I think I have enough room, 4” lift and 37’s. I have a lo profile jack. Plus another jack if needed... shi$ looks sketchy to do. Not really looking forward to doing this. 
CK5
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Transfer case compatibility
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
Im a bit sketched with the adapter thing. These look more stable, any input? Which one would you guys trust?
This is all I've ever used...replaces the saddle on a floor jack..
The "real" transmission jacks of course are more stable being wider,and have a better platform,but I never felt the need to borrow one,many friends have professional ones ,ranging all the way up to ones big enough to handle a semi truck transmission..
The "real" transmission jacks of course are more stable being wider,and have a better platform,but I never felt the need to borrow one,many friends have professional ones ,ranging all the way up to ones big enough to handle a semi truck transmission..
I read somewhere here where someone suggested this "hydraulic table cart" from Harbor Freight. If it's sturdy, it seems like a great idea and would almost eliminate the possibility of heavy parts falling off plus it has a range from 9.25" to 17.50".
https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-61405.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-61405.html
I think I have enough room to get it out...
thoughts?
thoughts?
Looks like you should have plenty off room. Just don't forget that the 203 and gravity both want to kill you.
On a side note, those spacers between the frame and crossmember should be above the frame. Some folks move them down between like that in an attempt to lower the tcase and improve rear driveshaft angle but they actually make the front shafts angle worse and can cause cracking on the frame rail if the crossmember take a hit off road.
On a side note, those spacers between the frame and crossmember should be above the frame. Some folks move them down between like that in an attempt to lower the tcase and improve rear driveshaft angle but they actually make the front shafts angle worse and can cause cracking on the frame rail if the crossmember take a hit off road.
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I use an ATV jack just because I bought one when no body in the area had a transmission jack when I needed one. They are cheap and work well. Also once you get it lowered down under the truck, you can always jack the truck up for extra clearance. I often let the air out of the tires to work on it and get it ready then air back up and jack it up more if needed. But then I have 37's and 8 inches or so of lift. Safety is key, ratchet straps if nothing else help.
I was looking at those, similar to a motorcycle jack?
Liking the size size of what the Tcase would set on.
I wonder how high it goes?
get all 3 and then give us a comparison test 
Shi&....I wish..get all 3 and then give us a comparison test
Holy f... just went and got the spare np203, sure aint no joke the weight on that thing.
The linkage feels more firm and has a slightly different set up than my present one, spacer of some kind between inner and outer rod, with. It came from a 74” k5 with a th350.
With that said, what are things I can do with it out that will tell me it’s good, other than the sellers words? Both places where the drive shafts link up, spin clean with no noises are oddness, shift linkage engages far better than what is in my truck now.
The linkage feels more firm and has a slightly different set up than my present one, spacer of some kind between inner and outer rod, with. It came from a 74” k5 with a th350.
With that said, what are things I can do with it out that will tell me it’s good, other than the sellers words? Both places where the drive shafts link up, spin clean with no noises are oddness, shift linkage engages far better than what is in my truck now.
My present one is the green one, I noctice where the front drive shaft engages the mounting bracket is different than the one I just picked up.
First, the spacer in between the brackets is a must, if your old one didn't have it it explains why they were wobbly.
The yoke on the driveshafts can be swapped if you don't want to change driveshafts.
I prefer the flanges over the yokes but match what you have on the truck
As for the Jack they all work, I have the 2000lb one and it's the best but it's also $300
The 800lbs that is for $165 is more than enough for you but the $99 Jack will do fine.
If you can afford the $165 you're better off
The 800lbs that is for $165 is more than enough for you but the $99 Jack will do fine.
If you can afford the $165 you're better off
When pulled the factory 203 out of my 77 I used a floor jack no adapter. It fell off, missed me luckily. A 205 went back.
I have the HF trans jack the big one, iirc. Definitely worth the investment.
I have pulled trans mated to t case 3x. Goes in easy no swearing I can do it would a helper.
I have the HF trans jack the big one, iirc. Definitely worth the investment.
I have pulled trans mated to t case 3x. Goes in easy no swearing I can do it would a helper.
The one on my truck right now has no spacer. I cleaned up the one I picked up and saw the nut on the yoke.
The transfer case runs 10w-30 or 10w-40, regular or synthetic, and its filled until in comes out the fill hole, correct?
Looks good, yeah?
wasted wages
1 ton status
I've always run ATF in my 203's...
one less thing to worry about if the seals start to go bad in the adapter...
one less thing to worry about if the seals start to go bad in the adapter...
