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Vortec: About to start pulling hair....

If your solenoid has electronically failed it should have second and fourth gear, if the solenoid is mechanically failed it may want to stay in fourth. I will get you some test lead info and post in the morning, up to my azz in gators right now....
 
That'd be great! I think it locked in 2nd gear, but have not been able to drive it today. I want to drive it a bit tomorrow but with the luck I've had so far, it'll behave perfectly.
 
You can apply 12 volts to the E terminal on the case connector and ground the A terminal to activate the A solenoid. Solenoid should be ON in first and fourth gear, OFF in second and fourth.
 
Drove it today to check it out. 0 transmission left, black burnt fluid, pushed it back home (suckage). Called a salvage yard to get an offer on it. Gonna bargain to try to keep a few parts for my truck. Shopping for a 00+ Burb now...
 
I should have just done this when the motor popped. I just tried to convince myself it would be cheaper to keep it, turns out that hasn't been true.
 
After taking about it and looking at what we had invested we decided to put a new transmission in it. I picked it up from the shop this evening. Still missing but it moves itself again.

Things I'm considering at this point are the TPS, injection spider, and ignition coil. I'm also thinking of selling it before anything else goes wrong and its still running.
 
I tell you this thing is getting the better of me. I had out towed to a local shop that's done some work for me before. I'm gonna let him short this out them we'll see where we stand.
 
I still have not given up. New transmission in, week later it gets a new fuel pump and I just replaced the TPS and MAP in the last hour. Still no change.
 
Yeah, it's just amazing that it doesn't give any indication of what's going on. It doesn't miss under high load or accelerating. Doesn't miss at idle or idle rough.

Only when load is dropping on the engine, cresting a hill on the high way or letting off after reaching speed. No clue where to go next with this.
 
Quick scan...so at one point unplugging the MAF solved a phantom miss, and there was also a random dying issue, correct?

Is it back to having the phantom miss?
 
It's never had a dying problem, just the miss. Originally, unplugging the MAF would fix it but the last time I tried that it still missed. Pulls good, runs good, idles good and all that. Seems to be getting good fuel mileage too.

I can make the miss happen because it's predictable, repeatable, but not diagnosable.
 
Does it miss in park/neutral as well if you manipulate the throttle similar to what happens when under load?
 
I haven't noticed it doing it in neutral or park, but I'll hook up tomorrow and watch for it. It was doing it a little under power this evening on fairly level ground but still just one or two misses and back to pulling normal.
 
Terry, you've checked all your valve lashes, compression tested the engine etc, right? If you have a valve off it can certainly cause some issues like this. Your fuel trims seem really bad, I'd expect no more than +-2 or 3 for a LTFT. What do your NBO2 sensors look like?

You should do some data logging and post it up for us to have a look at. A WBO2 sensor would be a very helpful data point too.

Are you still running the spider pod injector system?
 
I've rechecked lash twice. I don't have a means to log. I've not had the funds to drop into EFI-live with all the other stuff going on, namely putting $6k into a $4k Suburban....

I've not done a compression check on it.

It's the Delphi upgraded spider pod with injectors at the end where the poppets were.
 
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