I need to redo the spring perches the PO welded on. They are set to narrow by almost half an inch and I need to clock the axle to help with the pinion angle. What’s the proper way to weld these on? Crank up the welder and let her eat? Or do I need to pre heat the housing first? It’s a 14 BFF if it makes a difference.
CK5
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Welding spring perches
- Thread starter centexk5
- Start date
What size welder / specs ?
I burn in perches from ruffstuff on 14ff no problem with my Lincoln 216 power mig 220 volt .
I burn in perches from ruffstuff on 14ff no problem with my Lincoln 216 power mig 220 volt .
It’s a 220v Hobart mig on a 50a circuit.
Turn it up and let it burn .
Love it.
You didnt say what size unit tho ?
On wheels or a cart . ?
Wheel unit no prob . On cart not so sure .
14ff tubes are 1/2" thick .
On wheels or a cart . ?
Wheel unit no prob . On cart not so sure .
14ff tubes are 1/2" thick .
Handler 190. Rated for up to 5/16".
Ah . . Lets see if anyone else chimes in .
I am just use to my big welder . Yours is next size down . Prep good and turn it up you prob be fine .
I am just use to my big welder . Yours is next size down . Prep good and turn it up you prob be fine .
It's gotta be better than what's there now.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I did mine in a little Lincoln on a 120V outlet. Unless the spring perch is 1/2” thick you probably don’t need a welder capable of 1/2”. New perch is probably 1/4” and most basic welders can do that. I’m sure some nuns have died since then, but none caused by my truck.
I've got the same one, it'll do just fine. IMHO, Hobart (and some others) under rate their products, perhaps to avoid lawsuits.
I've done several with my little 120v eastman welder. No issues with any. Never had a crack, or one come loose.
Turn the heat up. Slow the wire down as much as possible so it does not puddle heavy on the axle tube, more time should be spent on the tube than the bracket.
Did some measuring and the axle is shifted an inch and a half or more to the passenger side. No wonder my driveshaft is making noises. No, I didn’t install the axle originally. Just another PO disaster to fix.
Anyways, double check my thought process on this.
1. Support frame at ride height
2. Put axle on dolly’s
3. Undo U-Bolts
4. Cut spring perches
5. Center axle
6. Adjust pinion angle to point at transfer case output (going to suck it up and do an SYE and CV)
7. Quadruple check measurements
8. Loosely bolt springs on and quadruple check measurements
9. Tack weld perches on
10. Quadruple check measurements
11. Burn in perches
Anyways, double check my thought process on this.
1. Support frame at ride height
2. Put axle on dolly’s
3. Undo U-Bolts
4. Cut spring perches
5. Center axle
6. Adjust pinion angle to point at transfer case output (going to suck it up and do an SYE and CV)
7. Quadruple check measurements
8. Loosely bolt springs on and quadruple check measurements
9. Tack weld perches on
10. Quadruple check measurements
11. Burn in perches
The driveshaft doesnt care if the pinion is centered. Thats not a contributor to the issue.
You want to point the pinion at the tcase but then down two degrees so its in line under load. You need to accommodate the small amount of axle wrap for your cv shaft.
You want to point the pinion at the tcase but then down two degrees so its in line under load. You need to accommodate the small amount of axle wrap for your cv shaft.
The springs have to hold the axle at ride height to get the right angle.
vandelay industries
1/2 ton status
Would it be better to weld only 1" at a time, let it cool off, then weld another 1" (preferably on the opposite of where you just welded), let it cool off etc. etc. etc.
Would welding continuously until done be in danger or warping the axle tubes?
Would welding continuously until done be in danger or warping the axle tubes?
Yep. Buen them in. Not going to warp that little section of tube.
