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Weird Window Issue On 91 Burb

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misweetrevenge

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So the only window that is functional at normal speed is my drivers window which I'm pretty sure the motors are just getting weak from age so thats what I'm here for.

My issue is my rear passenger window. With the driver switch it goes down (slowly but its old) and will slowly go up but stops about an inch from the top and I'll lose control of it through the driver switch. Now if I go over there and use the switch on the door itself its just fine. I found a switch at the junkyard and I swapped them out with absolutely no change. Any ideas?

Also, My barn door sometimes requires the key to stay in the unlock position to open the door. If I unlock it with the key and then return it to neutral to pull it out it relocks. And most of the time the lock switch that is used to lock the truck doors doesn't lock or unlock the barn door. Any ideas?

Thanks for any help guys and gals.
 
Everyone always blames the motor for wearing out. It's the grease inside it that dries up over time and makes it hard for the motor inside to turn. You'd be surprised at how small and fast that motor turns. Drill out the 12 rivets that hold the case together and clean the 'grease' off the gears and degrease them with something like bearing grease. Then bolt the case back together with (I think) 10/32 bolts.
 
Sounds like you got a few problems there. I would take the door panel off and looks at everything on the passenger side window and check all the linkages and everything while running the window up and down. Then check all your electrical connections at the motor and the switches. You may need to pull the drivers door panel off also.

For the rear door lock I would pull the door panel off and see what exactly is going on when you try to lock or unlock it. May just have a few worn out parts causing to much slack and then it just springs the lock back, may need lubed also.
 
rampage said:
Everyone always blames the motor for wearing out. It's the grease inside it that dries up over time and makes it hard for the motor inside to turn. You'd be surprised at how small and fast that motor turns. Drill out the 12 rivets that hold the case together and clean the 'grease' off the gears and degrease them with something like bearing grease. Then bolt the case back together with (I think) 10/32 bolts.
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alright cool. You think there's a thread on here somewhere that explains how to do this?
 
It's not hard, just a little tedious/time consuming. And what's the worst that could happen if you screw it up - buy a new one which you already planned to do?
You drill out the rivets that hold the bracket on and motor casing together and pop it apart. Clean the hardened grease off the nylon gears. It's been many years since I did this but I think I tried an old toothbrush and it didn't work so I used a small wire brush. For the cleaner I think used either Windex or rubbing alcohol. I may even have needed to use carb cleaner, but if you do use that make sure to test it out on an unused part of the large gear to make sure it doesn't melt the nylon that it's made out of. Next, remove the motor and wipe it down with a dry cloth (don't use any harsh solvents or you might remove the enamel on wires). Turn the motor brushes around to give you 'new' brushes (optional). Apply new bearing grease to the 3 gears and reassemble the casing. In place of the rivets you drilled out use some 10/24 bolts and nuts with some loctite. It shouldn't take more than an hour or so to do and the next time you need to service it, it'll be a lot easier. Basically a free fix. Unless there's a gear stripped inside then you should have a new motor assembly.
 
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Noticed something today while looking at the inside of the door. The window will stop part way. If I let it sit for a few minutes and push the switch it'll go up a little more and then all again. Let it sit for a few'minutes and it does the same thing. Almost as if the motor needs to charge. Any ideas about why that is or if it means anything?
 
Sounds like the motor itself isn't getting enough amps through your drivers switch. If it works at the door itself then the motor is fine. It's getting voltage drop through the wires coming from the driver door through the harness. You may have some wires that are rotted from the inside and not making good amps to the other side of the truck. You would have to trace the harness and check the wiring going to that door from the switch. Some people have required their doors with solenoid switches to get full battery power to the doors and have full battery power to run the window motors.if the motor is gummed up it will draw more amps and take more power to move it. With the voltage drop it would start burning wiring if it draws too many amps. Kinda like if you turn a truck over too long and it can get hot enough to melt your power wires from the starter pulling too many amps for too long.
 
Inside the motor assembly there's two metal contacts that normally rest against each other. I didn't investigate exactly what they were for, but they can seperate (thereby breaking an electrical contact). I assume it's for when there's too much current going through them, like when the motor stalls. When they cool down they make contact again.
 
Its a self resetting circuit breaker. Just like the headlights have. Keeps the motor from burning up if you keep power to it when its stalled.

Low voltage from bad wires or switches will cause too much current and a stall, as will old grease or something else binding.
 
Fordum said:
Its a self resetting circuit breaker. Just like the headlights have. Keeps the motor from burning up if you keep power to it when its stalled.

Low voltage from bad wires or switches will cause too much current and a stall, as will old grease or something else binding.
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yep, the power windows are powered through a circuit breaker and not a fuse. That motor is bad or working too hard, drawing too many amps.
 
I had the same problem with my Burb, I replaced the drivers door gang switch with a new one from the parts store and the windows all work much faster now.
 
Greg Ducato said:
I had the same problem with my Burb, I replaced the drivers door gang switch with a new one from the parts store and the windows all work much faster now.
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where did you find a new gang switch? I haven't been able to find one on any site I've looked at.
 
Greg Ducato said:
My local independent parts store, it wasn't cheap, around $75 as I recall
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haha of course is it is. I've found lock switches for $14 online. I don't know why they are so expensive. its old design so its simple. But then again if not many places carry it thats probably why its so much.:dunno:
 
One issue on the windows that I found helps is often overlooked. The coil spring on the regulator needs to be clean and lubed. If you watch the spring while moving the window up and down you will see exactly what I am referring to: The spring coils tightly when the window is down and unwinds when rolled up. If the spring becomes rusty, dirty, or generally corroded, it will cause a ton of internal resistence and cause the windows to slow or bind.
 
Keitha said:
One issue on the windows that I found helps is often overlooked. The coil spring on the regulator needs to be clean and lubed. If you watch the spring while moving the window up and down you will see exactly what I am referring to: The spring coils tightly when the window is down and unwinds when rolled up. If the spring becomes rusty, dirty, or generally corroded, it will cause a ton of internal resistence and cause the windows to slow or bind.
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Funny that you say that, I had the door panel off the other day and noticed the exact thing you're talking about. Trying to figure out how to get it out so I can clean it and what the best thing to clean it with would be.
 
91350Burb said:
Funny that you say that, I had the door panel off the other day and noticed the exact thing you're talking about. Trying to figure out how to get it out so I can clean it and what the best thing to clean it with would be.
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I just doused it with WD-40 and cycled it a bunch of times, then would blow it out with air and repeat. You will be amazed at the rusty oil that pours out.
 
91350Burb said:
You did this with it still in the door with no issues?
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No, It has been a few years, but I think I had it out of the door and w/o the motor on it (so that I could cycle it by hand). If you do it in the door, find a way to capture all the sovlent run-off as you clean the spring.
 
Keitha said:
No, It has been a few years, but I think I had it out of the door and w/o the motor on it (so that I could cycle it by hand). If you do it in the door, find a way to capture all the sovlent run-off as you clean the spring.
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Do you recall how to get it out? Iv taken the panel off the door and the interior window sweep is off as well. There's 2 nuts by the coil that I can see. I don't see any rivets or anything else that is holding it place. What else is there to pull t out? I'd like to pull it put and clean/grease the tracks at the same time as I cleaned the coil.
 
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