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v2500 5.7 stalls at idle(warm) and when in gear.

R

RED MONSTER 4X4

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San Bernardino,CA
Hey guys!

I have exhausted all other means of help, I only bother you experts when I simply have no idea what to do next.

I have a 1991 V2500 Burb 4x4. 5.7/4l80e/np241c Long story short I took it for a trip out to the desert(all freeway no dirt etc) hour long drive, as soon as got to the exit the truck began to sputter and die. started back up and was sputtering and not responding to the gas properly, it was not shifting properly either it was in limp mode.(45mph i to second) tried to start it, it would start, as soon as it was put in gear would immediately stall unless i jammed the gas....it remains this way. it will eventually stall out once it warms up as well.....


I have replaced:
Plug wires
Plugs
Cap Rotor
Distributor module
Fuel regulator
fuel filter
IAC valve

I have checked:
Injectors(perfect cone)
fuel pump (shows 13psi when running)
Vacuum lines all seem to be okay
PCV valve no issue, old but is working

Known Issues:
the transfer case? makes a howling sound, it may be on it's way out.
transfer case has a leak at the tail shaft
transmission is somehow leaking in to the transfer case overfilling it.

Could the transmission issue be causing this? could it be doing some sort of code with the ECM? I have NO CES light. only thing i have not tried to replace is Throttle position sensor. but i have no reason to think it is dead as I have no CES.

I read something about Coolant sensors being the cause of symptoms like this but they seem tobe doing their job..... Any hits guys? I REALLY need this Monster as my backup vehicle. our Cavalier just died(tranny) and i have this godawful POS '04 kia which is absolute garbage!...Anyhow, Begging for some help! i am desperate!

Thanks guys!
 
TPS is unlikely. Easy to test though. I assume that you had the battery cable unhooked for a while as you did the replacing, so that should have reset any weird glitch in the computer.
You really need to hook a scan tool to it to check for codes. Does the CEL come on when you first turn the key on?
Its rare for the bulb to burn out, but its possible.

At this point, given what you have replace plus the symptoms, I'm going to make a guess of an EGR problem, most likely, or some kind of exhaust restriction.

Good possibility that a piece of carbon has jammed the EGR open. See if you can move the little piston.
 
Fordum said:
TPS is unlikely. Easy to test though. I assume that you had the battery cable unhooked for a while as you did the replacing, so that should have reset any weird glitch in the computer.
You really need to hook a scan tool to it to check for codes. Does the CEL come on when you first turn the key on?
Its rare for the bulb to burn out, but its possible.

At this point, given what you have replace plus the symptoms, I'm going to make a guess of an EGR problem, most likely, or some kind of exhaust restriction.

Good possibility that a piece of carbon has jammed the EGR open. See if you can move the little piston.
Click to expand...



i mis-spoke the egr not pcv was tested working...

also see video, the CEL is functioning normal
 
Sounds like a vacuum leak symptom (though I didn't hear one in the video,but it is hard to hear one on a video) ,it seems to run OK above idle,but wont idle for long and its rough ,that could be a large vacuum leak,like at the power brake booster or its hose,intake gaskets maybe..

I would think if it was lacking enough fuel it wouldn't want to rev up or pull under a load well..I would have also suggested to check the fuel pressure regulator if it had one,sometimes those rupture the diaphram inside and allows gas to flood into the intake,but i see you replaced it already..
 
OK, first of all, it does sound like a fuel issue. You mentioned the pressure, can you monitor it while it is sputtering?

But first of all, while I realize you were shifting in and out of gear at a fairly high RPM, I'm pretty sure you have at least one broken motor mount.
I thought the engine was going to climb out and walk around and tap you on the shoulder.
Normally a broken motor mount would not cause a running problem, but two things come to mind.
First, it might be sitting on a fuel line or putting a strain on something that does not like it, or second, a lot of engines get their ground through the motor mount.

A bad engine ground should show up during cranking, but maybe this one has a good ground until the motor get started running.
No ground means no power to most of the engine parts.

Plus, you could have a voltage difference between the computer and the engine.

It does not sound as much like the EGR now that I see it, as it did from your description.
A stuck open EGR would not let it run all the time.

Right now, I would pull the codes, check the motor mounts, and work out a way to watch the fuel pressure.
 
Anytime I see that problem with a tbi engine I think fuel pressure or distributor. You checked fuel pressure so I would drop a reman dizzy in it and call it fixed.

Edit. Just saw the video,did you replace the whole distributor or just the module and tune-up parts?
The reason I ask is that if you didn't replace the whole distributor you didn't replace the part that causes all the problems.
 
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