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Trimming fenders to fit tires . . .

Deuling said:
That hurts me. :doah:
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Adam even by Michigan standards that truck was rusty. We stopped some of it but it needed dang near everything no actual large holes in the floors but if I would have hit em with a hammer there would have been. Needed a new tail pan, new floors,new rockers, new fenders, inner fenders, new tailgate and new lower bedsides. That's too much to fix
 
35" tires on stock wheels. No lift. No rear fender trimming. Very little front trimming. Would still rub the inner fenders a little bit but I didn't care as long as it was smooth surface that the tire was touching and not something that could damage it.



 
Mastiff said:
Someone please manufacture an inner/outer kit we can bolt on!
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I know it. These trucks have been getting lifted and receiving bigger tires for 4 decades. There have been aftermarket fenders getting stamped for at least 3. It's hard to believe nobody ever tooled up some fenders with bigger wheel openings. There was a company doing fiberglass ones, but they are radically different and also flared out a lot wider - basically for pre-runners. Who wants to invest in CK5 fenders, Inc?

I used to rub some undersized 33's with 4" lift. But never with the sway bar on. You have to keep the tire tucked in with low backspacing to play the bigger tire no lift game, I guess.
 
The tub at the rear and the radiator support at the front prevent you from getting too big without cutting them as well.

Martin
 
For sure, but a bolt on fender/inner could gain like 3" over the stock opening, which is like a 6" taller tire.
 
Blue85 said:
For sure, but a bolt on fender/inner could gain like 3" over the stock opening, which is like a 6" taller tire.
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I haven't looked that close at the rear. How much can you get away with there in stock form?

How do we get production going on these fenders? Count me in. :waytogo:
 
Ned Kelly said:
Muddermilitia, nice no lift setup. I like low.
Do you still run a front swaybar?
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Ummm.... nope :haha: That truck looks like this now:



I did run the sway bar back when it had no lift, then when it had 4" suspension lift. I eventually took it off and left it off. Then everything snowballed :doah:
 
Mastiff said:
I haven't looked that close at the rear. How much can you get away with there in stock form?

How do we get production going on these fenders? Count me in. :waytogo:
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With the right backspacing, you might be able to squeeze a 37 in the back with no lift. I think my 35s rubbed the inner tub in the back. But not by much and again, it's smooth metal so I had no problem letting the tire rub on that

And just for fun, this blazer has 44s with no lift. Sorry I dont have any more pics or info on it. I found this pic on the internet many many years ago

 
I was thinking in terms of how much tire you could take without hacking the sheet metal. There's no bolt-on solution for back there.

I had some 35x14.5x15's that would rub on the inner in back, but like you say, it didn't seem like a big thing since the tires weren't getting cut and no sheet metal wrinkled.
 
Hmmm . . .

muddermilitia said:
With the right backspacing, you might be able to squeeze a 37 in the back with no lift. I think my 35s rubbed the inner tub in the back. But not by much and again, it's smooth metal so I had no problem letting the tire rub on that

And just for fun, this blazer has 44s with no lift. Sorry I dont have any more pics or info on it. I found this pic on the internet many many years ago

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What kind of backspacing are we talking about? My factory's probably aren't right for that, need new wheels I guess.
 
I'm having a tough time thinking about the clearance issue. Looking at my K5, I have 12" of vertical distance between the top of the tire and the outer fender, which seems huge. I'm set up shock and bumpstop wise for 5" or so of uptravel, but clearly this doesn't tell the whole story. When the suspension twists, that tire can go right up in there. So even though my 35's look sort of puny with the lift, it doesn't appear to be going all to waste. I'm not sure how much lower I could go.

This is a skinny tire, so it can stuff inside the wheel well. A normal 12.5" tire probably would be close (I need to flex out with my new tires).

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The biggest problem, is that the axle comes back as the suspension cycles up, this usually causes problems with the tire hitting the back of the fender/firewall. Moving the axle forward helps this. But then you are getting into the front of the fender/bumper area. My truck only has about 4" lift but I'm running 42s and the axle is moved forward 2.5"s. We didn't cut very much of the back of the fender off. And it never hit the firewall or fender before we tapered the front sheetmetal
 
Somebody needs to start selling fenders like this:

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