CK5
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Burt has the spare ever been used on you BBC? I believe that is a low torque 153 tooth starter.

edit my bad that is 168 tooth starter
 
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FYI ~ I am running a '74 454 block with stock '72 cast bell that is OEM 1972 SM465/350 so the '74 454 block has the starter mounts needed. I don't think my '72 350 block had this mount option,,, bell only! My brain is fuzzy so take w/grain-o-salt :saweet:
 
Burt has the spare ever been used on you BBC? I believe that is a low torque 153 tooth starter.

edit my bad that is 168 tooth starter
Yep, in 2006 in MOAB of all places, my first starter fried,,, so I bought the one in the pic worked fine for the whole trip... then months later I upgraded to the Power Master version.. and now I pack this as my spare :waytogo:
 
Ok, update. After replacing ignition switch, and its connector. It looked real bad and wires were not in good shape. It cranked once then went back to clicking.

I triple checked wires.

Then it dawned on me, I checked the flywheel area where the starter engages and it was still extended out. If I turn the motor just a smidge by hand it pops back or if I just bump it with a screwdriver.

So, do I just need to shim it? That's not something I've ever done before[/QUOTE
So weird... duno?
 
Further update. It only hangs up sometimes. Wonder if I just got a bunk starter from the zone.

I can get the truck started 4 times, it'll run and idle. Then the 5th time I've gotta fiddle with the starter drive.
 
I would bet that the starter is a problem. I have heard lots of stories about bad starters from Auto zone.

And I tried to use a Delco high torque direct drive starter on my old '72 K5 which had the original starter bolted to the cast iron bellhousing. The nose wouldn't fit into the bellhousing.

I believe that it's possible to bolt a high torque motor onto a cast nose for the existing bellhousing.
 
Well. Let's cross our fingers. Same part number but look at little different and mine was missing a little o ring of some sort at the starter nose area

20201003_153839.jpg

20201003_153845.jpg

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Well, the nose had a weird uneven bump near the threads for the long bolt that was just enough offset i couldn't start all 3 bolts so I grabbed the grinder and flattened it out.

So far no problems starting
 
**update**
Its back to doing the same thing, even when jumping the starter with a screwdriver. So do I just have bad ground/electrical setup?

I bought new cables. Positive goes down straight to big lug on starter.

1 wire alternator i have going to same place on starter (big lug)
I have 1 ground going from intake to frame
And another ground going from engine (near fuel pump) to battery negative post.
And one additional ground going from frame to fender.
Then I have a ground strap going from back of the engine to the firewall.
These are all heavy duty battery cables
 
Maybe this battery is toast. Its a yellotop from 2006.... lol. Load test is on the weaker side but still in the good range

I'll buy a new battery and see what happens. I'm out of ideas.
 
Maybe this battery is toast. Its a yellotop from 2006.... lol. Load test is on the weaker side but still in the good range

I'll buy a new battery and see what happens. I'm out of ideas.

I was gonna X2 on the battery as it sounds like a classic example of one dying. Optimas are not what they used to be either, and that one is old.
 
The battery is very suspect. It's old, and I have had the old Optima batteries do well until all of a sudden, they won't put out enough amperage to crank it.
If you use another vehicle to jump start it, does it crank decently?
 
The battery is very suspect. It's old, and I have had the old Optima batteries do well until all of a sudden, they won't put out enough amperage to crank it.
If you use another vehicle to jump start it, does it crank decently?

I had pulled the battery from my aztek that is pretty new, only a year or two old. But I couldn't get a strong enough connection.

I went ahead and just bought a cheap group 26 battery. So far so good, cranks strong.
 
Now onto a new issue. *sigh*
After the choke opens, it starts running real rough and will eventually just stall. Can't even get a stable vacuum reading while its running this way (bounces from 15 to 18 to 24 to 15 its all over the place in my handheld vacuum gauge).

Its got a holley carb 4160 series. It was sitting for quite a while, 6 or 7 years I believe.
I reset idle mixture screws (turned all the way in then 1 and 1/4 turn back out)
But it had no affect.
If I unplugged the choke. And don't let the plate open it'll run smooth and idle all day
 
Well a Holley should be on the rich side, when normal, all things equal.
Since it runs with choke on. It is lean when choke opens.
Retorque intake, carb base, float bowls. Check all vacuum lines.
If nothing changes, carb probably has a blocked/restricted passage.
1 trick that might help is to hold rpm about 2500, and slam the choke butterfly closed for a second. If your lucky it will clear a restricted passage.
Try not to let it die while doing this it could flood out and be a bitch to restart.
Good luck let us know what you find.
 
Well a Holley should be on the rich side, when normal, all things equal.
Since it runs with choke on. It is lean when choke opens.
Retorque intake, carb base, float bowls. Check all vacuum lines.
If nothing changes, carb probably has a blocked/restricted passage.
1 trick that might help is to hold rpm about 2500, and slam the choke butterfly closed for a second. If your lucky it will clear a restricted passage.
Try not to let it die while doing this it could flood out and be a bitch to restart.
Good luck let us know what you find.


Well, tried the trick a couple times. And gave each moounting bolt a good snug turn. But then basically right after I had to shut it off and go run an errand. I'll see what happens later today and hook choke back up and go from there.

If that didn't help im gonna pull the carb and rebuild it
 
The truck avenger came off my uncles jeep with a beefed up straight 6, I watched him idle thru some crazy angles with that thing
 
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