compared to others I've seen. And would the different mounting locations affect the length or anti-squat?
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
Everything about the angularity of the bars and the length as well as the mounting affects anti squat. From what I understand, as long and level as possible is what you're looking for.
Tim's got the right idea...as long and as 'level' as practical, will net the best results.
Rene
Rene
I've heard the part about wanting them as long as possible, but as far as level goes wouldn't you want to mount them on top of the axle to achieve that? I've heard it's better to mount them below the axle to control wrap.
Actually, "level" (meaning straight out from the axle) is really just a rule of thumb representing the configuration that is about as good as you’re likely to get it. The real deal is that when viewed from the side, you draw a line from the contact patch of the rear tire through the pivot point at the forward end of the bar. You want to keep this line as "level" as possible. Obviously there are ground clearance issues that are in opposition to this goal, so you just get as "flat as you can” without giving up ground clearance. Since you pretty much stuck with the axle tubes, putting the forward point of the bar just a bit above that level is the common solution. So, a longer bar will “flatten” the line, given all other things remain the same. And mounting the forward end lower will also reduce the "anti-squat" characteristics by “flattening” the line. But the axle side mount has no bearing at all on the anti-squat... You could mount it on a tower above the top of the roll cages, and baring mechanical interference or failure, it would make no difference.
