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Trying to keep it simple Suburban build

S

Simple91

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Hey all, been a lurker for a while but I am getting close to starting on my suburban so I figured it's time to sign up.

Its a 91 V1500 with a 6.2/700R4 235k on the odometer. it actually is the best riding vehicle in my fleet if you don't count the death wobble.
So far i have rebuilt the 241 with a slip yoke eliminator, got it painted, you are welcome neighbors, and bought new seat foam from LMC and upholstery from ACME and replaced the ten year old 31's with stock sized china tires. These tires are so Chinese my Chinese neighbor cant even pronounce the name plus the tiny tires help the GF get in, shes short.
I have a Dana 60 & 14B in the garage my thoughts are over built and under powered but it may just end up making it heavier. My second thought is rebuild and regear the 10 bolts and just cruise it.IMG_6022.JPG
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Weclome! Amazing how a fresh paint job improves things. What you do to build it up depends on what you want to do with it. A Dana 60/14bff combo would put in ones mind you actually want to wheel the truck. On the other hand, you said you might just regear the stock axles and cruise it.

So what are your thoughts? You have kind of a fairly uncommon setup stock. The 6.2 oil burner, especially in California is ripe for an engine swap if you are so inclined to go for a gasser. With a diesel title, you don't have to deal with the swap police from what I understand. If you plan on keeping the 6.2 and swap in the D60/14b you can bet you won't break anything.

Ultimately it's up to you. We'll help with the madness if you need it.
 
Ditch the 6.2. Unless you turbo it they are gutless. And prone to breakage.
Still, something about them...I have one.
10 bolts will do you fine for mild everyday use. If you're going rock climbing or overlanding you may want to step up to 1 tons.

There's literally millions of 10 bolts out there getting it done everyday.
 
Thanks guys, trying to keep it simple is the goal because so many of my projects get off track and become never ending money pits. Example I was going to freshen up my sons galaxie when he joined the Army, he will be out early next year and its still not done.
I will admit the 1 tons are pure cool factor and not necessary as I wont be doing anything more than moderate off roading it or ditching the 6.2. I'm in Southern California where you have to drive 4 hours to legally go off road and even then you wait in line behind hundreds of "overlanders" in their gladiators. As far as diesel title in California, yep its gold but you never know when they will change some rule. Years ago a buddy repowered his 6.2 2500 with a built gas motor then a few years later he got a notice of verification from the DMV essentially they wanted to make sure it was still a diesel? very odd but then again Cali is an odd place. Besides i like the 6.2, yep gutless and loud but amazing fuel economy. Big Ray is right millions of 10 bolts out there doing just fine, heck these have lasted 235K.
 
Simple91 said:
My second thought is rebuild and regear the 10 bolts and just cruise it
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compromise? you can probably sell the 60/14 for good money in CA. look for a 14 SF in 6 lug for the rear and keep your 10 bolt front. or you can get a 14 SF in 8 lug and just change out the outer parts to make your 10 bolt an 8 lug. then with the money from selling the 60/14 you can regear, add alloy axle shafts to the front and maybe even a couple of selectable lockers. I feel for your application (cruising, mild offroad, overland, camping) the 14 SF would be a worthwhile upgrade. I would also suggest that before you regear you decide what size tires you want to run and if you want any lift.
couple of guy on here that I know of have a couple of awesome diesel burbs: @AgDieseler and @AugustDiesel
@campfire and @KirsL are another couple of diesel guys and I am sure there are others
 
A 6.2 in a '91? That is a super rad combo. Personally I would leave it alone just for the cool factor. Maybe only a 2" lift w/ some 33's and some 15x10's.
 
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Welcome, cool burb congrats on the find


I second the 14bsf rear swap. That travel trailer will test the rear 10b.
 
fourwheelerjeff said:
compromise? you can probably sell the 60/14 for good money in CA. look for a 14 SF in 6 lug for the rear and keep your 10 bolt front. or you can get a 14 SF in 8 lug and just change out the outer parts to make your 10 bolt an 8 lug. then with the money from selling the 60/14 you can regear, add alloy axle shafts to the front and maybe even a couple of selectable lockers. I feel for your application (cruising, mild offroad, overland, camping) the 14 SF would be a worthwhile upgrade. I would also suggest that before you regear you decide what size tires you want to run and if you want any lift.
couple of guy on here that I know of have a couple of awesome diesel burbs: @AgDieseler and @AugustDiesel
@campfire and @KirsL are another couple of diesel guys and I am sure there are others
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I’ll either bolt in the 60/14 or stick with the 10 bolts use what I have already.
 
AgDieseler said:
Change your harmonic balancer, add a modest turbo like an HX35, and drive it. It’s a nice looking truck. I dig it.

David
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I’m pretty sure it’s not the original engine hopefully a low mileage drop in. I’m hoping a little bit more gear will help but a turbo on the list.
 
Love the truck. Doesn’t look like it has a speck of rust which makes it oh so valuable in my opinion.

I vote for swapping in the tons. Especially if they’re in good condition and don’t need to be rebuilt (even if they did).

Do you need them for your application? Probably not (but maybe someday). Will you ever have to worry with them? Never. Piece of mind has immeasurable value.

If you don’t add a turbo, then open up the intake and exhaust as much as possible. It makes a big difference in natural aspiration applications.
 
Base model, with base grille, but rear defrost. Odd combo. Is the SPID still there?

What does the interior look like?

I am jealous of that thing.

Martin
 
Looks good with paint!

Mind me asking what you paid for paint? Been working up a plan to DIY mine, but time priorities are ever changing.
 
AugustDiesel said:
Love the truck. Doesn’t look like it has a speck of rust which makes it oh so valuable in my opinion.

I vote for swapping in the tons. Especially if they’re in good condition and don’t need to be rebuilt (even if they did).

Do you need them for your application? Probably not (but maybe someday). Will you ever have to worry with them? Never. Piece of mind has immeasurable value.

If you don’t add a turbo, then open up the intake and exhaust as much as possible. It makes a big difference in natural aspiration applications.
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Exactly, I have them already. The front 60 was a good score the guy said it was a DRW axle so he sold it cheap but when I went to pick it up it was a SRW out of a CUCV. The rear came out of a buddies 2wd suburban that got hit in the front its a FF 14 bolt 3.73 open the front is 4.56 so I can get away with only changing one R&P but the ideal ratio is 4.10 but 3.73 will work.
 
82355 said:
Base model, with base grille, but rear defrost. Odd combo. Is the SPID still there?

What does the interior look like?

I am jealous of that thing.

Martin
Click to expand...
SPID? Interior is showing its age and the front bench has the usual damage from sliding out. I got the new upholstry from ACME through JEGS and im very impressed matches the blue exactly and is very heavy material.
 
dhcomp said:
Looks good with paint!

Mind me asking what you paid for paint? Been working up a plan to DIY mine, but time priorities are ever changing.
Click to expand...
Well as always it was a buddy deal. my paint guy took almost two years to complete my F250 so he made the biggest mistake a painter can make and said "I owe you one". I like to pay my own way though so it ended up being $3,300. It was a lot of material and a ton of sanding but it came out really well for a quick job even though I told him not to go overboard on the body he did anyway. It was straight and rust free to begin with.
 
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