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U-Joint question - 91 Kimmy

RJB44

1/2 ton status
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Dec 3, 2005
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I have a 91 Jimmy with 4 inch lift. Was told I need knew u-joints. I do have vibration in the driveline. I remember years ago when I had older late 70's Blazer, I was able to change the u-joints pretty easily, if I recall it was a couple of clips? Since I have not been under my truck to inspect I thought I might as well ask, is this a pretty easy thing to do with later years? and if so, what is the reccomended repalcement for u-joints.

Also, what other symptons are there other then vibration with bad u-joints? I seem to have a "shudder' upon acceleration at the left front wheel, could this be related?

Thanks
 
Try to wiggle the driveshaft and see if they are loose. If they are, they're easy to replace.

Yeah, all you really need is a screwdriver to pry out the clips and a BFH and a socket to beat the joints out. I carry spares with me and i can change them out within 15 minutes.

If you have any noise in the front end and you're driving in 2wd then it could be a wheel bearing or possibly someting brake related.
 
Re the front end shudder. Do you still have the auto hubs? If so one may not be unlocking causing the front to shimmy and shudder. Best to replace the autos with manual hubs. Also having one front hub locked in will cause some driveline vibration and shudder.
I dont know if you have the stock U joints or if they have been changed. But If they are stock or they have been replaced by a driveline shop that does the job right, you can beat on them all day and wont get them apart. The stock joints are held in both by clips and a plastic injected into the yoke at assembly time. You have to heat up the yoke around the U joint till the plastic bubbles out. Then they will come apart easily. When you re assemble you do not have to put in the plastic stuff. Just put in new U joints and the clips. For U joints I like NEAPCO joints.
 
Also, you will need a torch to get the old joints out if they are factory original. They injected hot plastic into the space around the joint to hold it in place rather then using the c-clip. You have to heat the yoke then pess out the joint.
 

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