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Transfer case options. Doubler or magnum

My local driveshaft shop is great and they will ship. Driveshaft specialist .com in San Antonio. The guy who you'll talk to is craig and he wheels a chevrolet.
Reason enough for me to buy from them lol

I build 4 or 5 a month with them. 100% perfect every time.

Tell them you were referred by Texas complete. Might help might not?
 
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mrk5 said:
Tom's website says $479 is the base price for a 1350 CV shaft. Don't know what the "base" model covers and if that number is up to date.
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Yeah mine was $580 with the drive flange and tax
 
For the gearing there is definitely some advantage to the Magnum or other 241 based range box mated to the 205. This gives you the 2.0 and 2.72 low range options, however there is not a huge difference between them. I highly doubt there are many, if any, situations where you can make an obstacle with the 2.0 low range and not the 2.72, or vice versa. For usefulness of the double low it just depends on how and where you wheel. Super dooper low ranges work good on low powered rigs (Suzuki Sami's, Toyotas) but there are some limits on anything with reasonable power except for hardcore technical rockcrawling. I've ran 34:1 with an auto on 40" tires for a long time with no issues. We don't have tons of technical rockcrawling but have been to Harlan and have ran Widowmaker in Slade/Natural Bridge many times. Ideally I would like it just a bit lower and I have a set of 5.13's to replace the 4.10's to put me at 42:1. This will give me a little bit more low range and then can hit 2nd gear in the trans for those times a little wheelspeed is needed.

Just to be clear, I think doublers and such are cool and are really useful for many people/vehicles. However I also think a lot of people spend the money to buy a doubler just so they have one, or they think it will really make the rig more capable but it doesn't. Kinda' like those guys who go and buy the new expensive golf clubs every year.....it doesn't make you a better golfer........ I personally know guys with doublers and multi-speed transfer cases (like the Atlas 4 speed) who rarely, if ever, use more than one low range selection. If I had my choice of any transfer case setup out there I would seriously consider just a single speed Atlas with a 3.0:1 or maybe 3.8:1 option. I run with a couple very hardcore off-roaders including a full tube buggy and he only runs 40:1 with an auto trans. Actually had a 3.8:1 Atlas and traded it for a 3.0:1 version because he had more than enough low range but couldn't get any wheelspeed when needed.
 
6.2Blazer said:
For the gearing there is definitely some advantage to the Magnum or other 241 based range box mated to the 205. This gives you the 2.0 and 2.72 low range options, however there is not a huge difference between them. I highly doubt there are many, if any, situations where you can make an obstacle with the 2.0 low range and not the 2.72, or vice versa. For usefulness of the double low it just depends on how and where you wheel. Super dooper low ranges work good on low powered rigs (Suzuki Sami's, Toyotas) but there are some limits on anything with reasonable power except for hardcore technical rockcrawling. I've ran 34:1 with an auto on 40" tires for a long time with no issues. We don't have tons of technical rockcrawling but have been to Harlan and have ran Widowmaker in Slade/Natural Bridge many times. Ideally I would like it just a bit lower and I have a set of 5.13's to replace the 4.10's to put me at 42:1. This will give me a little bit more low range and then can hit 2nd gear in the trans for those times a little wheelspeed is needed.

Just to be clear, I think doublers and such are cool and are really useful for many people/vehicles. However I also think a lot of people spend the money to buy a doubler just so they have one, or they think it will really make the rig more capable but it doesn't. Kinda' like those guys who go and buy the new expensive golf clubs every year.....it doesn't make you a better golfer........ I personally know guys with doublers and multi-speed transfer cases (like the Atlas 4 speed) who rarely, if ever, use more than one low range selection. If I had my choice of any transfer case setup out there I would seriously consider just a single speed Atlas with a 3.0:1 or maybe 3.8:1 option. I run with a couple very hardcore off-roaders including a full tube buggy and he only runs 40:1 with an auto trans. Actually had a 3.8:1 Atlas and traded it for a 3.0:1 version because he had more than enough low range but couldn't get any wheelspeed when needed.
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I agree and disagree with you on some of your points. I agree that some people really don't need any sort of doubler. It really depends on the use of your rig. I ran a SYE241 for years (even with 44" boggers for 2 years, at a 39:1 crawl ratio). It worked fine, but was not ideal. It didn't stop me from wheeling as I did a lot with it. However, now going from a single case to a Titan/205 in my truck, I believe it made a world of difference. In more of a "trail-rig" that see's many different types of terrain, you find yourself wanting different gear ratios a lot depending on what you are hitting. In the real technical rock crawling stuff, double low is so fantastic it's not even funny. However, when I then go snow wheeling, 2:1 or 2.72:1 are far better. And yes, I can tell a difference between the two gear selections. You can "think" it's too close to tell all you want, but until you experience it, you won't know.

Those full tube buggies, especially rock bouncers build their rig around one crawl ratio on purpose, because they want to keep a certain tire speed in the meat of the power curve of their motor. And simply the way they are built is very, very different then a trail rig. Therefore, the way you drive them is very different too. And therefore, your desire's for certain gear ratios will be different. It's like trying to compare rolling an orange down a hill, and then rolling a bowling ball down a hill and expecting they will react the same...it's just not the same.

I had the same feelings as you before I ever went to a "doubler" type system. I thought it wasn't really needed and it was kinda a waste of money cause look at all the wheeling I could do and obstacles I could get over with just a SYE241. But now that I have done it, I will say it truly changed the whole characteristics of how the truck performs and how I'm able to drive lines. Before, in certain situations I would have to hit something harder to make the obstacle, that now I'm able to crawl because I have much more control. You can call BS all you want on that statement, but like I said, until you experience it, you will never know.
 
I would pretty much echo what @Kay86K5 has already said above. I can absolutely tell the difference between the 1.96 and 2.72, in fact I don't even use the 1.96 hardly at all. I don't miss bumping obstacles when I can go double low and crawl my way through them and not worry about shocking the drivetrain and potentially breaking something. For me and the type of wheeling this truck is built for the reduction box was probably the best modification I've done next to EFI.
 
chris85 said:
I’m probably one of those people that doesn’t need a doubler or may only use it very sparingly, but the Want is beating the Need.
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I am one of those who did all the technical stuff on rocks on the Rubicon trail without a doubler and without throttling through with a 205
I broke the frame, destroyed my clutch in a mud pit, destroyed a front cv because of bad angles.
Now I am building an overland vehicle and will be running a 241 and I believe I shouldn't need a doubler for that.
If I was to go back to rock crawling I might consider a doubler, but not for overlanding
 
imiceman44 said:
I am one of those who did all the technical stuff on rocks on the Rubicon trail without a doubler and without throttling through with a 205
I broke the frame, destroyed my clutch in a mud pit, destroyed a front cv because of bad angles.
Now I am building an overland vehicle and will be running a 241 and I believe I shouldn't need a doubler for that.
If I was to go back to rock crawling I might consider a doubler, but not for overlanding
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I should add, that k5 was my daily driver and I drove it to and from the trails.
 
After reading all your comments and doing some more research, I really want to keep my 241 and use it to make a doubler. I like the idea of having the different ratios and I can't wait to get it built so I can use it and experience it myself.
Would I like to have the Magnum with the 205, you bet. Do I need it? I don't have enough experience to justify saying "no". But since I already have the 241 why not start with that? I was looking forward to doing the 241 doubler build but as stated earlier, all the pics for that build are gone so the search continues.
 
With all that is being said in this thread, I am a true believer in building your rig in stages and enjoying it along the way. I've owned and been building my K5 for 6 years now, and it's seen so many different variations from drivetrain, suspension changes, to tire sizes. And in every stage I've wheeled it and had a blast with it. I finally feel like I've got my blazer exactly where I want it. But if I would have tried to build it to it's current stage all in one shot, I would have gone broke and probably would have lost interest in it (cause I hate throwing a ton of money at something and not even be able to use it...I'm doing that now with my crew cab build and it sucks, but luckily I can see the light at the end of the tunnel).

Does everyone really "need" a doubler/reduction box system? Maybe, or maybe not. If it doesn't fit into your budget right now, then don't do it now. Enjoy your rig in its current stage and if it's something you "want", then save it up for it do the mod when it's right for you
 
Kay86K5 said:
I agree and disagree with you on some of your points. I agree that some people really don't need any sort of doubler. It really depends on the use of your rig. I ran a SYE241 for years (even with 44" boggers for 2 years, at a 39:1 crawl ratio). It worked fine, but was not ideal. It didn't stop me from wheeling as I did a lot with it. However, now going from a single case to a Titan/205 in my truck, I believe it made a world of difference. In more of a "trail-rig" that see's many different types of terrain, you find yourself wanting different gear ratios a lot depending on what you are hitting. In the real technical rock crawling stuff, double low is so fantastic it's not even funny. However, when I then go snow wheeling, 2:1 or 2.72:1 are far better. And yes, I can tell a difference between the two gear selections. You can "think" it's too close to tell all you want, but until you experience it, you won't know.

Those full tube buggies, especially rock bouncers build their rig around one crawl ratio on purpose, because they want to keep a certain tire speed in the meat of the power curve of their motor. And simply the way they are built is very, very different then a trail rig. Therefore, the way you drive them is very different too. And therefore, your desire's for certain gear ratios will be different. It's like trying to compare rolling an orange down a hill, and then rolling a bowling ball down a hill and expecting they will react the same...it's just not the same.

I had the same feelings as you before I ever went to a "doubler" type system. I thought it wasn't really needed and it was kinda a waste of money cause look at all the wheeling I could do and obstacles I could get over with just a SYE241. But now that I have done it, I will say it truly changed the whole characteristics of how the truck performs and how I'm able to drive lines. Before, in certain situations I would have to hit something harder to make the obstacle, that now I'm able to crawl because I have much more control. You can call BS all you want on that statement, but like I said, until you experience it, you will never know.
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I don't disagree with the majority of your quote, and never intended to sound that way in my previous post. Hence why I specified that it is helpful to some people and just bragging rights to some others. A big factor is always where and how you wheel. There are a lot of hardcore guys like yourself out there that benefit from modifications like doublers and such. Keep in mind I also said there wasn't a BIG difference between 2:1 and 2.72:1, and never mentioned the double-low. I do agree that the double-low can make a big difference on certain obstacles. Obviously you have first hand experience and are providing some really good comments about how it helped. You also sound pretty reasonable on how you built the rig. However I will still say that a large number of people do certain modifications just because the internet tells them to and it sounds cool......maybe nobody on this page but after wheelin' for 20+ years I have seen it a lot. Can't count how many times I've shown up at a trailride in my dented up and spray painted K5 and had to listen to Mr. "I just bought my fully built blinged out $40,000 rig off eBay but have never been off a graded dirt road" brag about it and roll their eyes at mine. Pretty funny when I walk all over the obstacles and wind up pulling him back to the parking lot.
 
wheels87k5 said:
After reading all your comments and doing some more research, I really want to keep my 241 and use it to make a doubler. I like the idea of having the different ratios and I can't wait to get it built so I can use it and experience it myself.
Would I like to have the Magnum with the 205, you bet. Do I need it? I don't have enough experience to justify saying "no". But since I already have the 241 why not start with that? I was looking forward to doing the 241 doubler build but as stated earlier, all the pics for that build are gone so the search continues.
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Another thing to keep in mind if you have the overhead is the 241 is a desirable case by itself so it has some resale value. Buy the Eco and scrap a driver drop 241 (which are cheap and not very desirable) and sell your current 241 to offset some of the cost. Same outcome without scrapping a good 241, and much simpler than fabbing a 241/205 from scratch.
 
6.2Blazer said:
I don't disagree with the majority of your quote, and never intended to sound that way in my previous post. Hence why I specified that it is helpful to some people and just bragging rights to some others. A big factor is always where and how you wheel. There are a lot of hardcore guys like yourself out there that benefit from modifications like doublers and such. Keep in mind I also said there wasn't a BIG difference between 2:1 and 2.72:1, and never mentioned the double-low. I do agree that the double-low can make a big difference on certain obstacles. Obviously you have first hand experience and are providing some really good comments about how it helped. You also sound pretty reasonable on how you built the rig. However I will still say that a large number of people do certain modifications just because the internet tells them to and it sounds cool......maybe nobody on this page but after wheelin' for 20+ years I have seen it a lot. Can't count how many times I've shown up at a trailride in my dented up and spray painted K5 and had to listen to Mr. "I just bought my fully built blinged out $40,000 rig off eBay but have never been off a graded dirt road" brag about it and roll their eyes at mine. Pretty funny when I walk all over the obstacles and wind up pulling him back to the parking lot.
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I think a big difference here being a lot of us guys have done the same with our beat to shit rigs.

I’ve had trucks in some nasty places where 90:1 was needed
 
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