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Transmission cooler install location

BoondocK5

BoondocK5

Chevrolet Bone Collector
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I want to install this on the RH inner fender, under the hood.
But, I got to thinking about all the heat already under the hood, any thoughts from the brethren?

20240224_173435.jpg
 
I’d be curious to see what the running under hood temperature actually is. My guess is that it’s still lower the the trans temp

The obvious answer is in front of the radiator support, which is a bit of a turd to plumb and install
 
I'm planning on using this cooler as a "stand alone" trans cooler. I don't want anything other than the AC condenser infront of the radiator.
So, it's either, on the RH inner fender, or back in the bed of the truck. Under the truck is not an option. I'm afraid of wrecking it.
 
I have mine under the bed near where the right muffler tail pipe area. Been very safe there.
The Derale thermostat switch might not last, be sure to wire in a manual by pass. The one I used quit in 6 months controlling the ground signal of the fan relay.
Which remote cover and what trans.?
 
This one says it can be a puller or pusher.
I'm going to wire it with relay, so I can not bother with the ground side out near the cooler itself.

20240225_135343.jpg

20240225_135410.jpg
 
maybe it was the series I use it is 13800 which they no longer list, and I see 13850 is also reversible
Screenshot 2024-02-25 at 14-19-43 (22 unread) - jwhardenus@yahoo.com - Yahoo Mail.png

Reply from Derale when I asked for a pusher fan. Iirc I wrote telling them a puller was of no use to me.

I used the temp sensor switch as relay control on ground side. It absolutely will not hold up to the current draw for the fan. Even then it only lasted 6 months or so. I think wrote about it in my thread.

edit I just double checked I am using the 13870 Hyper-Cool Extreme
 
While I am sure that 12731 cooler is great when including the radiator cooler, I am not sure it has enough capacity for stand alone trans cooler. Is only rated at 6000 btu, and when air to oil coolers are need most they are the least efficient.
The cooler I used for stand alone is 67000 btu. Pulling an 8% grade with light trailer in 90° weather my temps got up to 220° for a few minutes. Minf this was also running the Derale cool pan for my trans with added 2+ quarts. I have noticed the pan is good for at 10° cooling on hot days and as much 25° on cooler days. Above 40 mph. I had to go back to stock to clear my front shaft. My stuff doesn't match and gm never assembled my trans and t case together. Your results may vary. I recommend the pan if you have the clearance. I have one on my 01 burb now.
IMG_20221007_121057.jpg
 
Curious, are you going to use the cooler in the radiator in conjunction with the the air cooled cooler?

Under the hood would be the most protected area..

Can you get some cold air on the cooler,?

Mine has fender+ hood louvers for extra air movement
 
I know my under hood temps get Hot as F, I had been considering hood louvers. @K5Devil tells me they are PITA to paint and nobody in town does them.
 
Wes Harden said:
I know my under hood temps get Hot as F, I had been considering hood louvers. @K5Devil tells me they are PITA to paint and nobody in town does them.
Click to expand...
Hood/fender louvers make a tremendous difference in under hood ambient temps.
They came stock on FJ40 Land Cruisers ( actually two sets - back of hood on top and side fenders ) and even in the brutal Florida heat after work’n the motor ( 350 Chevy ) in deep sand for long periods of time a lot of the other 4WD’s would pop their hoods once we stopped ( none were overheating ) to let the under hood temps get some relief but the trucks with hood louvers cooled off without the need for an open hood.
They are very effective!
 
No, I will not be using the trans cooler in the radiator. The cooler I bought should be big enough to cool the TH400.
I've actually considered some type opening for fresh air.
 
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I suppose maybe, I have my doubts. It is going to depend on stall of torque converter and weight of truck. My cooler is 10x bigger, and I have a lock up converter, so much less heat developed, I figure no less than 6k weight. My road temps are @ 165°, just the truck at 65-75 mph in 90°ish degree weather
 
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After hearing these thoughts on the matter, I've reconsidered my stance on the transcooler in the radiator, and will use it in conjunction with this cooler I've purchased. Just makes sense.
Thank you all, especially @Wes Harden
 
I have looked at this issue a bit read a bunch, there is a crap pile of misinformation on the net.
Now I am not saying this is gospel, only my own understanding.
The heat in an auto Trans comes from the slippage in in the torque converter,and pressure pump. There are many who believe the radiator cooler is to warm up the Trans oil. I believe this to be bogus info. The oil leaves the torque converter at what I am betting is much higher temperature than normal running coolant Temps. Where it is cooled to 180-200°, then returns to the Trans to work the clutches and pistons, then drains into the pan. Most oil temperatures are measured in the pan, so this is an average temperature.
Many opinions on to cool or not. I am undecided. We all know engine oil needs to be 180° to reduce wear. Now why would atf be different? I am unsure. My stock 4l80e in my 01 ran just under coolant Temps, with factory cooler configuration. @195° by factory gauges.I added the Derale cool pan, pictured above, the Trans Temps now run @155-165°, and takes some time to get there. All else is factory.
Just some thoughts, and I welcome any all thoughts theories or studies oil Trans oil cooling.
 
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Wes Harden said:
I have looked at this issue a bit read a bunch, there is a crap pile of misinformation on the net.
Now I am not saying this is gospel, only my own understanding. The heat in an auto Trans comes from the slippage in in the torque conveter,and pressure pump.
There are many who believe the radiator cooler is to warm up the Trans oil. I believe this to be bogus info.
The oil leaves the torque converter at what I am betting is much higher temperature than normal running coolant Temps. Where it is cooled to 180-200°, then returns to the Trans to work the clutches and pistons, then drains into the pan.
Most oil temperatures are measured in the pan, so this is an average temperature.
Many opinions on to cool or not. I am undecided. We all know engine oil needs to be 180° to reduce wear. Now why would atf be different? I am unsure.
My stock 4l80e in my 01 ran just under coolant Temps, with factory cooler configuration. @195° by factory guages.
I add the derale cool pan, pictured above, the Trans Temps now run @155-165°, and takes some time to get there. All else is factory.
Just some thoughts, and I welcome any all thoughts theories or studies oil Trans oil cooling.
Click to expand...
Back in the late 80’s and early 90’s I cut my automotive teeth working at a transmission shop and Wes’ info is right on point !
Every single trans built got a hefty cooler plumbed after the radiator cooler - the rad cooler took the initial bite off of the temps and the air cooler brought it down to where it needed to be which was a target point of a consistent 180* and never to go above 220* under hard towing duty in the heat of summer.

Being in the south down on the Gulf Coast we never had to worry about over cooling much but we would always tell the drag racing crowds to let the trans temp get to at least 160* before the abuse began.

Hope this helps, Tom
 
This is great information, guys.
I'm glad we ended up here.

BUT, I'm still at a standstill as where to mount said cooler.

I will have some hose made with ends to mate the -6AN on the cooler and whatever the radiator fittings are for the 8.1.
 
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