CK5
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"trail" toolbox...

Nice! You seem prepared. I usually bring tow straps, and my tool box that I use for work along with a can of PB Blaster and starting spray.

so does you 14bff still have over 2 gallons of fluid in it? Or did you drain it out to the correct level?
 
Avery4jc said:
Yeah I have a grinder that I was going to take (can't think of anything that I'd need that for as it would be sort of major) but I was doubtful that I would be able to run it off the inverter for very long w/o sucking the battery dry....when doing stuff like that do you just have to leave the truck idling?

I've got an aux battery if I kill the main one..........but unless ya run it for an extended amount of time, shouldn't be a problem.
 
Yeah PB Blaster and stuff was included in my toolbox under the general "fluid" heading :)

Colby is right...I have a 14ff out back...

Chevy305 I have tow straps, they are in the toolbox in the bed of my truck (they're like 20' long rated to like 10,000lb working load)...Oh and yeah I drained out the fluid until it was at the fill plug level and it has taken care of my leaking problem...

Today I bought a nice set of tie down straps as well as four short straps designed to wrap around the axle tubes so now I can wrap the tubes then hook one end of the tie down to that then the other to the D-rings on the trailer and get it nice and secure...
I also ran by Kragen and got a u-joint for my rear d-shaft as well as one for my front end...we had some difficulties as his comptuer brought up like 10 different ones but I think we ended up with the right ones...
Are the u-joints for the stub axles on a 10b the same as the ones in the d-shaft? His computer seemed to think so...

Tomorrow I pick up the trailer at 6:30 in the morning so I'll get it back to the house and start getting things loaded up...I'm really really really hoping that I can fit my truck with the 38.5's on the trailer but if not then I'll have to just use the 35's...what do you guys think? The 35's are smaller and are only 12.5" wide compared to the 16" wide footprint on my Baja Claws BUT the 35's don't rub at full compression of the suspension as well as they are undoubtedly MUCH easier on the drivetrain compared to the big a$$ 38.5's....

So in the sand what would be better? Air'd down 35's with plenty of power to spin them...

OR

huge 38.5 x 16" wide Bias Ply Baja Claws?
 
A couple of adjustable wrenches:confused: If for anything else they are good for holding one side of nuts & bolts.

Suggestion for the inverter. Looks like your work light is 120v AC. Get one in 12vDC. LED if you can afford it. Anything you run through the inverter will use more battery power. There is an efficiency loss with inverters so a 12v light will last longer than the same 120v light run through an inverter. Of course some things are two expensive or just not worth getting in 12v so the inverter is still a good idea.

Consider getting a second battery. You can hook it up isolated from your primary battery or just have it by itself. If you drain it dead you still have one for starting.

Did I see a voltage meter in your kit? If you are running stuff off the battery with the engine off you can occasionally meter the battery. If it meters out at 12v or less you should consider starting the vehicle. Ya know with the vehicle running the meter should read close to 14v right?

Should you think you have run the battery down and want to start it make sure you run it for awhile to charge. Certainly if it shows any symptoms of a drained battery. IIRC most vehicles need to run over 5 minutes to gain back the charge lost by starting. Too many people like to get a jump or start the vehicle and then shut it immediately off. That only looses power.

Looks like you have a nice complement of tools and emergency stuff though.:D

Eddited to add:

Move those lights! Under the bumper is a great way to break them off on something!
 
BKinzey said:
A couple of adjustable wrenches:confused: If for anything else they are good for holding one side of nuts & bolts.

Suggestion for the inverter. Looks like your work light is 120v AC. Get one in 12vDC. LED if you can afford it. Anything you run through the inverter will use more battery power. There is an efficiency loss with inverters so a 12v light will last longer than the same 120v light run through an inverter. Of course some things are two expensive or just not worth getting in 12v so the inverter is still a good idea.

Consider getting a second battery. You can hook it up isolated from your primary battery or just have it by itself. If you drain it dead you still have one for starting.

Did I see a voltage meter in your kit? If you are running stuff off the battery with the engine off you can occasionally meter the battery. If it meters out at 12v or less you should consider starting the vehicle. Ya know with the vehicle running the meter should read close to 14v right?

Should you think you have run the battery down and want to start it make sure you run it for awhile to charge. Certainly if it shows any symptoms of a drained battery. IIRC most vehicles need to run over 5 minutes to gain back the charge lost by starting. Too many people like to get a jump or start the vehicle and then shut it immediately off. That only looses power.

Looks like you have a nice complement of tools and emergency stuff though.:D

Eddited to add:

Move those lights! Under the bumper is a great way to break them off on something!

Yep I put a couple adjustable wrenches in the box this morning...

The 12v light is a good idea, if I have time tomorrow before I leave I'll grab one before we leave town...

Yep I have my do-it-all meter in the box...its handy, like you said, to keep tabs on the battery especially if I'm running something off that inverter...

The second battery is a good idea but I just don't have the $$$ right now...after all these spare parts, renting the trailer, gas, etc. I've got about $500 left in the account and I'd like to keep it there in case of an actual emergency...the nice thing about where I'm going is its not like I'm out in the middle of nowhere...

I sort of like the lights there b/c it gives a nice intense flood in front of the truck for about 30' or so...plus I can't ever hit the rocks or trails in this truck so I'm not worried...just the sand and theres not much to hit out there :)
 
Avery...the a/t kick ass in sand...i have literally burried my rear end almost to the point of being stuck, put in four and rocked myself out. I can stab the gas from a stop cut the wheel and not have to worry about not going anywhere or getting stuck.:laugh: They truely are a good tire IF you can spin them.

That is especially true in mud. And they throw quite a good roost too:D

Good luck, have fun! From seeing all your tools it looks like quite a good assortment.
 
Ok sounds good...I had just always planned on taking my 38.5's but since I can spin up these 35's so easily with the 4.10's and especially in 4 low (NP208 has a pretty "low" low) I figured I might have better luck just sticking to a smaller tire... Plus I think my truck could easily hold up to 35's in the sand but with 38.5's I might start breaking u-joints and stuff...
 
Even so with the 38.5"s you still have open diffs right? I doubt you'de break anything in the sand, but I'd try out the 35" BFG mall terrains. I ran that tire for a while and had awsome results but I like my MTZs a little more.
 
Yeah I have open diffs front and rear...

I have plenty of room on the trailer (its 8' x 23') so I'll throw them on and strap them down so if I get there and want them I've got 'em but if not its not really that big of a deal...

Especially now that I know garry will be there hopefully if it comes to that I can steal his driveway to swap them and not have to try doing it out in the sand...
 
what is there to subscribe to? besides the BSing about this thread coming back for no reason after 4yrs...
 
Holy old thread batman! Look how far the truck has come since this thread... I've definitely refined my packing/storage over the past few years. :)
 
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