Well poop (squeaky brake/caliper discussion)

[1-ton]

The part I had most trouble with rebuilding a caliper was not so much the honing process,but getting that dam "dust boot" on the caliper without wrecking it--they just have a tin ring with the rubber bootie on it and unless you have some sort of perfect sized "driver" to install one,its tough getting them on intact..
I have seen repair manuals suggesting using an old point type distributor body as the boot installer--yea,everyone has one of those hanging around right ?....
(I do,but would rather keep them intact )..

I haven't had any "bad out of the box" rebuilt calipers so far--maybe I'm just lucky...?..

You got that right...the dust boot is the biggest B!TCH for me too. I have had a couple rebuilds, and they where not real bad, but they just hung up the piston a little less than the old one.

 

[Bent77]

Figure I'd re-title the thread, since "poop" wasn't real helpful.

Gets some strange search results

 

[Phil513]

Gets some strange search results

Of that I have no doubt.

 

[diesel4me]

Yeah,did the "two girls & a cup" video appear in the search ?......

 

[renpens]

Do not weld the shifter. It is designed to have movement at the pin. The result of welding may very well be the shifter causing popping of gear.
I have had this experience. I purchased a 465 that was rebuilt. My friend sold me the trans for cheap. His friend had the trans rebuilt and because of the movement at the pin he welded. That is why he removed it and sold it to my friend. I replace the shifter which resolved the problem. Took me awhile to see the welded shifter. Was not looking for the obvious.

 

[Phil513]

Do not weld the shifter. It is designed to have movement at the pin. The result of welding may very well be the shifter causing popping of gear.
I have had this experience. I purchased a 465 that was rebuilt. My friend sold me the trans for cheap. His friend had the trans rebuilt and because of the movement at the pin he welded. That is why he removed it and sold it to my friend. I replace the shifter which resolved the problem. Took me awhile to see the welded shifter. Was not looking for the obvious.

You know, after going on an off road trip today, the work I did really did make a difference. It's a ton better to shift, and I can do more, I need to take it back apart.

I stuffed 2 large O-Rings in the upper groove, but the lower one was a slightly different size, so I put the ring back on it. But I have an idea how to snug that up too.

I think if you get those two "vibration dampeners" fitting really snug, it would make a world of difference.

 

[chulisohombre]

Even if my brakes still look good I sand the pads and rotor a little just so the mating surfaces are clean again. Then hit it with brakeckean and wipe off any residue before reassembly. The brake pads I've been seeing are using a lot more metal flake ingrained in the pad than they used to as well. It can create a squeal also until it wears through that part of the pad some.

 

[RobTav63]

I'm chiming in late here, but I did the same thing a while back - brakes were starting to squeak, so I bought new pads, jacked up the front end, popped off the wheels... and the brakes were fine, plenty of meat left. Caliper was engaging and returning correctly. I scratched my head and slapped it all back together. After another week of squeak, and some Internet help, I opened it all up again, scuffed the pads and rotors (which were a bit glazed), blew them clean with the compressor, a bit of brake cleaner, and wiped down - no more squeaky brakes

 

[Phil513]

I'm chiming in late here, but I did the same thing a while back - brakes were starting to squeak, so I bought new pads, jacked up the front end, popped off the wheels... and the brakes were fine, plenty of meat left. Caliper was engaging and returning correctly. I scratched my head and slapped it all back together. After another week of squeak, and some Internet help, I opened it all up again, scuffed the pads and rotors (which were a bit glazed), blew them clean with the compressor, a bit of brake cleaner, and wiped down - no more squeaky brakes

Seems to be a concensus, and at least it's free, so no harm in trying. I know what I'm doing next weekend!

 

[1-ton]

You know, after going on an off road trip today, the work I did really did make a difference. It's a ton better to shift, and I can do more, I need to take it back apart.

I stuffed 2 large O-Rings in the upper groove, but the lower one was a slightly different size, so I put the ring back on it. But I have an idea how to snug that up too.

I think if you get those two "vibration dampeners" fitting really snug, it would make a world of difference.

When I had an SM465 with the same problem back in the mid-80's I replaced the shift handle, spring, plastic bushing, and roll pins on it. This made my shift lever stand straight up like it was supposed too.

 

[Phil513]

When I had an SM465 with the same problem back in the mid-80's I replaced the shift handle, spring, plastic bushing, and roll pins on it. This made my shift lever stand straight up like it was supposed too.

I did the spring and all, I just need to fiddle with the bushings a bit more. But I'm really happy with the improvement so far.

 

[1-ton]

The bushing you are talking about...is it a curved plastic one, which fits into the curved area of the spring cap? It has been a long time since I messed with what you are doing, but that is what I vaguely remember the bushing looking like.

 

[pomai]

The biggest reason for squealing brakes, I have found, is sticking caliper pistons. I rebuild my own calipers because I can make them perform better than even a new set of calipers. Most people say I am full of crap when I bring up calipers as a reason for squealing because it is easier to say I am full of crap than it is to deal with rebuilding calipers.

How can you make them perform better than a new set?

 

[1-ton]

How can you make them perform better than a new set?

When I rebuild my own calipers, I put effort into making sure they are as good as they can be. Even new ones are slapped together as fast as possible by minimum wage plant workers who do not care how perfect they are. Now if one wanted to...you could go buy a new set of calipers (in order to have brand new castings), and then rebuild those yourself, and really have a custom set of calipers.

 

[chulisohombre]

As cheap as they are to Buy reman and put on the trucks I'd rather do that than try And Rebuild myself. Seems Like It's just easier Since most are lifetime guaranteed these day anyway. Ten minutes to Change out of its sticking bad again.

 

[Phil513]

The bushing you are talking about...is it a curved plastic one, which fits into the curved area of the spring cap? It has been a long time since I messed with what you are doing, but that is what I vaguely remember the bushing looking like.

No, mine didn't have a curved plastic one in that area, just a curved stamped steel piece riding in the retainer.

The bushings I'm talking about are the two rings on the shifter pawl (i guess you'd call it) that goes up into the shifter rod itself. On each side of the roll pin there are bushings, those get squished flat over time and create a lot of play.

 

[1-ton]

No, mine didn't have a curved plastic one in that area, just a curved stamped steel piece riding in the retainer.

The bushings I'm talking about are the two rings on the shifter pawl (i guess you'd call it) that goes up into the shifter rod itself. On each side of the roll pin there are bushings, those get squished flat over time and create a lot of play.

The design must have changed a little on the SM465 over time. Mine had a curved plastic piece in the spring cap, which would dry-rot out and crack. Your steel one is a better design. Also, the roll pins and shift lever had no sort of bushing at all. The shift tower roll pins would just lock into the shift lever spring cap...metal-to-metal. I also remember my new shift lever was a solid piece of steel, which was squared off at the shift fork side, in order to fit squarely into the squared shift fork slots. My old shift lever had worn out into a rounded shape instead of a square shape.