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Tuff Country 4" lift

With mine I had to pull the knuckle, mount it in the vise, and use up about twenty 1/8 drill bits chewing the cones out of the bastich. I'm talking drilling those three cones until there was nothing left, before it would let go. PB-Blaster, 8# sledge, air chisel, and every profanity there is.:doah:
 
haha for some reason the steering arm ordeal is just funny to me....maybe because it doesn't matter if you're new to turning a wrench of you've been doing it for 50 years...it just pisses you off....
 
Hah...there was a guy over on PavementSucks who was doing that on his Ram. On the advice of everyone he got every tool anyone could think of to get that steering arm off just to be ready for it.

He took the nut off, whacked the arm once...and it fell right off nearly landing on his foot.

People didn't believe him.
 
chevy wrangler said:
the 4 trucks i replaced the arm on came off easy! i guess its the rust factor
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i replaced the arm on my 2 trucks in the past plus my 80 gmc so thats 3 so far, all came off easy! i live in the snowbelt.. so u gotta talk to ur arm n see if she'll let u do the arm easy..:haha:
 
The lift kit has arrived. And while I'm installing the lift, I thought I might go from 3:42 gears to 3:73.
I also have the chance to buy an Eaton Govlock that came out of an 87 blazer, code G80. Very few have anything good to say about them, and most say stay away from them.
We do get snow here, and I would like to know: Should I get the govlock and put it in the rear, and what should I use in the front?
 
Are you getting new axles that have 3.73's or are you actually talking about putting new gears in your current axles?
If its the latter then DON'T...thats a HUGE waste of money... wait until you go to some bigger axles... plus you can find 3/4 tons with 4.10's all day long for around $400-$500...
 
3 or 4 good wacks with a sledge and mine popped off. with 4 inches and 38's I can scrape in the garage with the top off but with the top on its a no go.I would steer far away from the gov-bomb they arent exactly bullet proof. I dont think it would be very road friendly on snow/icy roads either. Being from texas I really dont know what is preffered up there in the snow but I would think it would be some kind of selectable unit.
 
I would wait for your axle upgrade & throw in a Detroit Locker. Their not exactly cheap brand new, but you could pick it up with the new rear axle you buy. I live in Utah & we get plenty of snow. I prefer the Detroit to being open in the snow. On road they are really not bad, offroad they are the bomb!!!:D
 
AVOID THE GRENADE LOCK!

On road in icey conditions they're about as bad as a locker. All limited slips are because if it's so slippery that your tires will slide/spin the LS won't be able to differentiate between the tires anyways so both will spin just like with a locker.
 
wheels87k5 said:
The lift kit has arrived. And while I'm installing the lift, I thought I might go from 3:42 gears to 3:73.
I also have the chance to buy an Eaton Govlock that came out of an 87 blazer, code G80. Very few have anything good to say about them, and most say stay away from them.
We do get snow here, and I would like to know: Should I get the govlock and put it in the rear, and what should I use in the front?
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I held out for almost 3 years waiting on axles. I knew I didn't really want to spend the money to upgrade 10 bolts and then few years later get 1 tons. I did suffer and there was a lot of stuff I just could not do with unlock 10 bolts. But I figured four or five hundered into 10s was a real waste of time and money.

I ended up getting an M1010 from govliquidation.com for 1200. I figure disc brakes for the rear and an eaton elocker for the front and I'm pretty much done.

The one thing I hate doing is doing something twice.
 
I agree with waiting but if the truck is never going to see hard use or offroad then 1 tons maybe not necessary. It just depends what future plans are. I bought the sway bar disconnects and used them once. Its nice and simple but it was kind of a pain getting it hooked back up after wheeling. I took the sway bar off and daily drive it with off everyday. With the really soft alcans up front there is a ton of body roll but It doesnt bug me. Its a k5 on 38's I dont need to be doing 40 around a turn. On the highway it can be kind squirly but its not enough to scare me from doing 70 or anything.
 
I totally agree with building to your needs, too.

My Sub will tow the skiboat, take the family on bike rides, and go wheeling. I've had several 4x4s in the past and from time to time(ready everytime) I end up wanting to go some place that I just can't. I'm sure that wont change with one tons, but it will let me get to more place with less breakage and get me home more often then not.
 
cuervo said:
I totally agree with building to your needs, too.

My Sub will tow the skiboat, take the family on bike rides, and go wheeling. I've had several 4x4s in the past and from time to time(ready everytime) I end up wanting to go some place that I just can't. I'm sure that wont change with one tons, but it will let me get to more place with less breakage and get me home more often then not.
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That's my sentiments exactly. Decided that while I could probably use a 3/4 ton or even maybe a 1/2 ton for what I want Big Ugly to do a 1 ton will just do all of it and more. That and the CUCV's were a better deal than anything out there...

low options, 1 tons, low gears, a Detroit in the rear, and don't even sweat about me putting 38's on it.
Better to have too much beef and not need it than not enough beef and need it...or suddenly find out you need it.
 
My Blazer will not be doing any "hard" offroading. Mainly a DD. I thought a 3:73 gear would be better for 33" or 34" tires with the 700r4.
It will see some snow and ice, so would a locker in back or front be good for traction?
What kind of differentials come with a stock 10b w/3:42 ?...I've tried to get the numbers off the axle but so far no luck.
 
Either open or the G80 code Gov-Lock limited slip garbage.

3.73's are an upgrade but the difference wouldn't be much. Better would be 4.10's for the 33's and 4.56's for 35's.

It's hard to beat a locker. You can learn to drive onroad with it easily and offroad it won't be anything but good.
 
Fair enough, AJM.....you are 100% correct. :wink1:

What exactly is a locker? Are you talking about the Eaton Detroit EZ locker or a Powertrax Lock-right?

What do you mean by learning to drive on road with a locker?

School me on this, Brothers......I smoked a heck of a lot of reefer in the past but I still have a couple brain cells left for a concusion or two. :haha:
 
Are there 3/4 ton 14bsf axles with 4.56 gears and 6 lugs? If so, would that be a straight swap with the 10b's? And will the TC lift install without any modifications on the 14bsf axles?
 
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