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Wasting Oil

no1uknow

1/2 ton status
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Nov 10, 2004
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I have a 454 in my Jimmy with maybe between 8-10k miles it is very thirsty for oil. Every few hundred miles I need to add oil, it doesn't leak and doesn't smoke any ideas why this could be /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif? I was told newly rebuilt engines do that sometimes but it already has its miles so I doubt it.
 
How much do you have to add ? In between oil changes I have to add 1 quart . And my engine doesn't smoke , and I may have a slight leak , but never see a drip of anything but power steering fluid /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Well I bought it last November since then I have maybe driven it 2-4k tops obviously I don't drive it daily just to go "wheelin'" and back. Since then I have put in maybe around 3-4 quarts I had the oil changed around 6 months ago since then only driven it maybe around 800 miles and almost needed a quart. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
That is a lot in 4000 miles . It has to be going somewhere . If the engine wasn't broken in properly , it could be going out the exhaust , possibly without clouds of smoke . It could also theoretically be sucked in through a PCV valve or crankcase vent and be burned in the combustion process I suppose . Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Is there anyway of finding out where it is going without tearing the engine apart? Or is it going to mess up the engine if not I guess I can just keep adding it every 1k miles or so. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
If its burning in the exhaust you may not see it , but it could be there and its hard to check . You can check the PCV and crankcase hose for excess oil , also change the breather filter , and look to see how long it takes to get dirty with oil . Thats all I can offer . Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
You can perform a leakdown test by putting compressed air into the cylinders,using an air hose fitting in place of the spark plugs.You need to put the piston at TDC on the compession stroke(both valves closed)and you might have to keep the crank from moving when you apply the air pressure,put it in gear if its a manual tranny,and block the wheels-an automatic is a little more difficult,you can use a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt,or wedge something in the fan belts.Once the air is applied,you can listen to hear where its escaping from--bad rings or pistons or scored cylinders will allow the air into the crankcase,that can be heard at the oil filler tube or valve covers.Bad valves will leak air out of the intake or carb(intake valve)or the exhaust pipe(exhaust valve).Bad valve guides can consume quite a bit of oil,when coasting down hill a lot of oil can be sucked into the combustion chamber and burned,sometimes without that much smoke.Usually a plug will foul if its drinking a lot of oil.
Some rings take a long time to wear in--some never do--might be wise to wait a little longer,see if it gets better.Make sure the PCV valve is working,and if you have any fancy valve covers,make sure they have a breather--many aftermarket ones dont,and that will make the PCV valve pull air from the crankcase,and pull oil past the rings.
All the big blocks I had only got about 500-800 miles to a quart of oil,they were high mileage motors though.Dont forget cheap oil can boil away without any smoke--use a good brand name oil--I've had old motors drink a quart every 150 miles,just by switching to Castrol 20w50 instead of "dime store"10w30,I was able to get 400+ miles out of a quart. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
I forgot the leakdown test . I also know if the valves are bad , old timers would shove rope in the plug hole to hold the valve , use a piece of flat stock modified to go on a rocker stud and go over the valve to compress it so you can remove the keeper /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Excuse my ignorance guys but what exactly is a pcv valve? I have heard of it but what is it and where is it? Btw the valve covers are chrome and say Erson and where you put the oil iit has a chrome plug and is solid I've seen some with a little filter looking thing on them should I get one of those? Obviously if I need to really get into it and check stuff I am not at all qualified but I have a mechanic friend that I would like to point in the right direction (he isn't that good but he is cheap and only does minor things to my vehicles) also I run Royal Purple 10w-40 thanks.
 
Well then you need to vent the crankcase . Maybe oil is pushing past the rings then , but I am not sure . A PCV valve is on the drivers side valve cover and runs to a vacuum hose on the front of the the carb , full vacuum . Aftermarket grommets for a PCV valve and the filter thingy can be had at speed shops and Autozone /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
If those valve covers have no holes other than the PCV valve and the oil filler,that could very well be your problem--I've run into this many times.You could get an oil filler cap with a breather built into it--you MUST let air into the crankcase or the PCV will suck oil past the rings.A ford style oil filler cap might fit the hole in the valve cover,and it has the grommet and hole for the PCV valve made into it(so you can put it there if your valve covers have no spot for it).Using synthetic oil before break in could cause the rings not to seat--most engine builders reccomend using regular oil for a few thousand miles first,then go with synthetic.But I bet your valve covers and lack of a breather(and maybe you have no PCV valve at all!)will be the main cause of the oil consumption.Fix those things and see if it gets any better--if it doesnt you will need to do the leakdown test.. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Now that I think about it I haven't seen no pcv valve or any extra holes in the valve covers just the one for the oil. I will check tommorow cuz I loaned it to a friend. That will probably be the problem then. I haven't run synthetic oil til like 1k ago I bought the truck with 6k and he ran normal oil in it. So you think putting a oil filler cap with a breather will help out and that pcv? also the exhaust smells weird and somewhat strong.
 
I also have the same problem with my SBC406 with about 10K. It burns a quart about every 500 miles for some reason. It leaks a little but I do foul the spark plug in #8 hole every 1,500 miles or so. /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif I also have no smoke at start up, WOT, or any other time and my exhaust smells very good. We did notice a fair amount of oil deposits on the pistons when I had the heads off about 1K ago. I have a PVC valve but no breather, I think I am getting oil past the rings for some reason. It runs terrific though so I'm happy I guess. I have gotten mine scorching hot about a half dozen times so that might have screwed up the rings or something. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
If you have an operating PCV valve and no breather,no air can get into the crankcase--the PCV's vacuum will pull air from anywhere it can--dipstick tube,front or rear main seal,a cracked gasket,or most likely the rings,causing high oil consumption and plug fouling,etc.I have bought a few good trucks that the previous owner had decked out with a holley carb and chrome cheapie valve covers with no baffles under the PVC valve,and no provision for a breather--replacing them with stock GM covers stopped the smoking and plug fouling--the engine was fine,the valve covers were the whole problem.And I got a good truck cheap! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Its possible to "wound" your rings if they get too hot--they lose the spring tension that helps keep them tight against the cylinder wall.I bet the ones in my 400 arent very springy anymore--in fact,I wouldnt doubt if a few are in peices! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
You cant link to the pics off of your editing page. Go to your "community" page and link to it.
 

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