That's gon break em too
CK5
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welded diffs front and rear
- Thread starter 79bonanza
- Start date
That's gon break em too
I never could understand why guys do this kinda ****, then say "I'll carry spares for when it breaks." 
Have you considered where your truck might be positioned when a shaft breaks? And how long it'll take to swap out said axle shaft in that position? If I go out wheeling, I go out with wheeling in mind, not layin in some mud hole or twisted up on a some rock under my truck swappin an axle shaft. Fuuuuuuck that. Weld a 10b/12b/d44? Wtf?
If it's a rear shaft that breaks, you'll need to carry new oil, or at the least some way to catch the old fluid, gotta pull the diff cover to get to the c-clip in order to pull the broken shaft out of the carrier. You'll need a new gasket, or rtv at the least, to seal it back up. And what it the shaft breaks in more than one piece and get's stuck in the tube? What if the tire and wheel part ways with the truck and fuuck somethin else up on the way out?
For the front...I'm not tryin to insult anyones intelligence here, but what ever side breaks, that side has to be takin down to the knuckle. Brakes, hub, rotor, spindle...all gotta come off to get the shaft out. What if it's raining or snowing or 10000 degrees out? Does the situation allow you to keep track of all the little bolts, bearings, shims and washers that you'll need to re-assemble your ****? What if you're halfway up a big ass rock pile when it breaks, you start tearin it apart....and a hub nut falls 998' down into the depths of the rock pile? Bottom line, replacing axle shafts is something that, in 99.9% of cases, should be done in the driveway or on the shop floor. It's miserable doing it anywhere else.
Don't be that guy on a trail ride who's blocking 50 people behind them because he rolled out with his under prepared, un-worthy and out-classed piece of shiit. Don't be that guy who didn't carry any tools, fluids or supplies and begs for stuff from the rest of the group who WAS prepared. Just don't be that guy period.
My old rig ran 5:13 geared 60/14b, welded rear, detroit front, grooved 42" TSL's, 35 spline Spicer stubs and 5-806 joints, warn flanges, 465 and 203/205 doubler. 134:1 crawl ratio. Could have been an axle breaking monster. I did The Hammers, The Rubicon, Fordyce and everything at Hollister....And I never broke an axle. I had so much fun with that truck it was ridiculous.
I had two on the trail problems, ever. The first was at the Hammers, the mechanic clutch linkage came apart in a twisted up situation. Less than 10 mins and I was on the trail again. The second, not so much. Came down hard off a 3' ledge on Fordyce, the motor bounced in it's mounts, contacted my booty fab cross-member and dented the pan enough for the crank to hit the oil pan from the inside. That involved two extra days, hiking around the mountains trying to find cell coverage to call for oil, parts and tools, getting creative with the winch, tow straps and two trees...it SUCKED. Both problems could have been prevented by being prepared properly and not trying to rush through shiit to get it done. The clutch thing could have been avoided by installing the hydro slave cylinder stuff I already had, and the cross-member thing could have been avoided by my not booty fabbin an abortion of a x-member the night before.
Moral of the story, prepare your rig to leave the driveway, be reliable and have fun. Don't go out with a rig full of spare parts believing that you'll be fixing broken stuff. Again, the idea behind this hobby/sport is to have fun and enjoy the wheelin' part. Fixin shiit "out in the field" is never fun.
Oh, and keep your welder away from half ton axles.
Pictures of the Fordyce ass-ache.
Have you considered where your truck might be positioned when a shaft breaks? And how long it'll take to swap out said axle shaft in that position? If I go out wheeling, I go out with wheeling in mind, not layin in some mud hole or twisted up on a some rock under my truck swappin an axle shaft. Fuuuuuuck that. Weld a 10b/12b/d44? Wtf?
If it's a rear shaft that breaks, you'll need to carry new oil, or at the least some way to catch the old fluid, gotta pull the diff cover to get to the c-clip in order to pull the broken shaft out of the carrier. You'll need a new gasket, or rtv at the least, to seal it back up. And what it the shaft breaks in more than one piece and get's stuck in the tube? What if the tire and wheel part ways with the truck and fuuck somethin else up on the way out?
For the front...I'm not tryin to insult anyones intelligence here, but what ever side breaks, that side has to be takin down to the knuckle. Brakes, hub, rotor, spindle...all gotta come off to get the shaft out. What if it's raining or snowing or 10000 degrees out? Does the situation allow you to keep track of all the little bolts, bearings, shims and washers that you'll need to re-assemble your ****? What if you're halfway up a big ass rock pile when it breaks, you start tearin it apart....and a hub nut falls 998' down into the depths of the rock pile? Bottom line, replacing axle shafts is something that, in 99.9% of cases, should be done in the driveway or on the shop floor. It's miserable doing it anywhere else.
Don't be that guy on a trail ride who's blocking 50 people behind them because he rolled out with his under prepared, un-worthy and out-classed piece of shiit. Don't be that guy who didn't carry any tools, fluids or supplies and begs for stuff from the rest of the group who WAS prepared. Just don't be that guy period.
My old rig ran 5:13 geared 60/14b, welded rear, detroit front, grooved 42" TSL's, 35 spline Spicer stubs and 5-806 joints, warn flanges, 465 and 203/205 doubler. 134:1 crawl ratio. Could have been an axle breaking monster. I did The Hammers, The Rubicon, Fordyce and everything at Hollister....And I never broke an axle. I had so much fun with that truck it was ridiculous.
I had two on the trail problems, ever. The first was at the Hammers, the mechanic clutch linkage came apart in a twisted up situation. Less than 10 mins and I was on the trail again. The second, not so much. Came down hard off a 3' ledge on Fordyce, the motor bounced in it's mounts, contacted my booty fab cross-member and dented the pan enough for the crank to hit the oil pan from the inside. That involved two extra days, hiking around the mountains trying to find cell coverage to call for oil, parts and tools, getting creative with the winch, tow straps and two trees...it SUCKED. Both problems could have been prevented by being prepared properly and not trying to rush through shiit to get it done. The clutch thing could have been avoided by installing the hydro slave cylinder stuff I already had, and the cross-member thing could have been avoided by my not booty fabbin an abortion of a x-member the night before.
Moral of the story, prepare your rig to leave the driveway, be reliable and have fun. Don't go out with a rig full of spare parts believing that you'll be fixing broken stuff. Again, the idea behind this hobby/sport is to have fun and enjoy the wheelin' part. Fixin shiit "out in the field" is never fun.
Oh, and keep your welder away from half ton axles.
Pictures of the Fordyce ass-ache.
destro360
Registered Member
stock your only spinning one tire anyway and i have driven 2 daily drivers with a spooled rear and it sucks to say the least at high speeds on wet or icy roads etc. the important thing that nobody is thinking about is if you weld the front (NOT THE REAR) it doesnt mean you gotta run around with both sides locked all day everyday. of course if you did that then expect what everyone is telling you if you weld the front only lock one side and only lock both if you absolutely have to then your going to be just fine and it will last for a long time. keep up on your joints and pay attention. if you weld the back your gonna be out of control on the highway in rain and snow and in parking lots people are gonna look at you like your retarded while your tires scratch and squeek. you'll also catch loads of attention from the police (your best friends) when they think your driving like an idiot because your rear tires are making noise. try explaining this thread to mr. officer.
I can tell you this from first hand experience. A welded front with one hub open is worse than being open. Open diff is sending power to both tires almost all the time. With one hub out its not.
Obviously if you live in a dry area you'll probably be fine, but this time of year where I live I spent more of the day with both hubs in than I did with one out because it just got old.
Obviously if you live in a dry area you'll probably be fine, but this time of year where I live I spent more of the day with both hubs in than I did with one out because it just got old.
destro360
Registered Member
when my front end "blows up" i'll document it and then i'll probably grab another one for free and slap it in 
