At this point doesn't matter, any gear is good enough to see if you have a problem.
I doubt internally anything is wrong
CK5
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Transfer Case 101 for a newbie
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
I doubt internally anything is wrong
I agree, we need to get it to move. Judging by the twin stick shift pattern, unlock/2wd is with the inner rod all the way out.
I would lock the front hubs, pull both shift levers all the way out, inner first, and it should drive off. If not, try shifting the inner rod all the way in.
But it should drive either way.
I would lock the front hubs, pull both shift levers all the way out, inner first, and it should drive off. If not, try shifting the inner rod all the way in.
But it should drive either way.
I am sorry but I believe inner is loc and it will not go in loc until the outside lever is in position first.
You're the expert. Like I say, its been 30 years since I worked on one, and almost 20 since I even rode in one.
I was going by the shift pattern plates in that twin stick kit.
It showed the inner being the loc lever, which I think is what you are saying, and showed it in the unloc or 2wd position with the lever pulled back.
Which would pull the shaft out.
I was wanting to put the case in the unloc position and high range for his tryout. Also have the front hubs turned in case it had not been converted.
Plus, I was thinking it would not go into the gears past neutral with the loc lever in loc. I may be wrong about that, but that was why I said do the inner first.
While it would seem smarter to put the transfer case in Loc to make sure it moves, he is not familiar with drivetrain binding from driving on hard surface roads with the system in full loc, and I did not want him to think he had more problems when he discovered he could not shift.
I figure we can work him to the more advanced lessons in four wheeling after we get him rolling.......
I was going by the shift pattern plates in that twin stick kit.
It showed the inner being the loc lever, which I think is what you are saying, and showed it in the unloc or 2wd position with the lever pulled back.
Which would pull the shaft out.
I was wanting to put the case in the unloc position and high range for his tryout. Also have the front hubs turned in case it had not been converted.
Plus, I was thinking it would not go into the gears past neutral with the loc lever in loc. I may be wrong about that, but that was why I said do the inner first.
While it would seem smarter to put the transfer case in Loc to make sure it moves, he is not familiar with drivetrain binding from driving on hard surface roads with the system in full loc, and I did not want him to think he had more problems when he discovered he could not shift.
I figure we can work him to the more advanced lessons in four wheeling after we get him rolling.......
So we are on the same page, the loc has to be in neutral position which is unloc for any gear engagement.
If unlocked it doesn't move try loc in case it doesn't have the part time kit
Ok, I have Tcase all the way forward Hubs locked. It went into Drive and Reverse fine. Put Tcase into Hi loc went into gear and moved.
And as luck would have it another issue arose.
The issue now is when shifting Park to Drive or up to Reverse the truck seems to jump or buck into the gear selected. Never did this before, truck is warm about 180-ish. The truck does leak tranny fluid and its just getting worse, maybe low fluid would cause this? I dont know if it shifts this way while moving. It always shjfted smooth while driving and bucked a little from Park to Reverse to Drive but not like today.
If my shifter is lined up properly it bucked in LO LOC and HI LOC... or whatever the equivalent would be for the part time conversion.
But from Garage start to warm it jumps into gear. It jumped enough to squeek the wheels from Reverse to Drive
Image of where the linkage was when it finally moved to D R etc
And as luck would have it another issue arose.
The issue now is when shifting Park to Drive or up to Reverse the truck seems to jump or buck into the gear selected. Never did this before, truck is warm about 180-ish. The truck does leak tranny fluid and its just getting worse, maybe low fluid would cause this? I dont know if it shifts this way while moving. It always shjfted smooth while driving and bucked a little from Park to Reverse to Drive but not like today.
If my shifter is lined up properly it bucked in LO LOC and HI LOC... or whatever the equivalent would be for the part time conversion.
But from Garage start to warm it jumps into gear. It jumped enough to squeek the wheels from Reverse to Drive
Image of where the linkage was when it finally moved to D R etc
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Secondly,
Now that it’s driving, do I keep the Hubs Locked or not if Locked what gear in 203. If unlocked what gear in the 203 do I daily drive in, or city drive in?
Why the heck did it not move? Binding or something in the Tcase? Im going to drain and fill with fresh oil.
Ive read a million opinions. So is it 10w-40 regular or synthetic or straight 30w?
Now that it’s driving, do I keep the Hubs Locked or not if Locked what gear in 203. If unlocked what gear in the 203 do I daily drive in, or city drive in?
Why the heck did it not move? Binding or something in the Tcase? Im going to drain and fill with fresh oil.
Ive read a million opinions. So is it 10w-40 regular or synthetic or straight 30w?
Looks like you finally got it in low range, go compare to the pictures that I posted of mine, ignore the fact that I have a doubler, the range selection lever works the same.
The extra gear reduction makes a difference in how the truck reacts.
Take that piece of manure shifter off, throw it in scrap metal...
Try to see how the one on the other case works.
The extra gear reduction makes a difference in how the truck reacts.
Take that piece of manure shifter off, throw it in scrap metal...
Try to see how the one on the other case works.
What oil do I run in the Tcase? Ive read...
So the bucking is the truck reacting to the gear reduction in the Transfer case?
Yes. You can possibly adjust your idle speed down a little to lessen the effects some, but use your own judgment on that as it can affect power steering and other factors at low idle.
It looks like your front output isn't locked in to me, the lever position doesn't look proper for it to be locked.
You can use 10w-30 or 10w-40, just NOT gear oil. Some have used ATF before.
Linkage fell off I forgot to put the pins back in. It was more forward..... i think. I have more tests to run but at least ot moved.
It was a cold start so idle was higher. Usually its around warm park 1000rpm, drive 750ish-850 rpm drive. but was higher today because of weather.
Ill keep tinkering around find a way to tightern up that linkage, if possible. On the Tcase I just picked up the inner rod flange is flush to the trasnfer case. On mine its almost an inch away.
Thanks again for all your help. I still have to run it through all the detents Hubs Locked and unLocked. My maine goal today was just getting it to move.
Yep, thats classic low range behavior. Your idle may be a little high, but when you are in low range, the truck wants to move.
The next thing is to determine if you have the kit or not, and get the shifter either replaced or adjusted correctly.
Once we get the shifter working right, we can determine the kit status by locking and unlocking the hubs in different gears.
As for the oil, I run synthetic 85W90 in my 205, but you do NOT want to run that in a 203 because it needs a thinner oil to lube the chain and get pumped to the rear gears.
There are enough folks here with 203s to give good advice. Personally, which ever they recommend I would use a synthetic version of it.
@Fordum , the 203 doesn't need a shifter on it to find out if there is a part time kit in it. Going directly to the shift levers on the case eliminates ANY chance that the shifter is wrong, or screwed up from any dirt, damage or whatever, which is why I suggested disconnecting it days ago.
If the hubs are unlocked and the transmission is in park with the truck NOT able to roll due to the rear output being in gear with the range lever, but the front output lever in the unlocked position, the front driveshaft won't turn if it doesn't have a part time kit. It will just rock back and forth some. This is because differential in the rear of the T-case will not allow it to turn.
It's just like a rear axle differential, if you hold 2 shafts, the 3rd one can't turn.
If a part time kit is installed, the front output will turn and just have the drag of the chain and bearings, until the lock lever is pulled forward.
I personally wouldn't put synthetic oil in this case if there is a chance that it may not stay in the truck. It has been running for decades with conventional oil in it, and if it is as dirty as it sounds, you will want to change it sooner for somewhat of a flush, AFTER you decide if it is going to stay in the truck. ( I have noticed the other threads. )
If the hubs are unlocked and the transmission is in park with the truck NOT able to roll due to the rear output being in gear with the range lever, but the front output lever in the unlocked position, the front driveshaft won't turn if it doesn't have a part time kit. It will just rock back and forth some. This is because differential in the rear of the T-case will not allow it to turn.
It's just like a rear axle differential, if you hold 2 shafts, the 3rd one can't turn.
If a part time kit is installed, the front output will turn and just have the drag of the chain and bearings, until the lock lever is pulled forward.
I personally wouldn't put synthetic oil in this case if there is a chance that it may not stay in the truck. It has been running for decades with conventional oil in it, and if it is as dirty as it sounds, you will want to change it sooner for somewhat of a flush, AFTER you decide if it is going to stay in the truck. ( I have noticed the other threads. )
Sure, you don't need the shifters hooked up for that. I was trying to take some of the work off the guy. With the stock shifter hooked up properly, or better yet, with a good twin stick, He can do most all the testing inside the cab. And does not have to crawl under to shift it to the different positions.
And it might be a little easier to tell which its in with the levers.
Plus, we have asked him to turn the shaft so many times so far, my idea was going to be to unlock the hubs and see if the truck would pull off with the Loc unlocked. If so it would have a kit.
As for the synthetic,
you are right about the flush. I would pour a cheap 10W30HD in, drive it around for a while, then dump that.
If its still nasty, maybe another flush.
But once its clean, and looks like its found a home, I still say wind up with synthetic......
And it might be a little easier to tell which its in with the levers.
Plus, we have asked him to turn the shaft so many times so far, my idea was going to be to unlock the hubs and see if the truck would pull off with the Loc unlocked. If so it would have a kit.
As for the synthetic,
you are right about the flush. I would pour a cheap 10W30HD in, drive it around for a while, then dump that.
If its still nasty, maybe another flush.
But once its clean, and looks like its found a home, I still say wind up with synthetic......
Found why the inner linkage is so wobbly...
This inner snap ring is what Im missing.
Could that make such a significant difference in accuracy of the shift into gears? Im sure GM put it there for a reason, probably to prevent what Im experiencing...
This inner snap ring is what Im missing.
Could that make such a significant difference in accuracy of the shift into gears? Im sure GM put it there for a reason, probably to prevent what Im experiencing...
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Found why the inner linkage is so wobbly...
This inner snap ring is what Im missing.
Could that make such a significant difference in accuracy of the shift into gears? Im sure GM put it there for a reason, probably to prevent what Im experiencing...
View attachment 319761
My biggest hurdle or one of them is I have no frame of reference with how this Tcase is “supposed” to shift. So it may be correct but I don’t know.
I put new oil in the Tcase this morning. But not being able to fire it up on account of waiting on tranny filter, who knows.
I will clean up the other shifter and put that one on. Just to see if that can clean up the shifts. If not, then its in the Tcase itself.
I searched high and low for “np203 shifting” and any other title, to see this Tcase shifted into other gears for a reference point, but these videos do not exist.
I’ll be back when I swap out the shifter or if any of you know somebody in or around Gilbert AZ that may know or can swing by house, that would be, just swell.
I put new oil in the Tcase this morning. But not being able to fire it up on account of waiting on tranny filter, who knows.
I will clean up the other shifter and put that one on. Just to see if that can clean up the shifts. If not, then its in the Tcase itself.
I searched high and low for “np203 shifting” and any other title, to see this Tcase shifted into other gears for a reference point, but these videos do not exist.
I’ll be back when I swap out the shifter or if any of you know somebody in or around Gilbert AZ that may know or can swing by house, that would be, just swell.
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For your viewing pleasure. It still is rough. Just check it out. The last 30seconds or so I just run through the gears over and over. It seems no better or worse. Once I get the tranny back together. We’ll see how it shifts and if all the detents work with Hubs locked and Unlocked...
I may just have to put in the other one and just see how it goes. I cant afford the jack and ORD shifters, just yet.
Its just too steep $$ right now.
I may just have to put in the other one and just see how it goes. I cant afford the jack and ORD shifters, just yet.
Its just too steep $$ right now.
Yeah you need to adjust the rods.
When it's in neutral it's not aligned right which is why you can't get it in all five positions.
Too bad I don't have a 203 anymore to show you how to do it.
All I can do is try to walk you or talk you through it.
