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UPDATE - Might have a clutch problem...

Chevy305

Chevy305

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Ok so I am now getting wierd noises coming from my clutch. The only happen while the engine is cold and running. They sound like belt squeaking, but I know for sure that it is not the belts. Also I noticed the tranny is noisier (than normal) when idleing in nuetral. Also I can push in the clutch and the sound changes depenting on the postition. The sound pretty much goes away after the engine is warmed up. And also I haven't noticed any slipping in the clutch at all while driving. So what could be my problem?

This is for a 85 K10 305/SM465/208 but it has a mechanical clutch linkage even though its an 85.
 
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noises suck...

If it is noisy in neutral with the clutch out,it could be the input shaft bearing in the tranny..SM465's are not noted for silent operation,so some "whirring" noise is normal--(Some "Lucas" might quiet it some,but can make it hard to shift in extreme cold)..squeaking isn't normal though..a worn or dry pilot bushing can squeak,but usually only when clutch is disengaged,and the tranny shaft is not spinning,but the engine is..a worn throwout bearing can cause noises while the clutch is disengaged also,or during release while taking off in gear..

I've heard a few pressure plates make squeaky noises,but they rattle more often than squeak--usually the clutch starts acting up if the pressure plate is faulty--chatters,grabby,etc..

Might take a wrench and ensure all the bell housing/tranny bolts are tight..I had one squeaky clutch that wasn't squeaky at all,the bell bolts were so loose it was flopping around on the dowel pins in the engine block!..tightening them eliminated the squeaks..:crazy:
 
Well as long as my clutch isn't going to fail suddently, I can live with the noises.
 
Well If I were to replace the clutch, what clutch should I go with? The stock clutch is fine n dandy but I'd like one with more grabbing power.
 
a good one!..

I'd use a diaphram style pressure plate..I had bad luck with the 12" 3 finger style pressure plates,they failed and would not release after only a few weeks--one of them made my K5 lurch forward at a red light,and I bumped a Corvette in front of me!--and I was lucky the huge linebacker driving it didn't pull me out of my truck and beat me to death..:eek1: --not only do the 3 finger ones suck,they are extremely hard on your left leg--you feel like your bench pressing weights on a universal gym every time you hold the clutch in!..

I'd use an "LUK" brand clutch,I've had good luck with them in my diesel Jetta I had,and my friend installs them at his shop whenever possible--has had no complaints or comebacks..you probably have an 11" or 12" clutch in yours,I'd get a diaphram style pressure plate,and definately have the flywheel resurfaced too..

Centerforce Clutches seem to hold up well too,and have a bit more grabbing power, due to the centrifical weights welded to the pressure plate fingers..The ones I had that failed were Borg-Warner rebuilts--I'd avoid any "cheap" clutch kits that are rebuilt--its too much work to do more than once in a 4x4!...:crazy:
 
I just installed a 12.25" Hays Super clutch behind my 6.2. It's a diaphram clutch, yet even with the hydro clutch seems heavier than stock. The pedal is still lighter than with the manual linkage, just nowhere near as light as I expected. Anyways, i only have maybe 200 miles on it...but so far it engages smoothly and seems good.

I think a centerforce is great if you often have clutch slipping problems at 5000 rpm...other than that IMO those centrifugal weights are more gimmick than anything else.

X2 on the Luk clutches. That was my first choice but I couldn't find any local source when I needed a clutch...and Jeg's had the Hays out to me in a few days.

Rene
 
well without dropping the tranny/t-case how can i tell if i have a 11 or 12 inch clutch?
 
You can't tell until you drop it...but either clutch will fit behind the sbc so it doesn't matter.

Rene
 
so say I have a 11" clutch and i order a 12", can I just put that on there or would I have to resurface the flywheel?
 
38377k5 said:
You should resurface the flywheel regardless and the 11" and 12" clutches are interchangeable.
Click to expand...

thanks for the clearification :wink1:
 
*update*

Ok so now the clutch does the same noises still but now does them all the time regardless of engine temps and the ambient temps. Also when I have the clutch pedal down the engine sounds and feels like its knocking slightly. I can sometimes feel the knocking through the clutch pedal when depressed all the way. But if I let the clutch out and have the engine idle in nuetral the knocking goes away entirely along with all the noises. But the clutch doesn't slip and engagement is still as smooth as it always has been.

Also this may be related but when I first take off in 2nd gear I can feel/hear metal clunky vibes. I thought it was u-joints but its not. I can also hear this sometimes again when I hit the top of 3rd gear which is around 2500-3000 rpm. And also when I am cruising on the highway at 3000 rpm and back off the gas but not entirely. I can distinctly hear it coming from under the floor so it has to be within the 465 or 208. My thoughts were that it could be a worn out bearing or the trans-tcase coupler wearing out and allowing play between the output and input shafts. Also it definately has gotten worse over the years I have been driving the truck.

Any thoughts on either of these problems?
 
*UPDATE* again...

So in doing more inspecting after I re-installed the exhaust, I might have found the source of some of the wierd noises.

It seems that I am missing 1 bolt that bolts the tranny to the bellhousing and of the 3 that remain 2 were loose. Also on the tranny mounts, the washers on the mounting bolts were curved down, making the bolts loosen up. So I reversed the washers and tightened the bolts, but not too much because I didn't want to crush the old tranny mounts, which probably need replacing in themselves...

But I do have a question though, what are the right kind of bolts to go it the bellhousing/tranny. To me they look like 7/16 bolts, but i don't know for sure. Also are there supposed to be washers under these bolts?

Any opinions on my new findings?
 
I think now those bolts are 1/2 inch, but does anyone know if there should be washers under them?
 
If you have another ride, I would suggest popping one of those bolts out and going to the hardware/auto supply store and matching it. That way you know you have the right thing and you wont be making multiple trips or possibly damaging threads.
 
Loctite the bellhousing bolts. I had mine rattle loose at one point.

Throwout bearing is my first guess on the noise. When mine was toast on my '66 C10 it would jingle most noticeably in neutral, then as soon as you gave the pedal a little pressure it would stop.

FWIW, drivetrain noises really travel. It can be hard to diagnose a particular sound on anything betwen the flyhweel and rear end.
 
cabledawg said:
If you have another ride, I would suggest popping one of those bolts out and going to the hardware/auto supply store and matching it. That way you know you have the right thing and you wont be making multiple trips or possibly damaging threads.
Click to expand...

Thats pretty much what I did. It turns out to be a 1/2" x 1"

But still not sure whether there sould be washers under the bolts
 
I have lock washers on mine. Where the tranny meets the bellhousing, not where the bellhousing meets the block.
 
Currank5 said:
I have lock washers on mine. Where the tranny meets the bellhousing, not where the bellhousing meets the block.
Click to expand...

Mine has lockwashers also.
 
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