well, i got it. wish me luck...

[MassMan]

for those of you who didn't see my first thread, here's a link:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276090&page=3

Can't get the grin off my face. I'm so excited it's sickening, though that might be the sneaking suspicion that i might have bitten off more than i can chew. We'll see. Here's what i got:
1985 K5 Blazer
350/350/208 (originally a 305/700/208)
10-bolts (haven't checked the gears), new warn hubs
4" lift (springs front, blocks rear)
35" MT/R's on aluminum wheels
removed doors (but not removable) with tube half doors
power windows+locks (locks don't work)
no electrical to anything other than the starter/alt and honda dual fans
fans thermo-controlled, but wired with electrical tape and speaker wire
broken hood latch cable (there's enough sticking out of the grille to pull on)
solid top
small rust hole behind passenger seat, rusty rockers, trimmed+rusty rear fenders
tow truck front bumper (push kind) without rubber pads and steel bar rear bumper
holley carb (i think... haven't had time to look)
dual exhaust with thrush welded mufflers
B&M shift kit
great seats, no dash, no carpet (was a silverado)
184,000 on body, 30,000 on engine/trans/t-case
it runs, drives, steers, and brakes like a new truck
and i'm lovin' the rustolium camo paint job , but the spongebob stickers and "NRA Life Member" stickers have got to go .

Turns out the awful electrical problem was a missing ground strap from the block to the frame. a carefully placed jumper cable and the electrical now works (although that currently includes just the front and rear lights, dash lights, and dome light). looks like i won't be listening to the radio any time soon .

Anyway, i'd post pics but my camera bit the dust and i'm not a paid member (yet), so you'll have to go without them for the moment.

 

[MassMan]

ok... so let's start with a few questions. first, i've got to get the doors back on. i got the driver's on enough to close, but i noticed that the two hinges i had left (the hinges were mixed with the dashboard hardware in the center console) had little sets of wheels on them while the driver's ones didn't. i think i've got two bottom hinges on the drivers, but can anyone confirm this? it looks like the little rollers hit these torsion-bar looking items that are only on the top of the door jamb. anybody care to explain all of this? i wish i could get pics...

 

[blowedupmotor87]

I've never had the doors off so, can't help there but, maybe can with the radio (assuming it is stock). Check out your cigarette lighter! I know it sounds funny but, when I was driving a (ex)friend's C10 from Texas to NC (long story, not good), there was a big pop and the stereo stopped working 5 hours into a 22 hour drive. Fast forward to several weeks later when I am helping her clean the truck, I for some reason happen to open the ash tray and discover a burnt up wire behind the cigarette lighter, replaced it and Viola! the radio worked. Also discovered the PO had hidden a kill switch up in the dash behind the ashtray, had some fun pulling pranks on her with that for a little while before I told her about it!

Anyways, somebody else that knows more about wiring can go into more detail but, there's a common problem amongst these trucks that likes to take out the cigarette lighter and the radio.

EDIT: forgot to say congrats on the new purchase!

 

[tRustyK5]

The hinge with the wheel is the bottom hinge for either door. The wheel on the torsion thing makes the door stay halfway open or all the way open...rather than swinging in the breeze.

Rene

 

[MassMan]

well, i guess i wasn't very clear about the radio...i have 3 radio cutouts in the dash and no radio. thanks for the advice, i might need it when i get something in there.

anyways, i got the doors on today. the hinges with the wheels go on the top of each and keep the doors open just like Rusty says. i also had to rewire the trailer-plug power window disconnects to get the windows to work, plus i had to get the passenger window back in its track.

now i'm stuck with the door panels hanging off because i can't figure out how the interior-side weather stripping at the bottom of the window clips on to the plastic panel and the metal base. anyone know a quick and easy way to snap this back into place?

also, it looks like the electrical system was done by a first-grader. lots of twisted-wire connections wrapped in wads of electrical tape, wired hanging all under the dash and engine bay, and randomly cut wires that seem to go nowhere. not to mention the lack of proper grounding straps (jumper cables work for now). being that i'm on a budget both time and money-wise, has anyone re-wired their truck themselves? i'm currently going to school for electrical engineering, so the technical aspect doesn't phase me, but the time versus money aspect is bothersome. i'm not quite sold on those $500-$800 GM wiring harnesses, they look like something i could throw together in a week.

 

[Doc Feel Good]

search this site for wiring harnesses... EZ is one brand.. so is painless...

I would not buy an OEM harness... too much money...