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Transcase bearings

No that's not my thing....
Give my a cold beer or a Jack with some classic R&R music and I'm a happy camper!:D

I ordered the parts for the transcase at Drivetrain.
So I hope to do some work on it next week.:waytogo:

I'll try to post a few pic's next time. Not that handy with such stuff...:whistle:
 
bradshawtech said:
what was your impresion off Amsterdam.......?? :rolleyes:

Amsterdam was okay to me. A little overwhelming as I did not do my homework on the city before we got there. I was more focused on getting to the train without getting killed. Ha.
Click to expand...
Ha, you were right about that.
I was coming to the states thru Amsterdam and I had a 10 hour layover so I thought, I might as well go check out the city, I took the train, got there 9am, started to walk around and suddenly I look ahead and there is a Jamaican guy coming straight at me, he opens his hand and shows me the white stuff and says you wanna buy my ... and I say, no thank you and I start walking away when another guy comes out and grabs me and sticks a long pointy scissor in my waist and says:" give me some money, I am sick and need drugs"...
The rest of the story unfolds really quick, I had $3k cash in my pocket but only two 5 dollar bills in my wallet so I told him, you can have my money but don't do anything stupid...
He tells me to look around if I do anything wrong his buddies will rip me appart, sure enough he has 4 guys surrounding me, but they stayed clear.
I slowly grabbed his hand with the scissors, and stuffed it back in his pocket and firmly said, don't do anything stupid either and I had him touch my Leatherman in my pocket and made him believe it was the barrel of a gun... I then pulled out my wallet, gave him the first 5, one of his buddies runs accross and snatches it and the guy freaks out, so I calmed him down and gave him the other bill and started to walk backwards to the void created by the running guy, all while still holding on to the idiot so he doesn't do anything stupid, as soon as I felt out of their circle, I took off straight to the train, straight to the airport and spent 8 hours waiting for my plane.:doah:
I could have handled them all and probably saved my $10, but if one of them just barely touched me with a knife it wouldn't have been worth it, so i figured I sacrificed the $10 for my safety.:rolleyes:
If I ever go back I would have company, I noticed couples and groups were fine, I was alone and with a small BACKPACK screaming tourist.:dunno:
 
bradshawtech said:
Whoa, so it wasn't just me being nervous. Good for you that you made it out alive.
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I survived 35 years in Beirut, I think I can handle a bunch of Drugged up Jamaicans with scissors. :D
But I also learned from my sensei that there times to use your head, and sometimes to use your brain.:waytogo:
 
What a story Imiceman44....!:eek1:
Amsterdam is a "big" international city with a lot off "different" people...
I live in small village in the middle of the country.
In the early days we went to Amsterdam for the party's, but I was always very happy to go back home...!
Hope you will visite the Netherlands again despite of this situation.
 
bytheway...(mayby another topic)
But when I replaced the rear driveshaft for a 1350 CV I also replaced the 1310 yoke off the rear differential for a new 1350 yoke.:waytogo:
Do I need to "space / shime" the pinion bearings again?
When I fastend the pinion bolt in the yoke with the air impact gun I noticed the yoke turned a little bit harder...so I loosend it just a bit and then it turned much better.....:whistle:
I don't think this is the best solution!
 
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How about a picture or two of your rig from the netherlands ??? :waytogo::waytogo::waytogo:
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Here's a picture of my rig...!
 
ChevyNL said:
bytheway...(mayby another topic)
But when I replaced the rear driveshaft for a 1350 CV I also replaced the 1310 yoke off the rear differential for a new 1350 yoke.:waytogo:
Do I need to "space / shime" the pinion bearings again?
When I fastend the pinion bolt in the yoke with the air impact gun I noticed the yoke turned a little bit harder...so I loosend it just a bit and then it turned much better.....:whistle:
I don't think this is the best solution!
Click to expand...
If you changed the preload on the pinion bearings, then you (further) compressed the crush sleeve. It should be replaced, which can be done from the front, but to check the pinion bearing preload you have to pull the carrier OR do some careful math to subtract out the carrier friction divided by the gear ratio. It is possible to smoke the bearings with too much preload, but since you loosened the nut a bit it is more likely you have too little preload, which can destroy the ring and pinion.

Don't set final torque on a crush sleeve design with an impact.
 
If you changed the preload on the pinion bearings, then you (further) compressed the crush sleeve
Click to expand...

What is a "crush sleeve" ?
But I didn't remove or add (changed) shim's or something...just changed the yoke...( I understand that if the 1350 yoke is thicker than a 1310 yoke you put more stress on the bearings!?!?).
Now much torque is needed to fasten this bolt?
 
The pinion depth, carrier preload and backlash are set with shims, but the pinion preload is set with a crush sleeve behind the yoke. You crush it in place until the thickness is correct. The initial torque is very high (400 ft-lbs?) and then it gets easier, but it takes less torque to get the nut tight than it does to continue crushing.
 
The crush sleeve I guess in simple terms sets how hard the upper and lower pinion bearings are in their races.

If it is crushed too much your bearings will wear out at best, at worst they will fail and lock up the rear end.

If too loose it will let the pinion gear walk around. Which may lead to ruined gears. It will also destroy the pinion seal.

The crush sleeve can only be tightened once.
 
Hmmm so I guess you have to replace this crush sleeve "every time" you take the yoke off the pinion shaft...
So if I replace it for a new and set it to the correct torque it's okay?
I'll try to find some more info about this matter!
I already drove several miles this way....I hope I didn't destroy anything yet!
Thank for the feed back !
 
This isn't really true. You just have to be careful when tightening the pinion nut. The torque spec for the pinion nut is less than the torque it takes to further compress the crush sleeve. This is part of the reason the nut is supposed to be staked.

The crush sleeve should be replaced now, but you have to set pinion preload with it, which is like half the job of setting up a ring & pinion set. Research this. I heard that somebody is making a solid spacer/shim kit to replace the crush sleeves in GM axles. This might be an alternative for you, but you still have to go through the process of setting preload.
 
What is a "crush sleeve" ?
Click to expand...
here's another way to think of it,,,,, ever set wheel bearing preload after changing the front wheel bearings ?

you slowly tighten up the nut the holds the bearings in the hub until they start to drag and get harder to turn,, and then back it off and install the cotter pin in the castle nut to hold everything in place ...right ?

OK....On the pinion, the bearings need the same preload to keep the bearings happy....too loose and the pinion shaft floats around and destroys the gears and bearings....Too tight and the bearings will grind themselves up due to excess preload.

The way the preload is set is by using a crush sleeve.
As the pinion nut is tightened,,,a specially designed sleeve begins to crush under the stress of the torque of the nut being tightened against the yoke. As the sleeve crushes it allows the bearings to be forced against the races.... thus preloading the bearings.

As the sleeve crushes,,it gets shorter and shorter...once crushed.. it does not expand again...it's a one time use....go too far and it's toast...throw it away and start over.

the nut must be tightened and the preload measured with an inch lb torque wrench. It should be a slow process....tighten the pinion nut a little...measure the preload ( the rotational force it takes to start to turn the pinion shaft measured with the inch lb torque wrench ) and continue tightening and measuring until it is at the mfg. spec.

Using an impact wrench to tighten the hell out of it will surely crush the sleeve to far and destroy the bearings...

once the preload is set and established, It is possible to pull it back apart,,measure the crushed sleeve with a micrometer and then install shims of the same thickness of the measured crushed sleeve. There are shim kits available for this...

Hope this helps some...
 
Okay that makes is a bitt easier to understand thanks!
Wheelbearing adjustment is matter of "feeling"... I understand now that it takes a bit more than this "feeling" to set the pinion preload!?!?:confused:
I'll try to find a exploded view drawing of the 10-bolt and this crush sleeve to get better idea how these parts look like and where there mounted.
Maybe it's better to go to a specialist for this job....!:dunno:
(Than again if I kill the 10-bolt it's a good excuse to look for a Dana...:whistle: )
 
I did a bitt of research on the crush sleeve...
I didn't do much "banging" with the air impact gun...
Soo If I am lucky the crush sleeve is still the same length.
Correct me if Im wrong but....
If I pull out the rear axle's than I can remove the carrier.
Now I can fasten the nut carfully step by step when holding the yoke.
Measuring every time I fasten the nut a bit more how much torque is needed to spin the pinionshaft (without holding the yoke off course!):waytogo:

Only problem... I can't check if the crush sleeve is still doing it's job or if it's just loose between the bearings....:confused:

Antbody know what the MFG spec. is for rotating the pinion shaft??
I found several specs. but which one is the correct one....
30"/pound !?!?
(By the way the diff is 200 K old....)

And how much torque is needed for the carrier bearing cap bolts?

Or I have to add a shim between the crush sleeve and the upper bearing....and crush it a bitt more!?!?

(These crush sleeve's are hard to find over here in NL!):doah:

Why didn't I just by a Suzuki....?:rolleyes:
 
You can check the pre-load of the crush sleeve that is in there now. Remove the axles and carrier and check rotational torque of the pinion. I dont know the spec off hand, but Yeah probably around 20-30 inch/lb. A dial type torque wrench is what you need.

If you have to do a new one its the same check over and over as you tighten the pinion nut little by little. The torque goes up very quickly after the crush sleeve begins to crush.

Did you get the correct tailshaft bushing?
 
Did you get the correct tailshaft bushing?
Click to expand...

I didn't recieve the tailshaft bushing yet...takes about 2 or 3 weeks before I recieve parts from the USA.:doah:
And the shipping costs more than the products....!:whistle:
I sure hope I ordered the right one!
They only come in different shapes, not in different sizes ??

Hopefully I'll recieve it before the weekend so I can do everything at the same time.

I read a story about adding a cup a TF to the diff.lub to prevent foaming of the dif.lub?
I have the CV shaft so I turned the cone of the diff. up to aline the drive shaft so the upper bearing is getting a bit less oil I geuss...
What's your opinion on that...?

Does someone know the MFG spec for rotating the pinion shaft for sure? Or the torque for the carrier bearing cap bolts?:dunno:
 
I recieved the tailshaft bearing, bushing and seal today for the transcase.
So I have something to do this weekend...!:waytogo:
Also found a guy who can help me fit a new crush sleeve in the dif.

(Just for info the ball bearing is a 6207C3 bearing and this is a very common used bearing)
 
Just for info...

I repaired the vibration problem last weekend.
The problem was clearance in the splines of the yoke shaft en rearend output shaft in combination with clearance of the tailcone bushing.
Replaced the bushing and the seal.

Also repaired the the dif with a new crush sleeve set to about 10 inch preload.
And the dif bearing caps set on 70 Newton meter.
Put some new dif oil and the job was done. :waytogo:

Thank for the help guys!
 
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