Many will probably argue that a 14FF can be bought and set up for that price. I got mine for free. It was "taking up too much room in my buddies garage. /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
I have that set-up on my 88 k5. Works great for me. I too do not belive that the universal answer to any 10 blt question is " Drop in a 14 bolt ". I pull my boat, drive to work every day, and have put on well over 10,000 miles on it and it was used when I got it from another board member who wheeled it with no problems as far as I know. I would like to go 14-60 but tires & wheels and freshen up the axles and bla bla bla more money more money.... Unless you beat the livin piss outa your stuff, a 10blt with an after market differential and after market axles will outlive the rest of the truck. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
If your worried about the c-clips then moser sells c-clip eiminator kits that you can buy at summit for around 140 bucks. I think what i'm going to do with my 12 bolt is put a c-clip eliminator kit in it and buy a set of the superior shafts that ord sells, seems like a much better option and will cost less than a 14 bolt especially since i'll only be running 35" tires.
C-Clip eliminators: $140
2 superior axle shafts 12 bolt 30 spline shafts: $202
Total: $342, thats a lot less than I would pay for a 14 bolt after freshening it up and new wheels and stuff.
Then why mess with the ff kit? I don't have it on my burban. Until my scout is done that is all I have to wheel. The only problem I'vee ever had with the rear was grenading the spider gears. The front short side is what I hate. I'm always blowing that shaft. But like you I am not rich and won't buy expensive upgrades. Especially when they are not guaranteed to eliminate the problem.
What are you talking about ? Man if I had your money I'd burn mine /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. Rich ? I bought two hot rodded 10 bolts for less than the sum of the total parts to build said axles.
This upgrade probably puts your failure point at the ring and pinion instead of the axle shaft. The 8.5 is not exactly a weak ring and pinion. Reading your sig, your only running 33's. If this is as big as it going to get then the kit's a good solution. The 14bff is very strong but most of them you buy for cheap should have new bearing/races/seals put in adding another $100 or two. I believe you can get wheel adapters from 8-lug to 6 lug for around 100, just another option. Doing the wheel spacers would also even out the front/rear track width.
If at some time you plan on going with more then a 35inch tire. I would say bite the bullet and go with a 3/4ton swap.
I do plan on staying with 33" tires because I will tow as well as wheel. And because I am going to tow and I have a detroit at the rear, the option to go to a FF and lockouts is kind of intriguing (seeing as how I was told not to tow with a locker). This kit also has rear disc application.
I'm not sure what they told you but I can't think of a reason to have lock out hubs on the rear of a tow vehicle. I guess you could unlock one hub to take some stress off the locker while engaging and disengaging, but it would put a lot more stress on the other shaft and the locker in general.
A stock 10b with stronger aftermarket axle shafts and a disk brake kit seems like a pretty good option. Just carry a spare shaft -- if one breaks, the disk won't let it out if you stop soon. For $600 you can buy 5+ new spare shafts. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif