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Well poop (squeaky brake/caliper discussion)

Phil513

Phil513

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Waste of a day. My front brakes were screeching pretty bad, so I got some new pads and pulled the calipers off, the brakes on there look practically brand new. Must just be kinda squealy. Buttoned that back up and went to work on my sloppy shifter. I got the new parts in the mail with the stiffer spring, it didn't really help. Maybe a little. The problem is that stupid roll pin has a lot of slop in it. I pulled the 2 nylon rings out and put in some fatter o-rings, but didn't really make a difference. So I'm heading back home in not much better shape than I left. Oh well. Maybe another day I'll take the shifter back apart and just weld the two parts together and lose the roll pin.

 
Did you try scuffing the brake pads and rotors?
But I also wonder if the pads that you bought would end up quieter. Of course I would still scuff the rotors a little.
 
No, I didn't. I might try that, and put some of that anti sqeal goop on the backside of the pads.
 
I had a friend swear that BG has something that soaks into the friction he used on his. Overnight soak I believe.
 
Phil513 said:
No, I didn't. I might try that, and put some of that anti sqeal goop on the backside of the pads.
Click to expand...

I have applied a few layers of duct tape or that sticky butyl rubber roof repair tape on the back side of disc brake pads--it works and lasts longer than the goop does...similar to the self stick anti-squeal pads they supply with some pads...
 
diesel4me said:
I have applied a few layers of duct tape or that sticky butyl rubber roof repair tape on the back side of disc brake pads--it works and lasts longer than the goop does...similar to the self stick anti-squeal pads they supply with some pads...
Click to expand...

Thanks! I've never heard of that before, I'll give it a shot!
 
I've used the b g stuff at work a lot about 95 percent of the time the noise goes away

image.png
 
Wow, never heard of that stuff either. Even something as dumb as squeaky breaks teaches me something on this forum.
 
In hindsight I should have gotten all this advice while I still had it all apart. :doah:
 
Hard to when it's tore apart and you just want it back together.
Next time
 
bent72 said:
Hard to when it's tore apart and you just want it back together.
Next time
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's not so bad. On the weekends I can pull the Blazer inside the roll up door at work and lift the front with a forklift. lol. easy.
 
The biggest reason for squealing brakes, I have found, is sticking caliper pistons. I rebuild my own calipers because I can make them perform better than even a new set of calipers. Most people say I am full of crap when I bring up calipers as a reason for squealing because it is easier to say I am full of crap than it is to deal with rebuilding calipers. :)
 
What is involved in rebuilding a caliper? Is there a kit or something?
 
You can get kits,but 90% of the time its cheaper to just get a rebuilt one ,the calipers for most square bodies go for between 15-25 bucks with a core exchange...most stores wont stock kits on the shelf,and you may need a piston for it too,and it honed out,so you'll need to buy a hone..assuming you have a drill to use one in..--add that all up and you've spent more than maybe a new one will cost..not to mention your time..

I have rebuilt a few calipers,but only if I had too..one I spent hours honing and getting "right",then tried opening the bleeder screw--"SNAP"..now it has no core value!..:mad:...ended up buying a rebuilt for a whopping 13.99 at Autozone,plus a 10 dollar core charge..(I found some nice seized rusty calipers I brought back for a refund late on though )..
 
And what is the trick to making them so good? ??
Please share your experience!
 
Yeah I usually buy 3 at a time when I get them "new" and use the best 2

Rebuilding has to be better
 
The part I had most trouble with rebuilding a caliper was not so much the honing process,but getting that dam "dust boot" on the caliper without wrecking it--they just have a tin ring with the rubber bootie on it and unless you have some sort of perfect sized "driver" to install one,its tough getting them on intact..
I have seen repair manuals suggesting using an old point type distributor body as the boot installer--yea,everyone has one of those hanging around right ?..:surepal:..
(I do,but would rather keep them intact )..

I haven't had any "bad out of the box" rebuilt calipers so far--maybe I'm just lucky...?..
 
6872xtc said:
And what is the trick to making them so good? ??
Please share your experience!
Click to expand...

Simple! The trick is to take the time to sand smooth the piston surface and piston bore. Most re-builders and even new caliper assembly plants do not take the time to do this simple thing. Most all rebuilt and new calipers are assembled by minimum wage workers who slap them together as fast as possible. I have been to a rebuild caliper plant, and saw who was working there, and how they rebuilt them. It was not a pretty sight.

When I rebuild calipers first I remove the piston from the bore, and take some emery cloth and some caliper assembly lube, then sand the caliper piston as smooth as a babies ass. Then I check the piston bore for any pitting and casting flash. I also check the piston bore seal groove for any debris or carbon build up, then sand the piston bore smooth. After I am done with all this, I clean the whole assembly good with brake parts cleaner, and use the caliper lube to reassemble the piston into the bore.
 
Figure I'd re-title the thread, since "poop" wasn't real helpful.
 
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