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u joint strap alternative

The first issue that pops into my mind when looking at those is that they would only allow a very small amount of driveshaft angularity before binding.
 
6.2Blazer said:
The first issue that pops into my mind when looking at those is that they would only allow a very small amount of driveshaft angularity before binding.
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That's what was brought up the last time somebody asked. Because of the height of the cap, it severely decreases your available clearance. It can cause things to come in contact, especially in a lifted vehicle.
 
Yes im running 1350 joint or at least the converson joint. Im not sure on what kind of clearance is on the stock driveshafts with a 1310 on the other side, but you guys are saying that with 4 inch lift, if I get twistd up somewhere, these things are gonna pop off?
 
neverendingproject said:
Yes im running 1350 joint or at least the converson joint. Im not sure on what kind of clearance is on the stock driveshafts with a 1310 on the other side, but you guys are saying that with 4 inch lift, if I get twistd up somewhere, these things are gonna pop off?
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they prob wont exactly "pop off" too soon, but since they are so tall, they'll come in contact with the shaft's yoke. id imagine it would be a good bit of binding and an eventual failure.

i dont KNOW about this process, but i have heard about people drilling the strap yokes out to run ubolts.
 
yeah I cant do that because I dont have a flat spot on the back of the yoke (I thought of that). The parts where the bolt screws in is about 1.5 inches long with a roughly 45 degree angle in the casting in the back, where a nut would go for the u bolt.
 
the 1410 HAD yoke i just got recently has the U bolt straps. i can still see partial threads in the holes they drilled out, quite well i might add. the new holes were not drilled down the center of the threadded holes very well at all. you might try to find the right U bolt and drill out your yoke. there must be a flat on the backside for the nuts though.
 
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can't you drill the threads out of the original yoke and use the u-bolts with it?
 
It can't really be drilled, not and do it right. You have to use a mill because the CL dimension is not the same on caps and u-bolts. That's why the HAD yokes show threads on one side. But, if your good with a file and got some time, you use a bur to rough in and then finish file to fit. And a common counter bore with 3/8 pilot will get you a seat on the back for the nut to set flat. That is not so easy to file since it requires working inside the cove of the seat.

Me, I just bought modified yokes from HAD. Doing it by hand is too much work...
 
goldwing2000 said:
That's factory. I think he's looking for something better than factory.

Unfortunately, HAD doesn't make a 1350 flat-back yoke. :(
You'd have to modify yours or get one of their 1410s.
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HAD does not make any yokes, they modify stock spicers as far as I know. NWF or somebody else (appologies if I got the wrong name, too lazy to look it up) was offering 1350s modified for u-bolts a while back. Look in the vendor section.
 
sooo...those girdles would work on 1410 yokes too, right? the cap dimensions are the same IIRC...i think.


the transfer case I just got has these really weird 1410 yokes that look like gigantic C's with straps on top. not possible to modify them for ubolts. this might be a good idea for me.
 
Well NWF doesnt make one for the 14sf so Im gonna look at machining a flat spot on the back to use the u-bolts. Well see how turns out strength-wise.
 
Do you have access to a mill? If not, something like this would work.

Counter Bore

Pilot

If links don't work, go to http://www.use-enco.com and look for part numbers 368-3066 and 368-6060, maybe go a little smaller on the bore if you can, but 5/8 should be about right for the 9/16 nut.

The less expensive styles don't go large enough, and you need the 3/8" pilot. And don't forget that the u-bolt hole CL is not the same as the threaded holes...
 
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