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Tuff Country 4" lift

wheels87k5

wheels87k5

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Ordered a TC 4" lift today.....should be here in a week or so. I'll post up some before and after pics.

This is what is ordered:

4" lift springs for front and rear
New u-bolts
4 shocks...upgraded to the Nitros
Red boots for the shocks
New steering stabilizer
New steering arm
Kit includes brake line relocating brackets

Is there anything else I am missing for installing this on my 87 Blazer?

I was told the drive shaft did not have to be sized, and a sway bar drop down kit was not needed.

This Blazer is my daily driver, and I plan on doing some mudding....no rock crawling. So if there is anything I need to complete this set-up, let me know. I would like to have this lift completed in a couple of weeks.
 
4" lift

I put a 4" lift on my '87 K5 not long too long ago. One major issue I had was:

My friend sold me this lift off of his 89 K5. It worked perfectly on his. When installed on mine, it caused horrid shudden during braking. The lift included springs up front, blocks in rear.
My Blazer's suspension has around 200,000 miles on it. The sagging springs in the rear cuased an improper pinion angle. This wasn't a problem on my friend's truck because he his springs were not as sagged as mine.
This problem felt and acted just like a brake problem. It had several mechanics stumped. Thought I'd just throw this out there, just in case, becuase it gave me FITS.

Brandon
 
how much you spen on the lift? somthing that a novice could figure out installation wise? or pro installation recomended?

_matt
 
spray all the bolts that will be removed with pb blast or wd40 a couple days before you start tearing it down. Also dont bother reinstalling the swaybar. The suspension will flex better without it
 
So far, the cost of the 4" lift kit, counting shipping, is $900.00.

I'm replacing all u-joints, bushings, wheel bearings and seals.
 
well

Well, I had no idea what I was doing when I started, but it's all pretty much common sense. There aren't a lot of intricacies to the suspension in these old trucks, which is part of the reason I love them.
 
muddermilitia said:
have fun with the steering arm :D
Click to expand...


hahaha thats exactly what I was thinking while reading this...rofl :haha:




EDIT: Ok Wheels87K5...its not that bad... a pickle fork popped mine off but most guys will tell you to just beat it off with a BFH....just search for steering arm and read up while you're waitin' for the lift to arrive...
 
don't bother with the brake line relocator brackets...

get yourself a set of extended braided stainless steal brake lines. I guarenty that your original rubber lines have seen better days and now that you will be stretching them out all the time its only a matter of time before they will break. The stainless lines hold pressure better and are longer to make up for the lift. Search summit racing for skyjacker brake lines and order them. Thats what I run and I have never looked back.
 
You can just get swaybar quick disconntion instead of removing it. If you are going to drive it on the street a good amount of time you'll want to keep it installed.
 
cuervo said:
You can just get swaybar quick disconntion instead of removing it. If you are going to drive it on the street a good amount of time you'll want to keep it installed.
Click to expand...

false!
 
wheels87k5 said:
Ordered a TC 4" lift today.....should be here in a week or so. I'll post up some before and after pics.

This is what is ordered:

4" lift springs for front and rear
New u-bolts
4 shocks...upgraded to the Nitros
Red boots for the shocks
New steering stabilizer
New steering arm
Kit includes brake line relocating brackets

Is there anything else I am missing for installing this on my 87 Blazer?

I was told the drive shaft did not have to be sized, and a sway bar drop down kit was not needed.

This Blazer is my daily driver, and I plan on doing some mudding....no rock crawling. So if there is anything I need to complete this set-up, let me know. I would like to have this lift completed in a couple of weeks.
Click to expand...
You may have to clearance the front D-shaft CV joint. You'll need to check the rear D-shaft to pinion angle as well.
 
35dp said:
false!
Click to expand...

Not quite sure what you're refering to here...everyone knows you can get swaybar disco's so I'd assume you're talking about needing to keep it on...

It depends on how your suspension is setup... my springs are super stiff and I don't notice a huge difference with the swaybar on or off...BUT if you have a super soft suspension then you'll definately want to keep it on if you're on the street a lot...
 
Avery4jc said:
Not quite sure what you're refering to here...everyone knows you can get swaybar disco's so I'd assume you're talking about needing to keep it on...

It depends on how your suspension is setup... my springs are super stiff and I don't notice a huge difference with the sway bar on or off...BUT if you have a super soft suspension then you'll definitely want to keep it on if you're on the street a lot...
Click to expand...

What he said. I pulled mine due to the install of crossover steering. I have 6" TC springs up front, an ORD shackle reversal in the rear with 4" TC springs. Bilstein 5150 shocks all around with Ford shock towers up front. Without the sway bar, I have serious body roll due to the soft springs. I live with it but I sure do miss the sway bar when I am driving from the SF Bay Area out to Nevada to wheel. On the highway, especially in the twisty turns, the body lean is near scary. If you aren't going to do heavy duty wheeling, I'd go with the disconnects, or just leave it on. My buddy has an 86 pickup with 4" of lift and he just left his on. He wheels fine with it and it handles well on the road.
 
I'd suggest a couple other things -
greasable_sus.JPG

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/greasebushings.htm

If you want some sway bar disconnects, I have a set to sell.
I'd also suggest
frontshackle01.JPG

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/hdshackles.htm
I'd also have a saws-all handy with one of those blue lennox blades that look like it has grit on the edge instead of teeth. They cut quickly through the rusted shackel bolts. Best of luck
 
I've got all of the above ORD parts on my rig Storm Trooper recommended and second the choice. It is interesting that those parts will keep the side to side flex in check a bit better, but also keep the movement of the spring up and down smooth as well. It won't make up for a lack of a sway bar, but it is a great addition to replace the crappy stock stuff and overall performance will be much better.
 
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