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UniMog's on Ebay

That is one sweet Blazer!One thing I don't understand...why would the leaf stacks alone not be enough to stop axlewrap? Also I thought mogs had torque tubes not driveshafts..I see a driveshaft.What did you do there?
 
Blaz77400, do you have any problems with suspension flex with those locating links you have on the axles tubes? Looks like they would go up and down fine (both sides at the same time) but without a heim-joint or something similar I would think you would have some binding issues when one side drops down and the other gets stuffed. Maybe I'm missing something, but was just wondering how it worked. Thanks.
 
An easy way to look at portals is its like having and 8 inch lift block.

The Butcher said:
Blaz77400, do you have any problems with suspension flex with those locating links you have on the axles tubes? Looks like they would go up and down fine (both sides at the same time) but without a heim-joint or something similar I would think you would have some binding issues when one side drops down and the other gets stuffed. Maybe I'm missing something, but was just wondering how it worked. Thanks.

They do limit down travel a bit, but only when the whole axle drops straight down. As far as articulation is does good enough for me. The traction bars are a ladder bar design with a shackle on the frame end. That helps reduce bind by moving forward and a little bit side to side.

I am not too worried about breaking the axles. I have been full throttle, bouncing off the rev limiter(6000rpm), and coming off the ground 1-2 feet and just staying in it going up a hill with big ruts and had no problem.

FRIDAY, MAY 28, 2004 (10).JPG
 
Indeed I was missing something. Didn't realize there was a shackle on the frame end. Looks like you have plenty of suspension travel. Sweet truck. Thanks for clarifying the suspension setup!
 
Greg72b said:
You get 7.56 gears and mechanically actuated lockers (standard) in both axles. The downsides are that the wheels are 6-lug and brakes are designed for a 20" wheel. Link suspension is pretty much mandatory due to the axlewrap issue.

Get a model 421 with some real gears, my '421 had 9.3:1 gears :D and 18" rims. Down side was it only has a 4 cyl n/a diesel, can we say sloooowww. It wheeled good but was rough, noisy and slow. It needed the AG tires it had because it couldn't get much wheel speed.
 
stoney126 said:
do these have a better turning radius the a dana 60?
I dont think so.
I have a friend that imports them from Germany and rebuilds them for sale.
Check out his stuff at http://www.offroad-imports.com/index.php His name is Chris Elliot. This is one of his 404s
1.jpg

When I was first building my jeep he made me an offer on a pair of steering axles that was very good. Only reason I didn't go that route was I allready had the D60s,geared and locked.
If I remember correctly it is about 300$ to convert it to accept a standard Ujoint driveshaft and about 1300$ to convert to 8 on 6.5 with disks to run your regular 8 lug wheels. So you save a ton on lockers and gears but make up for it with discs and ujoint conversion. In the end you end up with deeper gearing, selectable lockers and portal axle clearance.
 
Have you guys ever seen the 4x4 named the hulk? It is a sweet k5 that the guy did up with mog axles and triple t-cases. One of the tcases is run backwards so he actually has a higher gear for highway cruising with the mogs ultra low gearing. I'll try and find a link to it. You guys have to see this truck.
 
That backwards 203 is a neat idea....effectively a 50% overdrive. A good idea when trying to make 7.56 gears work on the highway.

I'm pursuing a T56 6-speed as a different way to get the deep overdrive needed. No matter what, the drivetrain is going to be LOOOOONG...with a Doubler.


:thinking:
 

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