Water lines

[swamprat87]

Hi everyone,
i have a 383 with a carb. i droped in the distro an im trying to tune it but this waterline is in the way...can i relocate it? i have seen pics were its on the front of the block. jus pervents me from turning my distro.....please help..lol
thanks
james

 

[paratrooper307]

I'm not sure what you are talking about as far as the water line, a picture might help. Generally, the only water lines on these trucks are the two going to the radiator and the two that go to the header core. On standard intake manifolds, there is the thermostat housing and the heater hose connection on the front of the manifold, which should be nowhere near your distributor.

 

[dremu]

Oil pressure sender maybe, which are pipe fittings and would look to the untrained eye like water lines.

As mentioned, pix.

-- A

 

[swamprat87]

Thanks for the reply..I'll take a photo later an try to post it. But its the hose that goes to the fire wall so I know heatercore. Jus were can I recontect it. There looks to be a spot near the thermostat like our saying.

 

[dyeager535]

Is it coming out of the back of the intake then?

Should be able to relocate it to the front of the intake if there is a spot for it. That's the "high pressure" side of the heater core.

 

[swamprat87]

dyeager: ya it is...ok so that can be removed and placed in the front (plug)..hummmm that will make it better to turn the distro.
thanks for the help
james

 

[dyeager535]

As I recall the rear cylinders don't get cooled as well, I think that is one reason (cost always the other lol) GM started taking coolant for the heater out of the rear of the block.

Does yours use a metal "pipe" to connect to the heater core, or is it actual rubber? MY friends '91 Suburban has the same setup as you describe, except there is a metal pipe that comes out of the intake, not a hose.

 

[swamprat87]

the blazer is 1987. it DOES use a metal line out of the block and the rubber line to heater core

 

[dyeager535]

Doubt it matters anyway, I know the metal line tends to rust out over time, with improper coolant maintenance of course.

 

[Stomis]

Hmmm sounds similar to the heatercore routing that came on g-body small blocks. I switched my monte SS to a coil on cap HEI dizzy and the feed for the heater core was on the rear pass side of the manifold and very much in the way for adjustment.

You should be able to plug it and reroute from the water pump.

 

[swamprat87]

stomis: thats what i would like to do but...were on the water pump..an is it hard or would it be easyer to tap in to the front port on the manifold?

 

[dyeager535]

Water pump is not on the pressure side on any small block water pump I am aware of. Do this and your heat will be hot for a few seconds, then drop in outlet temp quite a bit, since there is no coolant flow.

You could run the heater core OUTLET to the water pump, but the inlet must come from the block, as it is the pressure side.

I did this accidentally when I first put my truck together. Hose from water pump to heater core, heater core to radiator. Whoops.

 

[Stomis]

Water pump is not on the pressure side on any small block water pump I am aware of. Do this and your heat will be hot for a few seconds, then drop in outlet temp quite a bit, since there is no coolant flow.

You could run the heater core OUTLET to the water pump, but the inlet must come from the block, as it is the pressure side.

I did this accidentally when I first put my truck together. Hose from water pump to heater core, heater core to radiator. Whoops.

Thats why I said should. Ive honestly never messed with the heating system in a vehicle from stock. I know some water pumps have more than one plug in them in some castings, would have thought one would be on pressure but guess not.

 

[ryoken]

didn't read the end replies but...

here's another example of the other dizzy thread guys... this isn't an issue with plumbing...

something's wrong if you can't get adjustment on the dizzy... don't worry about the cap, set the dizzy so you have adjustment, than lace the towers accordingly for TDC on #1...... more than likely you can just move every boot over one....

 

[Stomis]

didn't read the end replies but...

here's another example of the other dizzy thread guys... this isn't an issue with plumbing...

something's wrong if you can't get adjustment on the dizzy... don't worry about the cap, set the dizzy so you have adjustment, than lace the towers accordingly for TDC on #1...... more than likely you can just move every boot over one....

Ryoken is right. If you restab the dizzy over a tooth or bump the wires over and you can pull your adjustment in your range of motion. My issue with my Monte SS was due to putting a coil on cap in a low plane manifold with plumbing meant for a coil off cap.