Welding spring perches

[vandelay industries]

Let's say the factory is (i don't know what the factory tolerances are) let's say .02"....07" etc. That's fine. i'm not talking about that.

But we're not talking welding a small .125" thick shock tab on a rear. Welding two leaf spring perches or 4-link brackets is going to take ALOT of heat and time---at least one minute total of welding per side.

This likely will cause the rear to go out of alignment beyond factory specs. i'm afraid welding for 1 inch at a time, letting it completely cool off then welding another inch etc. won't avoid this problem? Now, IF, on these larger rears with thicker tubes (14bff etc) they aren't affected, then fine. i work with 10 and 12 bolts.......

i don't mean to be anal (although i am), but it seems like welding mounts on a rear is more than just cutting and welding. It's cutting, welding AND straightening.

i thought CKers do it the right way? This tool-----will it really cost $700 to straighten a rear?

 

[vandelay industries]

Problem still not resolved satisfactorily for me on a home level:

i will likely tack my mounts on and then bring it to a shop (who has jigs/straightening equipment) for final welding and straightening.

 

[USSkoval]

Let's say the factory is (i don't know what the factory tolerances are) let's say .02"....07" etc. That's fine. i'm not talking about that.

But we're not talking welding a small .125" thick shock tab on a rear. Welding two leaf spring perches or 4-link brackets is going to take ALOT of heat and time---at least one minute total of welding per side.

This likely will cause the rear to go out of alignment beyond factory specs. i'm afraid welding for 1 inch at a time, letting it completely cool off then welding another inch etc. won't avoid this problem? Now, IF, on these larger rears with thicker tubes (14bff etc) they aren't affected, then fine. i work with 10 and 12 bolts.......

i don't mean to be anal (although i am), but it seems like welding mounts on a rear is more than just cutting and welding. It's cutting, welding AND straightening.

i thought CKers do it the right way? This tool-----will it really cost $700 to straighten a rear?

"This will likely" and "it seems like" says to me that you have never actually welded on a set of perches before. You are worrying too much and over speculating. Mountains out of mole hills.

Doing it the right way is simply putting together a well built rig that will stand up to trail use and/or 100k or more miles on the road without trouble and most everyone does it without a $700 jig because it's not necessary.

If you want to worry about something that actually IS critical, focus on getting your pinion angle set correctly.

Also... how are the responses given not a satisfactory answer? If you already knew the correct response, why did you even ask the question?

 

[Bent77]

What I’m hearing most of these guys say is this:

Unless you’re a shop that can absorb the expense, most guys don’t drop $700 on the bore alignment tool
Biggest concern is bridging the axle, where you have the highest probability of applying directional force to both axle tubes and create a “smile” (Similar time the picture I posted above)

Welding a perch to the axle? Most guys are not concerned. Why? Using heat will introduce the potential for warping. But a tube/pipe with a 1/2” wall is also not as susceptible to warping as other things, due to its shape. Add to that how many of us have done exactly this without wiping out a bearing or gear set, so most of us are ok with the results

If you need to take it to a shop, then do so. Understand that they might just burn them on, or charge you to the moon to go through a bunch of procedures to satisfy your concerns that may or may not have any effect

 

[centexk5]

Glad this thread spurred some good conversation. Truthfully, this truck sees maybe 2000 miles a year so I’m not terribly worried. I’ll pre-heat it and then burn it in.