come on,that brought the funnay! 
no? 
no? CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Warning to all those that want to bedline your interior...
- Thread starter Stomis
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Herculiner is just paint with chit in it. Put it on a bumper or something and then drive around in a few salty winters. I did the exterior of the big '96 Tracker I used to have and it held up...for one winter. I did a good job wiht the prep work as I had seen others shoddy results start peeling. I even got the UV protectant that Herc sells. Two to three coats and the UV protectant and well...it was thick paint with **** in it. After the first winter I had to spray bomb it again so that the green wasn't showing through where the paint was wearing thin.
Herculiner doesn't count. Unless you're getting a nice thick barrier like Line-X, Rhino Liner, Al's Liner, Scorpion, etc etc etc you're just dealing with paint with **** in it.
Ryoken...I got it.
Read up on the products. POR-15 is the same stuff that Herculiner uses as a base, Herc just adds the gritty rubber stuff for texture. Duraback and any other DIY roll on bedliner is the same stuff too.
I thought that Ryoken had called Por15 out on multiple occasions?
Martin
Martin
I have... it has it's place... it's an encapsulator... but it certainly isn't the miracle that introweb rumor would have you believe..
DrkZide
Loading...
What are we supposed to use? I've heard of people LineX or Rhino Lining the outside of their rig before. Now I'm all paranoid about rust
*runs to do a rust inspection*
*runs to do a rust inspection*
well, don't expect "i hit it with a wirewheel" to do squat for ya, except postpone the inevitable......
there are obviously varying degrees on how to deal with, and prevent rust.... first and foremost is not to have it there... whether that's by cutting out, grinding, media blasting or even acid... sandblasted metal? thats "clean" steel.... wire wheeling just knocks off the top stuff and burnishes the rest....
if your going to do that, than you have to live with the potentiality of it returning... whether you put an encapsilator on it, or converter... i tend to prefer converters in those circumstances... encapsilators tend to perform better when you can coat a whole item...
nobody wants to do the work... everyone wants to slather some stuff on and cover it up... instead of putting sooooo much time into reading the web and contemplating different snake-oils, everyone should do the labor to remove the damn rust... a proper coating system over clean steel will last a LONG time.... metal conditioners, good primer, etc are made for a reason.. a line-x'd exterior tho it may fade can be made to last a LONG time, if your prior coatings are done correctly and of good quality... that means proper grit sanding, dewaxing, etc...
oh, and tho there are many decent products in my business, boats, don't assume that "it's marine, designed for saltwater" necessarily means squat.... a catalyzed car paint is far superior to a non-catalyzed marine product.... Awlgrip marine paint, yeah, polyester based, catalyzed resin, tough as nails... Brightsides marine paint? ain't no better than standard Rustoleum....
there are obviously varying degrees on how to deal with, and prevent rust.... first and foremost is not to have it there... whether that's by cutting out, grinding, media blasting or even acid... sandblasted metal? thats "clean" steel.... wire wheeling just knocks off the top stuff and burnishes the rest....
if your going to do that, than you have to live with the potentiality of it returning... whether you put an encapsilator on it, or converter... i tend to prefer converters in those circumstances... encapsilators tend to perform better when you can coat a whole item...
nobody wants to do the work... everyone wants to slather some stuff on and cover it up... instead of putting sooooo much time into reading the web and contemplating different snake-oils, everyone should do the labor to remove the damn rust... a proper coating system over clean steel will last a LONG time.... metal conditioners, good primer, etc are made for a reason.. a line-x'd exterior tho it may fade can be made to last a LONG time, if your prior coatings are done correctly and of good quality... that means proper grit sanding, dewaxing, etc...
oh, and tho there are many decent products in my business, boats, don't assume that "it's marine, designed for saltwater" necessarily means squat.... a catalyzed car paint is far superior to a non-catalyzed marine product.... Awlgrip marine paint, yeah, polyester based, catalyzed resin, tough as nails... Brightsides marine paint? ain't no better than standard Rustoleum....
DrkZide
Loading...
So cut, weld, zinc, por15 and then liner? (Who makes a good liner?)
ideally.. clean steel, zinc, urethane primer, urethane paint then bedliner...
you guys have GOT to get POR15 out your brain...
you could bedline right over a decent primer.. but a good paint coat helps seal it up all the better...
It's funny, I could just about feel you roll your eyes and sigh before writing that.
eh, sometimes it's hard not to lose it..
but i try to maintain...actually had to write that in word.. then copy/paste it.. freakin POS computer.. my apologies to eveyone i owe a PM to.. working on it....
DrkZide
Loading...
kickstand
1/2 ton status
So rust converter doesnt work at all? Can you use a rust converter and then a rust encapsulator. I understand cutting the metal out or cleaning it by sand blasting it or whatever but a lot times money is an issue and a lot people don't have the funds to do it the best way. I am just curious, I totally understand the best way to do it, but are there any cheaper ways. I know, I know broken record...haha
there's no point in using an encapsilator on top of a converter.. it's one or the other... converters work well in certain situations.. mainly, the rust can't be too thick.. the converters only go down so far, quality of the converter being used plays some in this.....
encapsulators work better when they have no open edges, like when you can coat the whole part... we started out using it about 20 yrs ago on V-drive cases in the boats, as you can coat the whole thing...
I've found converters to be more consistent from a longevity aspect... encapsilators do ok sometimes, sometimes it fails miserably after a yr or 2... obviously topcoating it is paramount, but thats no guarantee...
I know this will sound weird, but a lot of it has to do with what "kind" of rust it is, not necessarily location..
encapsulators work better when they have no open edges, like when you can coat the whole part... we started out using it about 20 yrs ago on V-drive cases in the boats, as you can coat the whole thing...
I've found converters to be more consistent from a longevity aspect... encapsilators do ok sometimes, sometimes it fails miserably after a yr or 2... obviously topcoating it is paramount, but thats no guarantee...
I know this will sound weird, but a lot of it has to do with what "kind" of rust it is, not necessarily location..
