CK5
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Trying to remove door pins?
- Thread starter 2_wacko
- Start date
Muddytazz
1 ton status
Just cut the pin and completely remove it and throw it away with the old worn out bushings. You get new pins with new bushings.
Muddytazz
1 ton status
When I did mine a while ago, I used a die grinder with a nibbler bit to get it 3/4's the way thru, then used a hammer and chisel and whammo, broke in half 
Oilbrnr
1/2 ton status
Does this usually bring the door back to the original alignment, or does some fiddling with the hinge need to happen as well?
K5Blazer28
1/2 ton status
I unbolted the doors then cut the old pins in half with a Sawsal, pushed them out. then just replaced them with all new pins/bushings. 
rwright07
1/2 ton status
"pushing them out" may not be as easy as it sounds.... dont ask me how i know
mine were bad. i unbolted the doors from the brackets and then cut the pins w/ a grinder, then "pushed them out" and replaced wiht my cool new removable pins
rick
mine were bad. i unbolted the doors from the brackets and then cut the pins w/ a grinder, then "pushed them out" and replaced wiht my cool new removable pins
rick
K5Blazer28
1/2 ton status
Well I literally "pushed them out" XD
OK so I cut them in half and removed them. Putting the new pins in gave me some problems the head of the pin will no go all the way down it sticks up some. Do I keep on beating it in I really don't want to make things worse 
.
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Muddytazz
1 ton status
The end of the pin next to the head has knurls on it. Also if you do not have the other end of the pin lined up with the holes in the hinge it will be a major pita. Make sure that the pin is lined up perfectly before hammering to hard.
slight hijack
how does everyone do a quick removable pin setup? Or a plug for the power stuff? I was thinking a small 7 pin trailer plug for the wires. Thoughts?
how does everyone do a quick removable pin setup? Or a plug for the power stuff? I was thinking a small 7 pin trailer plug for the wires. Thoughts?
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
im interested
, I need to pull my driver side door since it wont close properly atm :/.
make sure you read the removable door post in the tech articles section. i been wanting to do that for awhile. want to get start on it this summer at some point.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Am I the only one that noticed that it took three years to get the door pins out, or is there typo with the dates on the first few posts? Talk about a rough job!!
hahahaha. wow i totally missed that one.
good catch. are those bushings a PITA or what?!
good catch. are those bushings a PITA or what?!
Snowy Rivers
Registered Member
Here is the easy way to do pins and bushings on these trucks.
Open the window all the way.
With the door open, support the door with a winch strap, or suitable lifting rig from above.
**** SHADE TREE ***** works well
Now unbolt the door hinges and then carefully slide the door back just enough to access the hinges.
There is now zero stress on the hinges.
You can now carefully remove the pin locking keepers (if they are there)
Some pins have the ends swaged (little bumps)
Once the pins are out you can remove the bushings in the hinge and reinstall the new ones.
Make a note of where the bushings are and how they fit in and then install the new parts the same way.
DO NOT BEAT on this stuff with a hammer, you will bend it.
LIGHT ! ! ! ! tapping is ok
The new bushings can be easily installed using a "C" clamp as a press,
A pair of Vise Grip Tongs will work too.
Some bushings have splines or knurls on the OD to help hold them tight in the hinge.
A little time and care will result in a nice clean job that works like new and with minimal PITA.
Once the hinges are fixed, slide the door back into place, install the bolts, lign up the marks left in the paint and then CAREFULLY try the door for alingment.
You may have to adjust the door a little to get it perfect.
The whole truck moves, shifts and SAGS over time so this is a necessary step to get the doors back to the proper spot.
The striker pin (large BOLT device that the door locks onto when closed) is likely worn and the top of it shaved down too as well as the plastic bushing.
The plastic bushing is needed to make things work right. The bushing holds the door in alignment when closed.
The strikers on front doors are usually worn out. Rear doors on old Burbs at the bone yard are a great source of replacements
****** A WORD OF CAUTION*****
Before you remove the striker pin, drill a 5/32 or similar size hole close to the strker pin, through the sheetmetal and through the NUT PLATE that is behind it.
Now install a suitable sheetmetal screw or Tap the plate and install a little bolt (your choice)
The reason for this is simple
Many times the nut plate is no longer caged to the pillar and once you unscrew the striker
CLUNK
the plate falls to the bottom of the pillar and you have to tear the thing all apart to get to the little creature.
NOW
Install a good striker pin and finish the adjustment.
The secret is to align the door so it fits evenly all around the top and bottom of the opening and the body creases lign up like they did when the truck was new.
Once this is done and the door closes with a nice THUNK your done.
Just be careful while the door is loose and hanging on the support strap.
The wiring and the flex boot are vulnerable parts. They will stretch but not toooooooooooooooo far
OH BTW Ma General does not sell the original type striker or plastic bushiings any longer.
The stuff you will get are the ones for the GMT 400 trucks and they are not right.
LMC truck may have the correct parts ????
Snowy
Open the window all the way.
With the door open, support the door with a winch strap, or suitable lifting rig from above.
**** SHADE TREE ***** works well
Now unbolt the door hinges and then carefully slide the door back just enough to access the hinges.
There is now zero stress on the hinges.
You can now carefully remove the pin locking keepers (if they are there)
Some pins have the ends swaged (little bumps)
Once the pins are out you can remove the bushings in the hinge and reinstall the new ones.
Make a note of where the bushings are and how they fit in and then install the new parts the same way.
DO NOT BEAT on this stuff with a hammer, you will bend it.
LIGHT ! ! ! ! tapping is ok
The new bushings can be easily installed using a "C" clamp as a press,
A pair of Vise Grip Tongs will work too.
Some bushings have splines or knurls on the OD to help hold them tight in the hinge.
A little time and care will result in a nice clean job that works like new and with minimal PITA.
Once the hinges are fixed, slide the door back into place, install the bolts, lign up the marks left in the paint and then CAREFULLY try the door for alingment.
You may have to adjust the door a little to get it perfect.
The whole truck moves, shifts and SAGS over time so this is a necessary step to get the doors back to the proper spot.
The striker pin (large BOLT device that the door locks onto when closed) is likely worn and the top of it shaved down too as well as the plastic bushing.
The plastic bushing is needed to make things work right. The bushing holds the door in alignment when closed.
The strikers on front doors are usually worn out. Rear doors on old Burbs at the bone yard are a great source of replacements
****** A WORD OF CAUTION*****
Before you remove the striker pin, drill a 5/32 or similar size hole close to the strker pin, through the sheetmetal and through the NUT PLATE that is behind it.
Now install a suitable sheetmetal screw or Tap the plate and install a little bolt (your choice)
The reason for this is simple
Many times the nut plate is no longer caged to the pillar and once you unscrew the striker
CLUNK
the plate falls to the bottom of the pillar and you have to tear the thing all apart to get to the little creature.NOW
Install a good striker pin and finish the adjustment.
The secret is to align the door so it fits evenly all around the top and bottom of the opening and the body creases lign up like they did when the truck was new.
Once this is done and the door closes with a nice THUNK your done.
Just be careful while the door is loose and hanging on the support strap.
The wiring and the flex boot are vulnerable parts. They will stretch but not toooooooooooooooo far
OH BTW Ma General does not sell the original type striker or plastic bushiings any longer.
The stuff you will get are the ones for the GMT 400 trucks and they are not right.
LMC truck may have the correct parts ????
Snowy
Snowy Rivers
Registered Member
Here are some very close up detailed piccy's of the hinges
Hope this helps
Snowy
Hope this helps
Snowy
