That's brilliant. Gonna have to try that
CK5
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Truck dies when put into gear
- Thread starter lovebomb_69
- Start date
That's brilliant. Gonna have to try that
ummm, a "touch under 800" is not lower than a carb... technically, it's incorrect to adjust a TBI idle, not that you can't... but it CAN bring about other issues with the IAC and TPS..
and if your TBI is stalling, it's not due to low idle... EFI does EVERYTHING it can to continue running, while a carb looks for any excuse to not run..
lovebomb_69
Registered Member
Thanks for all the replies and useful advise. If it ever quits raining ill hopefully get this figured out now.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Its just my preference to have a higher idle. It used to stumble a bit crawling up stuff, so I fixed it. On mine, it does not effect anything else, just keeps the idle a touch higher than stock. And for us, a 600 rpm idle warm for a carb is perfect.
I've done it too on TBI's, just putting it out, that it is actually incorrect and can cause possible other issues, however remote they may be..
454Sub
5/8 ton status
And thanks for putting in your .02 for the OP. As your thoughts are very correct. I messed mine up the first time doing it. 
lovebomb_69
Registered Member
Got the idle down to 7-800. Messed with the vacuum lines it acts li e it wants to stay running in gear. But now its got a popping I'm the exhaust and takes a lot of throttle to get it moving.
Maybe it jumped time??...timing chain may have jumped a tooth or two,that could cause the popping and low power...does it crank over hard??..that can be a indication that happened..
lovebomb_69
Registered Member
Doesn't seem like its cranking hard. Figured checking the timing would be the next best step?
Yes,checking the ignition and valve timimg would be wise,if either are off,it could well be your problem..
I had a friends truck he bought "needing a motor" that barely ran,it backfired and spit back thru the carb,and had no power--he wanted to just rip out the engine and put another 350 he had sitting in his garage in it,but I talked him into looking over the original engine first...we found someone had put the distributor in "wrong" and had just turned the housing to get it timed close enough to run...when we turned the engine by hand so #1 was at TDC,the rotor was not pointing at the #1 plug wire in the cap,it was about halfway between #1 and #8!...pulling the distributor out and re-setting it with the drive gear in the right spot and timing it with a light made it run like new again...
Most small blocks wont jump time until the chain is so loose it will actually rub against the timing cover and eventually wear a hole in it...but just having enough slack in one can make the engine run poorly too..having the valve timing off just a few degrees can make it run lousy...
I had a friends truck he bought "needing a motor" that barely ran,it backfired and spit back thru the carb,and had no power--he wanted to just rip out the engine and put another 350 he had sitting in his garage in it,but I talked him into looking over the original engine first...we found someone had put the distributor in "wrong" and had just turned the housing to get it timed close enough to run...when we turned the engine by hand so #1 was at TDC,the rotor was not pointing at the #1 plug wire in the cap,it was about halfway between #1 and #8!...pulling the distributor out and re-setting it with the drive gear in the right spot and timing it with a light made it run like new again...
Most small blocks wont jump time until the chain is so loose it will actually rub against the timing cover and eventually wear a hole in it...but just having enough slack in one can make the engine run poorly too..having the valve timing off just a few degrees can make it run lousy...
