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Weld-On Beadlocks Question

3/4 Ton Blazer

3/4 Ton Blazer

1/2 ton status
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I keep seeing ads for Weld-on beadlock kits, and am interested in doing this, but none of them show exactly how the system works. From all of the pics I have seen, it looks like they go together like my diagram here...

2rcptfl.jpg


With the red ring being the weld-on ring, and the yellow ring being the bolt on ring. Well obviously, this does not lock the bead, so I am missing something, Can somebody please explain how these weld on kits actually work? I have been looking for info for 2 days, and have come up with nothing explaining it.
 
The outer bead goes between the red and yellow area on your drawing... and the red weld on part actually goes all the way to the edge of the wheel i think from how i saw them installed.

the outer lock ring clamps the tire onto the weld on lock ring with the tire between so that tire has no chance to come unseated
 
OK, that makes sense. Are either of the rings actually shaped to fit the tire bead, or are they typically just cut from flat plate and forced to just sort of mash the bead till it seals?
 
Not really sure if either of the rings are form fitted since i havent used them but i think there is something there that the tire sits on that keeps the tire centered on the weld on ring then the out ring clamps on. someone should be up soon that runs beadlocks that could tell you better then I
 
The bead gets squished between the red and yellow ring. On the cheaper versions there is no centering ring, you just have to center it as best as possible, clamp it down, and hope for the best. You can have centering rings added and anti-coning rings added to alot of beadlocks but they add money to the cost. FYI, more bolts = better

Centering the tire as best as possible is about all you really need cause you shouldn't be driving weld on beadlocks on the street much anyway cause they can't really be balanced and unless you are really good or really lucky they are going to shack like a bastard at highway speed.

Harley
 
3/4 Ton Blazer said:
Are either of the rings actually shaped to fit the tire bead, or are they typically just cut from flat plate and forced to just sort of mash the bead till it seals?
Click to expand...

They fit loosely to the rim. There has to be a gap, so you get a good weld penetration.
 
Your red ring would be what we call a "inside the lip design" Meaning the inner ring drops down inside the lip. Typically easier to weld, there is a small gap around the ring with most wheels. Some wheels have the lip rolled over further so there would be less gap on these wheels.

Do all your own research, I will tell you what my experiences have been with the DIY weld on beadlocks.

The following is a picture of the old shop rig that had beadlocks on it. I drove it to and from the shop everyday for almost a year. No balancing, no shakes or shimmies to speak of. No anti coning rings or centering rings. Got pulled over in Minnesota with the truck and they are known for being pretty stringent. He looked at them and never said a word.

2psi.JPG


This is at 2 psi. on the trail.

My blazer has 44's on it with beadlocks also. I have only driven it one time from the shop to home. Did just as good. Now, I don't know if I'm just lucky, it damn sure aint cause I spent a whole lot of time torqueing them really evenly. YOU SHOULD THOUGH!

Dish soap helps and when you tighten them evenly it will allow the tire to push around and help you get it centered up.

Keep your bolts tightend up and check them periodically.

I can't complain about them in any way shape or form. Nothing but good experiences with the exception that its a lot of bolts to tighten up!!!
 
I just got through welding up some weld on bead locks that use the inside of lip of the rim. The rings I used were a little wide and didn't leave much welding room. I had to bevel the hell out of the inter locking ring to an ok gap. I would have liked more of a gap. I'm guessing I only got 70 % penetration. I hope that will be enough:confused:.
 
just finished welding one up last weekend and mounted the tire today. Havn't tested it yet so I can't tell ya how they ride.
 
KidJethro said:
Will NOT be a blast. :eek1:

It takes a loooong time to torque all those bolts. 20-30 minutes per tire. It sucks.
Click to expand...

That's why man made impacts.........................................................:D






































On a serious note though, should red Locktite be used and even then, do the bolts still need to be checked on a regular basis?

I know, stupid ass question but I like being a stupid ass on occassion:D
 
I don't think loctite is necessary.

seems you can torque them all day long and they just keep getting tighter as you work around. Use a good pinch type lock nut. All I have ever used is a nyloc and they have worked well. Never acutally needed to tighten later but have always kept my eye on them.

Like to get my thread stick out the same as much as I can and a visual inspection will go along way. Occassionally put a wrench on them and physically check. Visual inspections go fast and can therefore be nut alot more often.
 
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