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Weeiirrd starting occurance.

southernspeed

southernspeed

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I went to start the truck as normal and it turned slightly then stopped but not instantly. It felt like it had hydrauliced. So, 'cause I was in a hurry and thinking 'it couldn't've hydrauliced'....I tried again. Same thing:confused:

For some reason, and I still don't know why, I took it out of Park into R and back into P, tried it again (well why would it hydraulic?:rolleyes:) and it started as normal:confused:

So, it either did hydraulic and cleared itself, or is it possible for the TCC to engage at engine off or on?? I went for a 20 mile drive and all seemed well so if it did hydraulic, it didn't do any damage. I'll check the coolant and oil tomorrow in daylight incase a head gasket has gone.

Any alternative ideas?
 
If it keeps pulling to the right he's correct.

Poor Blazer is all lost and confused.:(



Okay, we have nothing constructive to add, I'll let someone post something useful now.
 
Russell said:
Your timing might be a bit too advanced
Click to expand...
At last....constructive statements! Yeah I was thinking that as I have just been messing with the SA tables. I'll see what extra advance I've put in at cranking speed. Thanks.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
If it keeps pulling to the right he's correct.

Poor Blazer is all lost and confused.:(



Okay, we have nothing constructive to add, I'll let someone post something useful now.
Click to expand...
Geee.....thanks guys I hadn't thought of that:rolleyes::p::D:D
 
Well if you pulled it out of park and then put it back in park and then it started, maybe the neutral safety switch is starting to go bad and not making a good connection, got volts but not enough amps to hold the starter engaged. hope that made sense.
 
No it wasn't that kind of feeling. The engine found big resistance to cranking. The P/N switch works on a low load side of the starter system so it would be a sudden cut in power if that went out.

The timing in the .bin I'm using now is the same at start up as my previous .bin so I'm leaning towards a coolant leak causing a cylinder to hydraulic. :(
Further investigation needed.
 
I can't see any way for a cylinder to hydrolock like that, and then clear itself out. Is it still doing the same thing? A coolant leak bad enough to cause a hydrolock like that would have shown you white smoke before it hit that point. I would think it is more likely that the starter motor has an issue, but that wouldn't account for the shift to start. Unless shifting it caused enough of a jolt to clear the dead spot on the comm.
 
It didn't turn past one cylinder so couldn't produce smoke as nothing fired. If one cylinder was on comp stroke and sucked some water in as it cooled from previous drive it could easily lock, it doesn't take much. Perhaps me trying it twice bounced the piston back down enough to open a valve slightly and let the water escape as I tried it again. I think the shifting was a coincidence. I haven't tried it today as I'm doing a service on my dodge. maybe later.
Thanks for your thoughts though.
 
Puttn' my money on the starter. A hydrolock will not clear up like that. I've had some of my starters sound like the engine is all screwed up.

Starter, check the starter.
 
x2. Weak starter, battery, or cables is where I'd put my money.

But tell your truck that it's ok to come up with a problem no one has thought about. :)
 
dyeager535 said:
x2. Weak starter, battery, or cables is where I'd put my money.

But tell your truck that it's ok to come up with a problem no one has thought about. :)
Click to expand...
Oh don't worry, the trucks got that sorted, it always has 'trick' problems:rolleyes: Actually it's been a great truck.
I'm not sold on the starter thing. I'll check it all out but it didn't 'feel' like it. it would be nice if it is, I love simple fixes!:D
 
Well, it would seem my nearly 2 year old, £160 (that's about $330 boys) battery(Delco side and top posts) has dropped a cell. It was only reading 9.8 volts. I guess even switching to duals just shorted through that one which is why it still didn't crank (on that occasion) with both batts on. Put a new cheaper top post battery in and it spins over like a top now. I'll see how it goes over the next few weeks. Hopefully that's sorted it.
 
$330 for a battery :eek1: You could buy to Optimas over here for that. At least it sounds like you found the problem. Guess it wasnt confused about being on the wrong side of the pond. :D
 
Glad you fixed the problem. That is quite a bit for a batt though. I would think it would be cheaper to buy an Optima over the internet and get it shipped...

southernspeed said:
The timing in the .bin I'm using now is the same at start up as my previous .bin
Click to expand...

On a highjacking note, could you email me the .bin file? That's something I've been wanting to play with, but never actually got into it. I also don't have an older chevy to play with, but messing with the file would be informative. [email protected]
 
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