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Tranny cooler lines

TJ1978

I have MANY questions
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TH350 is almost done being rebuilt. And while the pre bent ones are cute, I have had bad luck the two times I tried them, arrived messed up.

I leaning to this bend your own, which I used before and it worked and was cheap. I can bend the tube if need be and I will need be.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-338045

Or go the fancy route with braided?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-23-1501

If money didnt matter what is the route recommended between the two?
Im leaning braided but is it worth the extra $80?
 
I hate braided. Stuff is a royal pain in the ass the work with. Looks cool and functions well. But a pain to work with.
 
Russell and Earls have the best braided, but use their matching fittings. It makes a difference!
 
That was initial assembly, everything was fresh!
 
I used hi pressure hi temp pushloc hose from Jegs....careful routing, and some hi temp aluminized wrap where it was close to headers. Works great.

View attachment 329022

View attachment 329023

Can you link the hose and fittings you used? I may try that i have the standard TH350 fittings but not sure what AN adapters will work for the tranny and radiator
 
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I think... th350 is -6AN... but im not positive
If I remember 1/4" NPT pipe to -6AN... i got all mixed up what to get and what is what on my old c10 so I just got the $20 bend your own tranny line
 
Can you link the hose and fittings you used? I may try that i have the standard TH350 fittings but not sure what AN adapters will work for the tranny and radiator

I think you're right...be careful threading a fitting into the case, npt can crack it if you tighten it down to hard, just use some pipe dope sealer and snug em down. I used npt to -6an at the trans and cant remember the radiator and cooler fitting sizes, but I adapted them to the -6an fittings as well.
The hose I used is Gates...

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/102214/10002/-1

DBE3B064-C084-4110-AEBF-82CE43B0E5B0.jpeg

3C90FC05-2C02-4E33-9DAE-3B8237431C18.jpeg

D2A24F43-4538-4B7F-B5E8-1D31B2138F12.jpeg
 
When my transmission cooler lines need replacing next time on anything I own,I'm going to use the copper/nickel brake line tubing instead of the coated or galvanized tubing that lasts maybe 5 years up here if your lucky..

I also use a short length of tubing at the transmission fittings with a flared coupling or compression union so if the transmission ever needs to be removed,its a hell of a lot easier--despite the fitting looking easily accessible ,they suck to get at and get a line fitting to screw in without cross threading them..
 
Russell and Earls have the best braided, but use their matching fittings. It makes a difference!

To add to this; which ever fittings you use make sure the ones with bends don't neck down. I had some nice aftermarket 90s going into the radiator but didn't realize the ID was so damn small it restricted the flow of fluid to the point it made the trans run hot.
 
I assume its the same size fittings out of radiator.
The braided lines are nice. But when I used them on a previous C10 fix up,I had at least 1ft or more “extra” and had to loop them. Not a big deal and saved me from drivinf myself insane buying various AN fittings and none working.....
 
AdvancedAdaptors which is what summit sells. From their website direct they are $98 while summit is $117

Also from them direct they have a 5” lines instead of the 7” from summit.... but advanced for some reason only had the 90 degree angle adaptors pre installed.... FFS...
 
I use braided. Easy to route, tough, looks good, thermostat fittings available, temp sender fittings available.
 
Would the 90 degree be more ideal for the radiator input? i used the straight before and while not bad, maybe the 90 degree would be a better fit/look....
 
Im going to order up the $20 kit and some extra gates tranny hose from Oreillys and make that work. It’s all I can afford for now. I have a tube bender and if all else fails. I can hacksaw the tubes, keep the fittings and some tube behind them (and smooth out any burrs of course) and run hose over them and clamp it.

Im tapped $ wise for a bit. Down the line I can upgrade
 
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If you plan on sliding rubber hose over steel tubes,it is best to put a bubble flare on the tubing using the double flaring adapter ,so the tube has a "lump" for the hose to slide over,and the clamp will hold it from working its way off eventually..or at least use double hose clamps..

Whoever had my truck previously used power steering return line hose on the transmission cooler,and just slid it over the straight cut tubing--the P/S hose is 11/32" ID and slightly larger than the 5/16" tubing,and despite it being double clamped,it managed to work its way off,one day while checking the oil I saw it had been dripping there,and the hose was barely on the tubing by a 1/2"..!..fixed that in a hurry..

Cooler lines can ruin a transmission in less than a few minutes if one fails..it isn't often you can just repair one and fill the transmission back up,and not have any major troubles afterwards..
 
Im going to order up the $20 kit and some extra gates tranny hose from Oreillys and make that work. It’s all I can afford for now. I have a tube bender and if all else fails. I can hacksaw the tubes, keep the fittings and some tube behind them (and smooth out any burrs of course) and run hose over them and clamp it.

Im tapped $ wise for a bit. Down the line I can upgrade
That's why I just got the hose from napa and cut the metal lines a few inches from the transmission and radiator and it cost me the least
 
That's why I just got the hose from napa and cut the metal lines a few inches from the transmission and radiator and it cost me the least

In hindsight, I should have just cut the lines a bit longer from the tranny and left them in and cut the same from the radiator and ran hose. But too late now.. so instead of a $100+ For braided and or AN fittings and hose, I can get tranny lines for $35 or so.... next time, right? Hahaha

Dude is lagging a bit on tranny rebuild. So no updates until I get it back
 

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